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How do you reach the conclusion your cameras need new parts? I have repaired FE cameras and when the auto system fails, it is often bad contact on the timing switches around the mirror box. In other words, an electrical problem. The Nikon EL uses a similar system, it's just harder to disassemble.

Sounds more difficult than programming a microcontroller with a built-in A/D converter to measure light from a sensor and actuate an electromagnet with the correct timing. Which is what would be needed to replace an hypotetical completely-dead electronic auto-exposure camera circuit made of...

You wrote: A gear or special cam can be made by someone with a hunk of brass and a file. I indicated you need a lathe and other tools... And I also remarked that even then it's possible that the piece will not have the required hardness (i.e. for advance gears) or precision (i.e. for 2nd...

Me too. That's why i happily switched from RB67 system to the Bronica ETR system. Love those electronic shutters, they work just fine.

For a camera? A gear? That will work just fine? No, you can't.

In my own experience (as a camera repairman), for cameras of known reliable electronics (like an AE-1P) it's very rare to see an IC fail. To fail it needs to receive a strong electrical discharge from the outside or another insult like overvoltage, wrong polarity, etc. When they do fail on their...

Disagree. When a mechanical piece like a gear or special cam breaks, it makes it worthless too. And then, what is your chance to replace it without a spare camera? Better than the same chance if it's an electronic part? I don't think so. You seem to think 3D printing is some magical thing. It...

This is not correct. Many cameras have "simple" mechanisms because of cost-cutting concerns, and they will not necessarily be more reliable. Many times you can make a more reliable mechanism by ADDING more parts such as ball bearing races on rotating axis, etc. A camera like a Canon F-1 has many...

Shhh... hush hush and put your flame suit on. They will kill you. You are correct, completely correct. Except for electronic cameras with known fragile electronics like the early ones -- Pentax Electro-Spotmatic, or even things like the Nikon EM... a nice camera but the electronics seems to be...

"Smallest fully mechanical rangefinder"

Check out ebay prices for this lens (& other FD lenses). They are getting silly high.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH 10/10

When you see objective, controlled tests between Panatomic-X and TMX, or between Tri-X and TMY, you see the T-grain films being completely superior in most measures. Everything else is nostalgia or personal preference. Of course everybody has his/her right to prefer a certain look. I like...

The things I read... Fortunately Ron Mowrey can't read such kind of things. Oh, Ron, how time passes and you are sorely missed.

You use too many words to write "Nikon F"

Obvious question but... Have you made sure you are following the instructions? That is, cock the lens diaphragm by moving the lever on the lens mount; make sure the "stop down preview" aperture ring is set to max aperture (f1.8)... As for your question, yes, these mechanisms are troublesome...

Hello, I saw the title "The Zenzanon Lens Saga, Part 1, Why did Nikon REALLY stop making lenses for Bronica?" and immediately clicked. This is something i always wanted to know. But sadly the article was rather short on info and I feel mr. Jason hasn't really done his research homework. On...

In my opinion, no. Definitlely not. Great full-frame lenses might test as mediocre om APS cameras. Or, mediocre full-frame lenses can test great on APS cameras by virtue of great central definition (!)

I disagree. There were many pre-AI that weren't carried over to AI. That is, that the formula was changed. Some examples: 20mm f3.5 (or f4), 28mm f3.5, 50mm f1.4, 135/2.8, 135/3.5, 200/4. They're all different optical designs (yes, the 28/3.5 is a new computation( Good, good, they're garbage...

To add something to this very fine list; The AI-S version of the 50/1.8 was rather cheaply made compared to other AI and AI-S lenses. So the Series E is a cheapened-down version of a cheapened-down lens. Still they are very good lenses, no complaints.

Exactly. For me, this is the most important part of all the announcement.

What? No studio flash? The PC connector is there for a reason...

You have a very fine sense of humor...

I just repaired my Olympus Pen D (32mm f1.9 lens) Surprisingly a broken spring is all what it took to completely jam the camera shutter. Now i'm taking my first roll. The selenium meter is still accurate and works fine. The shutter is very smooth; i'm liking the experience.

It used to be the same film. This was widely known.

But what about Lomography? Some of its color film used to be /is kodak. And Lady Gray 400 was TMAX 400 in disguise. Arguably TMY is top-line... but well, granted: it's not color.

This is not true. Pre-AI nikkors will simply not mount in many,. many Nikon bodies. They will only mount on pro Nikon cameras, or the FM/FE, or cameras prior to 1977. G-series Nikkors are unusable on almost all manual film bodies: The diaphragm will stay at the narrowest value.

The factory manuals are widely available on the net. You can request me any via PM and i'll give you a link.

Neither of these cameras are able to give you ANY kind of error code save for perhaps the T90. So your internet search brought up some tales or stories that can be readily dismissed. You should take a second look at the things you are reading on the internet. "High failure rate with shutters"...

Yes, that was just an impression. Minolta makes great cameras, even though I own none simply because I already spent enough money with Canon FD, Canon EF, Nikon, Pentax M42, Pentax K, Pentax 6x7 and Bronica ETR lenses (!!)