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Dear, respected north-american sir, welcome to how the rest of the world buys their stuff. DHL is very quick and reliable, it should be a matter of days, not months. I regularly buy stuff from Japan using DHL and FedEx. (A horrible experience is really buying from the USA using USPS, where the...

Exactly, my fellow Pentaxian. The timing is excellent right now. Four years ago we didn't have the ridiculous pricing from Fujidak nor the shortages on common consumer 135 film. The time is right for Adox to release their film and the pricing also seems to be more or less ok.

Yes, a C330 is like your Rolleicord but with... - a proper shutter button - much bigger and much heavier - much better focusing screen - interchangeable lenses - quicker film loading

Hi, I've owned many mamiya TLRs and most of the lenses, so i'll give my two cents here: - The 135mm and 105mm lenses are very beautiful in rendering but they require to protrude very far away from the body, making handling or ergonomics a bit uncomfortable, particularly the 135mm. The C33x...

Nice intro!! The rest... well i don't like watching YT photography video bloggers. Photrio gives me better quality information and at a far higher speed.

Interesting. On the plus side (no pun intended), this might mean that Pan F+ will have a very long shelf life!!

From one of the links, in case you haven't read, some key data. Emphasis (bold) mine. "We have already reached this point once, in cooperation with another company. However, that facility went bankrupt, leaving us only with the first batch of color material. Now, ADOX is ready to start R&D...

This is a turning point in the history of photography industry. Finally, the Kodak-Fuji duopolio is broken. Fantastic news, time to open up the champagne!!

Let me help because I know the ME/ME-s/MG/Program-A rather well. Good news, it has the original battery cover in place. You need to clean out that contact throroughly, don't be afraid to scratch it with a screwdriver or with sandpaper. If the battery cover can't be removed, don't worry, just...

You are correct, and thanks @AgX for clarification. Since i don't service the A-1, i was oblivious to that detail. The technician would have to disassemble the camera top (without damaging it -- something that requires dedication on this camera model) and very, very carefully, try to remove the...

Yes, this is my point. Thanks Matt.

Yes, sorry...

The fungus: Just clean it, you are looking at it. Get a q-tip or something similar and clean it. As for the rewind shaft, i'd leave it alone. Beneath the ISO dial there are circuits that could be damaged if you force the shaft for correcting it.

My limited and simple empirical experience with Aviphot 200 (repackaged as "lomography xpro 200") was similar to your controlled tests: Compared to the best of Kodak/Fuji E6 films it was grainier and with less detail, plus colors were a bit weird.

+1 Thanks for this clarification.

Thanks for this clarification, But note that, as you have mentioned (overlap), the density of grains in a given area will contribute to tonality quality. A bigger negative will require less magnification and for practical purposes, will be equivalent as increasing the density of grains in a...

I recall shooting a Vericolor 160 film that was about 25 years expired, and seemingly 10 of those years were at room temp. I had to shoot it at EI 25 to get good densities. The color was acceptable. I see the color in those Silverra films being just ok, not amazing. There's also the possiblitiy...

Yes, this is a new technology called Silverra Universal Color Keying, more widely known by its acronym It is really embarrasing, to be honest.

Grain is always dark, there is no grain gradations. It is the size and density of the grains on an area the ones that make the gradations. Thus, for larger magnifications, a larger negative will give better gradations... Just print the same shot from 35mm and from 6x7 at the same final print...

Folders often have a very hard time keeping the film flat and the lens perfectly parallel to the film. Better choose a 6x4.5 vintage SLR, and it will kick out the pants of 35mm.

I have, or have had... 20/3.5 UD : A very good lens, kept it. 28/3.5 H: It has strong vignetting, corners get very sharp at f11 but before that it's a "center very sharp, corners ok" kind of lens. High contrast, low distortion, nice sunstars, good flare resistance. 28/2.0 N: It's a cult lens...

I will never part ways with my F-1 cameras!! BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA

All Canon FD 35mm lenses are great and i think i've owned almost all of them: fl 35/2.5, fd 35/2 chrome nose, fd 35/3.5 first version, fd 35/3.5 late version, 35/2.8 FDn, 35/2.8 tilt-shift. Yes the 35/3.5 FD SC, particularly the latest version (recognized by the beveled rear element) is...

Can somebody give me a brief explanation of what's Omnar and what are they doing? The blog only says that "Omnar is the Spice Girls if camera lenses. "

Interesting, the one on the Pentax ME opens clockwise.

Keep quiet and buy that gear while the prices are low!

The blue dot only means an upgraded internal shutter design. Nothing else. Coatings are simple on most of those Mamiya lenses except maybe the 105 D and DS and perhaps the late late late late 80mm f2.8. I would be much more worried about the physical condition of the lens than about any silly...

+1 I opened the link, the first two paragraphs were enough for me, after reading of course your and others' comments.

Wow, this is genius!!!

You mean the FRE? Damn Nikon, i hate their FREs. They can't make a reliable variable resistor. They should learn from Canon and Pentax. But then, this is an electrical issue, not really electronic. That is probably purely electrical. Timing relies on the timing switches and switches do...