I have the Nikon AF NIKKOR 16mm f/2.8 D Fisheye Autofocus Lens.
UV, A2 skylight warming, B2 tungsten [who uses that anymore, but it came with package from KEH, Y47 yellow, O56 orange, and R60 which I can also use with IR film.
I also just received from KEH the Tamron SP 150mm to 600mm f/5-6.3...
No 35mm or 6x6 negative will beat a 8"x10" negative, but the Zeiss optics will make a 16"x16" or 20"x20" that you would find acceptable with your standards.
I found them on KEH.com and eBay by searching for Nikon bayonet filters. They are about 15mm across.
https://www.keh.com/shop/nikon-bayonet-a2-b2-o56-orange-13-15-16mm-filter.html
https://www.keh.com/shop/nikon-bayonet-b2-82a-13-15-16mm-filter.html...
You could use PC lens. I have a Nikon fl2.8 28mm PC lens which is manual focus that I use in my Nikon AF cameras. On the other hand I do like your photograph which shows great detail at the bottom of the photograph -- well done.
I just ordered 8 15mm bayonet filters for the rear of the Nikon f/2.8 16mm AF Fisheye lens, but I do not have any good way to store and carry those filters. Any suggests or recommendations will be appreciated.
I think that a single page of a PrintFile slide holder sheet might work.
I just ordered 8 15mm bayonet filters for the rear of the Nikon f/2.8 16mm AF Fisheye ens, but I do not have any good way to store and carry those filters. Any suggests or recommendations will be appreciated.
I think that a single page of a PrintFile slide holder sheet might work.
The so called one third rule has nothing to do with eye dominance, but is guidance to tell new photographers not to put everything in the center. the article writer is probably desperate to earn some money so he or she is blathering on about something they know nothing about.
When I was shooting a lot of low light level or night photography I liked to use Tungsten or "Indoor" film. I found those films balanced well and had less color reciprocity failure than the daylight films.
The need to RTFM, where the 'F' means something different from friendly. When I sold cameras, I was told by the manager not to show the customer how to load film so that the buyer would have to take out the manual and read it at least one, hopefully more than once.
Formats can influence the composition. I prefer square to the 35mm rectangular which is a bit too wide. With 35mm I have to consider whether I cam compose with the whole form or plan on cropping later in the darkroom.
If the lens mount is compatible, the lenses will work. Nikon has kept its lens mount and many old lenses can be used [manual focus on the newer cameras]. The AF lenses can be used on the oldest cameras as manual focus if rabbit ears are added for compatibility.
Canon changed to a larger...
I have not sold anything for years. Probably because I am cautious about making photographic purchases, especially lenses. That does not explain dropping about $2,000 on lenses in the last week, but that I covered in the recent purchases thread.
I am left handed but because of the orientation of the eye cup I use my right eye with the Hasselblad. For 35mm Nikon SLR photography I use either eye and never think about it.
I think that these two wires can be soldered back in place. Use only rosin core solder. Take the time to learn to solder and to detect a cold joint [it looks dull gray, reheat it and the joint will be properly soldered/]
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