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Motion Picture Film Used As Stills. Post Results Here.

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I've used Double-X, liked it enough I bought a 100 foot roll of 5222 (still working on getting or building a 400 foot bulk loader).
Donald, I've just successfully split 400ft into 100ft lengths with only a rudimentary set-up. I figured I wasn't going to do this again very often, if ever, so not worth building a fancy jig. I fixed two bolts vertically into an old enlarger baseboard from underneath, one to pop the empty 100ft core over, and the other (with a plastic biro tube loosely over it to prevent scratches) as a stop to indicate when the daughter reel was fat enough. I laid the parent reel flat alongside these, and let it revolve around the index finger of my left hand. I turned the 100ft core by inserting a square rod (such as you can find in a door handle) and twisting it. It is very well-behaved film, and doesn't fling itself all over the place in coils.
 
Thanks! 320 ISO, after the usual testing rigmarole - so this suits my lens, metering style and darkroom practice but of course may not suit everyone/anyone else.

I found the stock to be a little finnicky. When it works it works great.
 
From online reviews, I expected highlights to run away easily. Hence I took a lot of shots into the sun. I really like the stuff.

It works well with half-frame I've found. Then again, MP film is generally shot as half frame if shooting a movie.
 
Around 200 metered by eye. D-76 1:1 10min. What developer and times do you use?

You might have gathered from other threads that I’m a two bath guy, have been for decades. Seemed conceptually perfect for a film that was reputed to have runaway highlights, but I’m not the first to think that. So I used Barry Thornton’s two bath formula, 4 minutes in each bath at 22deg C.
 
MP film is generally shot as half frame if shooting a movie.

If not smaller than that. Some formats go as little as two perfs, which comes out to about 8.5x24 mm (this is what the Lomokino camera and viewer use, but it's also a legit wide screen format, as I understand it).
 
You might have gathered from other threads that I’m a two bath guy, have been for decades. Seemed conceptually perfect for a film that was reputed to have runaway highlights, but I’m not the first to think that. So I used Barry Thornton’s two bath formula, 4 minutes in each bath at 22deg C.

Oh yes. Your results show the extra effort put into it.

If not smaller than that. Some formats go as little as two perfs, which comes out to about 8.5x24 mm (this is what the Lomokino camera and viewer use, but it's also a legit wide screen format, as I understand it).

I found that color MP film also looks great in half-frame. And in 110 carts or 16mm cameras. The grain structure or whatever it is, has a pleasing look.

Fuji Eterna 400T, Minolta 7000i. This film surprised me as to how nice it looked. I don't think I can get hold of anymore. It's really nice stuff.

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Elan II, 70-200L 2.8 II, 250D
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This film doesn't like under exposure. My stock might be getting old too, it's stored in the fridge but who knows. Next summer I'm going to expose it at 200 or lower. The path photo is my favorite of the batch.
 
Elan II, 70-200L 2.8 II, 250D
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This film doesn't like under exposure. My stock might be getting old too, it's stored in the fridge but who knows. Next summer I'm going to expose it at 200 or lower. The path photo is my favorite of the batch.

The path photo with its burst of color is definitely quite nice, but I really like the flag on the crane with its subdued colors. Something about it just speaks to me I suppose. Very nice work.
 
The path photo with its burst of color is definitely quite nice, but I really like the flag on the crane with its subdued colors. Something about it just speaks to me I suppose. Very nice work.

Thanks.

Taken on a rainy misty day from the observation deck of an office building.
 
Olympus Pen F, Vision3 250D

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I really like this camera, but scanning 75 fames. Oof. Get's to be a pain.
 
More nice pics.

Need a scanner that can continuously feed roll film.
 
Mine has been bulletproof. I think if you don't want to camera scan or spend tons of money on a scanner but still have high quality and automation it is the best.

It's a shame because I like the thing. I just spent too much time and money getting it to work consistently.

Promaster 2500 PK Super converted to M42, Kodak Plus-X cine. Shot at ISO 100 and developed 9min D-76 1+1. I think I need to rate it lower.


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I've shot a ton of Eastman XX 5222. I especially like it in my little Minox. It is the best film to slit down that I've tried. A lot of films chip and flake but the 5222 just goes right through the slitter. Probably because that is what it is designed to do. I develop the Minox shot film in Rodinal. What can I say? I am a rebel. No cause either. Lol.

I've shot 5222 up to EI 640 in 35mm cameras. That is pushing it though. And I don't mean pushing, I mean at it's limit. I never found 5222 to have run away highlights. I've developed it in all kinds of developers. Looks good in pretty much anything. With staining developers it can hold any highlight, even the sun.

5222 shot at 640. Pretty much it's limit I think, and that is being generous, at least in Rodinal. Neg scan.


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What problems did you have? I have to clean mine every now and then and I lube it too. I did have to replace the lens a few years ago too. Other than that it has been reliable.

It kind of bottoms out and won't respond to the program for a while. Then it randomly decides to work again for a few rolls.

I've found it works great for color but DSLR scanning looks nicer with b&w.
 
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