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I have stored Stock XTOL in StopLossBags® for over five years and never had a problem. It is most important, regardless of your storage method to get all the air out of the storage container.

I develop up to 5 or 6 rolls in stock XTOL increasing time as per the instructions and then add 5*70ml or 6*70ml respectively to turn it into replenished XTOL.

The shutter shaft is in the lens. I had one fail. It would sound like the exposure was take and I could advance the film but the shutter never opened.

I suspect that the shutter shaft is worn out. Once you have your problem resolved. My Hasselblad repairman recommends firing all lenses 10 to 15 times as 1 second every three months. I do mine on 1 January, 1 April, 1 July and 1 September. Welcome to APUG Photrio!!

Villagephotog nailed it. PE often advised against mixing partial batches for the same reason. All one has to do is put XTOL or any other developer in bottles or bags without air. I have stock XTOL that has been stored safely for years in StopLossBags®. www.stoplossbags.com

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We ran into the same thing, slowed way down so we could stop in the range that we could see. We still got there a bit later.

I did not post that ionization prevents freezing and the salts that the chemical contain are not NaCl and they will have different ionization constants and different freezing points. The details are covered in college level Chemistry 1 class. Reread my post.

Enjoy!

I wonder how that keeps happening.

Bracketing should be occasional not a life style.

I still take pinhole photographs, but I no longer post or participate in group or internet related activities.

Refix the film and use hypo neutralizer, then wash well. T-Max and Delta films need more fixing times than other films.

Get the meter recalibrated by a light meter professional, but by turning a screw yourself.

I have many Heliopan filters for may Hasselblads.

The chemicals are salts in some form and the salts ionize the water. Ionized water freezes at lower temperatures than 32°F or 0°C and boils at temperature higher than 212°F or 100°C, the exact change depends on the ionization constant. I hope that eases you mind.

Choices: Return it as not fully functional Have the light meter calibrated Do not shoot low ISO film Welcome to APUG Photrio!!

One of the best ways is a chart like this

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Still only one: 4"x5" Chromega Dichroic II 5D-XL

PhotoFlo is a surfactant that helps the film shed water while drying. There are several strengths of PhotoFlo so follow the instructions on the bottle. Welcome to APUG Photrio!!

Fog is for mood photographs and fog moving into or out of parts of the city or its bridges.

And now for a 400 ISO Tungsten film for night photography!

Go for a Peak Grain Focuser instead. You will be glad you did.

No it is smaller and lighter than the F100, F5 and F6, even much less than an RB67

I tripped over an upedged sidewalk and fell with a face plant on my Hasselblad 903 SWC with a filter and the lens hood. The bottom of the lens hood was abrated, but I did not do as well.

In that case, I want to be 30 lbs [~14 Kg] lighter and 50 years younger with all the physical and mental ramifications as long as we have a wishlist for the impossible. :angel:

Let me be the first ... Welcome to APUG Photrio!!