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Apparently Quality Control was on vacation when your camera was built. Not something Leitz should be proud of. Maybe they din know about the problem, but they should have since Din 27 is ISO 400.

My darkroom is not completely dark, but dark enough so that the direct line of light does not cause a problem. I still use a large changing bag for loading film into a tank or drum because I do not believe the room is dark enough during the day and because if I drop something in the bag it...

If it is the only enlarger you have, see what practical modification you can make that would make it better for you. Welcome to APUG Photrio!!

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!

Color Black & white Infrared ...

One thing to do outside is to meter the subject only or meter without the sky. The sky will fall were it should. Try this and see how it works for you, I have used it for sixty years.

Yes and some of the filters vary from the filter factors I posted, but usually not much. As @MattKing alluded taking meter readings through the filters is a fool's errand.

I stored all the Anscochrome boxes in the trash. I have to go back and take a look.

And pro shops should love to show others in store how many people are wearing their shoes. :D

The snow and melted and refroze many times of several days so it was very hard, shiny and of course very slippery. The lens hood cost $8.53 and the shipping was $9.75. Since I was a long time skier, I knew how to fall, but getting back up twisted one knee. I purchased a telescoping walking...

In your case you might be better off using 1:1 times.

When HIE was discontinued I bought two 36 exposure rolls. Someone on APUG recommended that I should shoot both rolls the full range of 12 f/stops at exposure from 1 second to 1/1000 second with a filter and without the filter of one subject and then I would know everything about the film...

I will send the bill tomorrow morning.

Contact Corning Glass Works and filter.find.

I agree. That is why I did not getting to that in post #14.

I choose XTOL because of the trade off of sharpness, tonality and grain.

That is all I used from 1966 to 2004.

While the 100mm is a much sharper lens than the 80mm, you captured my feelings in the Bolded section, but other feel the second set I listed is better for them.

Close the heating vent in the darkroom.

Replacing a lens hood that made an escape when I fell on slick ice at the south rim of the Grand Canyon.

Not necessarily. If I think more shadow detail is useful I will make a Zone System adjustment. I am not a fan of showing every bit of shadow detail that is technically possible. My initial post was how I use the filter factor for each of the different filters. The rest is up to the user.

If I am carrying 35mm cameras instead of my Hasselblad, I have a Tameron 28mm to 300mm lens which covers that prospect. I just have not found carrying the 250mm lens for the Hasselblad worth the extra volume and weight.

It is the dark side of the planet. Didn't they teach you that in school? They also always stand on their heads to be right side up.

You are just wasting your time and money. What is out there is good as it is.

I avoid the problem of needing multiple developments in a roll by shooting at box speed or using only the exposure portion of the Zone System. With the modern films there is not need to N+1, N-1, N+2 ... development.

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!

Then throw out all standards! Why use f/stops? Why time development? If one uses the standards, problems can be more quickly corrected. Separately standards help assure that everything works as it is supposed to. Would you use cameras that 1/100 second is 1/72 second, a second camera the...

I buy the 1 liter bags. There are other sizes but I never looked at those.

My point was to calibrate to a calibrated source not to a meter that may be off or nonlinear. Calibration to a standard source eliminates the errors and can correct nonlinearity. After all the money spent on the equipment, why would one just use a randomly uncalibrated standard?