To each its own. Decades ago i had a Canon AE-1 and my friend had a Minolta X700. I found the X700 "plasticky" compared to my AE-1 which I felt was better made and sounded nicer. The X700 of course had a much brighter viewfinder, which I appreciated.
Note that the camera has a metal body. It's only the top and bottom that are plastic (plus the grip and battery door).
Inside, it's mostly metal, save for some nylon parts.
The F-1 cameras (all of them) are much better made than the A-series cameras (all of them), and yes, they're on a different class altogether.
Though, I like how the A-1 handled really. Nice machine which I used for making money as a photographer decades ago.
Sorry but this is just Fear, Uncertainty and Doubt. Electronics can be made as reliable as an engineer wants them to be. The elecronics inside a camera like the New F1, for example, are ultra reliable and back on an internet forum of camera repairmen one of them pointed out that in many many...
1. The cheapest FD lens, the Canon New FD 50/1.8 indistinguishable from a Leica Summicron-M 50mm f/2 (note, M, which arguably has more potential for image quality due to shorter flange-film distance.) once aperture is closed down a little bit...
The A-1's electronics are very durable and resilient. But any electronic camera needs periodic manteinance so the inside switches get cleaned. Otherwise you get malfunctions.
The New F1 is mostly a mechanical camera. For speeds B, 90, 125, 250, 500, 1000, and 2000, it is a fully mechanical camera with a lightmeter, not more.
As for the viewfinder, i'd say the New F1 has the most remarkable viewfinder i've seen on a japanese camera (although i haven't seen the one...
If you have many FD lenses and want a camera to create images, you should opt for the F-1.
If you're a camera collector and want to appreciate a beautifully built machine, opt for the Leicaflex. Not that the F-1 isn't beautifully built -- it is.
As for lens quality, if you really are...
You need, more or less:
- clear base
- emulsion able to keep up with high temperatures without reticulation
- ability to reach high Dmax
and maybe other qualities as well.
I'm going to try bw reversal pretty soon so using a film that works really good with reversal is very important for me. Currently the most specialized film for this application is Fomapan R100 which isn't available in 120. You can reverse almost any B/W film but that doesn't mean all will look...
"FD" stands for "Fairly Decent"
In truth, nobody knows.
FD are lenses for hte FD lens mount. The EOS cameras use EF lenses, for the EF mount, completely different. You want an EF-mount lens.
Interesting!!
Perhaps you already know this, but you can do actual reversal development using a high contrast b/w developer as first developer, light re-exposure,and C41 kit chemistry. We have a thread on that.
I own the following:
PC-Nikkor 28/3.5
PC-Nikkor 35/2.8 late version
PC-Nikkor 35/3.5, the first PC lens ever!
Canon Tilt Shift 35/2.8 (for FD mount)
I trust in the Big Four (Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Minolta) and in particular their film cameras, so given your choice i'd pick the Nikkor. As for my...
I understand, however, the F-1 winds the film in the "natural" direction and this makes it really easy to load. It's the easiest 35mm camera to load I own; setting aside more modern auto-everything machines like the T70.
What would be an update on 4LR44 batteries? four LR44 cells? that would...
But the New F-1 already has AE, and the 4LR44 battery is rather common... I agree the motordrive could use downsizing and lithium batteries, though.
It already exists, it's the Canon F-1.
This is a genius idea, really. If the backing is opaque enough, it would be great. And then the film would need to be a bit wider. Cine camera "daylight spools" don't use paper leaders as far as I know, and they have worked fine for decades. So maybe you don't even need remjet backing on all the...
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