Why does the Honeywell Tilt-a-mite flash have a capacitor?

[AgX]

could the sync (the delay, when you depress the shutter button, between the firing of the flash and the actual opening of the shutter - for example about 20 ms for M3 bulbs, allowing the burning bulb to reach peak power before the picture is taken) be affected when using just the battery without a capacitor?

I am puzzled by your results, as the switching characteristics of the shutter should not be affected by shutter speed setting.
(To my understanding. Maybe though in your case the switching time is proportional to the shutter speed.)

However, the internal resistance of a batterie is greater than that of a capacitator. In case the sync switch for whatever reason closes only for a very short time, the battery in that time might not deliver enough energy to heat up that wire in the bulb.

 

[Ruben Bensimon]

I am puzzled by your results, as the switching characteristics of the shutter should not be affected by shutter speed setting.
(To my understanding. Maybe though in your case the switching time is proportional to the shutter speed.)

However, the internal resistance of a batterie is greater than that of a capacitator. In case the sync switch for whatever reason closes only for a very short time, the battery in that time might not deliver enough energy to heat up that wire in the bulb.

Thanks. Could it be linked to the camera itself? I will today test with bulbs and a Nikon F camera (you can set the sync dial) as opposed to Nikon FE, and will let you know

 

[AgX]

It must be camera related.
Otherwise the flash in all cases would either be triggered or not

 

[Ruben Bensimon]

It must be camera related.
Otherwise the flash in all cases would either be triggered or not

It must be camera related.
Otherwise the flash in all cases would either be triggered or not

FANTASTIC! You ARE right, it was camera related. I just tested with bulbs on my Nikon F camera, with the sync dial set to the green dot (enables flash sync at all speeds including 1000) and my combo does fire the bulbs at 1000, 500 and anything lower. (The question is why does it fire on the Nikon FE up to and including 250, when it says in the FE's original manual that flash sync for bulbs is only 1/30s or slower (look here on page 37 http://www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikon_fe.pdf ), but that's a side question)
The main point is: we now know that a Tilt A Mite flashgun can work at all speeds with a common 3volt CR123 battery installed in the place of the capacitor. No more depending on hard to find and expensive 15volt Eveready 504 batteries. Ah of course the CR123 battery will have to be replaced more often than in the original combination, but CR123s can be found on the net for as cheap as $3.00
The only thing to remember of course is to check what's the maximum speed you may dial with the type of bulb you're using (for example I've got some Sylvania FP26 and GE #6 that can sync up to 1/1000s on my Nikon F, while M2 and M3 bulbs cannot be used at more than 1/125s)
Hope my little experiment can help someone whose Tilt A Mite capacitor went dead, there's always a solution.
Thank you AgX for your help
Cheers you guys

 

[BrianShaw]

“(The question is why does it fire on the Nikon FE up to and including 250, when it says in the FE's original manual that flash sync for bulbs is only 1/30s or slower (look here on page 37 http://www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikon_fe.pdf ), but that's a side question)”

The mechanical ability provided by the camera manufacturer is not an indication of future success.

BTW, your experiment is useful to me. I’ve been avoiding that flash holder because I was unaware of this work-around. Thanks!

 

[AgX]

Brian, the early and later the cheapish bulb flashes had no capacitator. Thus basically it works without one.

 

[hsandler]

FANTASTIC! You ARE right, it was camera related. I just tested with bulbs on my Nikon F camera, with the sync dial set to the green dot (enables flash sync at all speeds including 1000) and my combo does fire the bulbs at 1000, 500 and anything lower. (The question is why does it fire on the Nikon FE up to and including 250, when it says in the FE's original manual that flash sync for bulbs is only 1/30s or slower (look here on page 37 http://www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikon_fe.pdf ), but that's a side question)
The main point is: we now know that a Tilt A Mite flashgun can work at all speeds with a common 3volt CR123 battery installed in the place of the capacitor. No more depending on hard to find and expensive 15volt Eveready 504 batteries. Ah of course the CR123 battery will have to be replaced more often than in the original combination, but CR123s can be found on the net for as cheap as $3.00
The only thing to remember of course is to check what's the maximum speed you may dial with the type of bulb you're using (for example I've got some Sylvania FP26 and GE #6 that can sync up to 1/1000s on my Nikon F, while M2 and M3 bulbs cannot be used at more than 1/125s)
Hope my little experiment can help someone whose Tilt A Mite capacitor went dead, there's always a solution.
Thank you AgX for your help
Cheers you guys

A useful experiment, thanks. I have a Tilt-a-mite which came with a dead capacitor, but I soldered a modern electrolytic across the capacitor terminals and bought a 15V battery from B&H. As to why the FE fires at more than 1/30s but the manual says sync only up to 1/30s, I think the FE does not have a real M-sync flash with a delay for bulbs. On some cameras after the advent of electronic flash, they cheaped out and removed the delay mechanism. Such shutters inherently only have X sync but they say they can do flashbulbs up to 1/30s because since the shutter is staying open about 33ms, it's still open for awhile after the flash bulb reaches its peak brightness. As to why the FE does not fire the flash above 1/250s, probably the current from the lithium battery you have is not as high as that from, say, an alkaline battery or a charged capacitor at the same voltage, due to the battery's internal resistance. So it may not deliver enough energy in 1/250s to ignite the bulb. By the way, note that the guide number of flash bulbs is shutter-speed dependent. Since the bulb burns for about 40-50ms, at short shutter speeds, even with M sync shutters that don't open until the bulb is at its peak, you are missing out on a lot of the energy as the shutter closes before the bulb burns out. So you would generally not want to use a bulb at 1/250s anyway, even if your focal plane shutter had a sync speed that high.

Enjoy your flash. I find the burning lacquer smell and the sizzle sound rather addictive...

 

[DWThomas]

Even though it fires, have you verified that the flash actually syncs with the shutter;e.g., taken pictures successfully? The slug of current required when operating at that low voltage may or may not be within the capability of the CR123s. I suppose since those were used in point and shoot cameras with a motorized lens mechanism, they may be OK. (I guess I don't have enough flashbulbs left in the "collection" to lose too much sleep over it, but I'm curious.)

 

[BrianShaw]

Brian, the early and later the cheapish bulb flashes had no capacitator. Thus basically it works without one.

Thanks! Clearly understood. I use Graflite regularly with just 2 or 3 cells. But never experimented with any that included capacitor because the originally-specified batteries aren’t commonly available... and never did the research on alternatives myself. So I’m grateful that someone could teach me something new!

 

[Ruben Bensimon]

“(The question is why does it fire on the Nikon FE up to and including 250, when it says in the FE's original manual that flash sync for bulbs is only 1/30s or slower (look here on page 37 http://www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikon_fe.pdf ), but that's a side question)”

The mechanical ability provided by the camera manufacturer is not an indication of future success.

BTW, your experiment is useful to me. I’ve been avoiding that flash holder because I was unaware of this work-around. Thanks!

You're welcome. This whole thing started only last week, when my Walz Micro Flash for Kodak Brownie cameras (pictured here on the original booklet with a Brownie Starmatic) stopped working. This cute little B-C flash takes AG bulbs and has the same set-up as our Tilt A Mite: a 15v Eveready 504 battery next to a capacitor that looks exactly the same as the Honeywell's. I said: hold on here, my Brownie Starflash and Starmite only use 2 AA 1.5v, no capacitor, so what do I need the capacitor for? I put a CR123 in the Walz flash, it worked, then I did the same with the Honeywell, works again!
Glad I could help,
Cheers

 

[Ruben Bensimon]

A useful experiment, thanks. I have a Tilt-a-mite which came with a dead capacitor, but I soldered a modern electrolytic across the capacitor terminals and bought a 15V battery from B&H. As to why the FE fires at more than 1/30s but the manual says sync only up to 1/30s, I think the FE does not have a real M-sync flash with a delay for bulbs. On some cameras after the advent of electronic flash, they cheaped out and removed the delay mechanism. Such shutters inherently only have X sync but they say they can do flashbulbs up to 1/30s because since the shutter is staying open about 33ms, it's still open for awhile after the flash bulb reaches its peak brightness. As to why the FE does not fire the flash above 1/250s, probably the current from the lithium battery you have is not as high as that from, say, an alkaline battery or a charged capacitor at the same voltage, due to the battery's internal resistance. So it may not deliver enough energy in 1/250s to ignite the bulb. By the way, note that the guide number of flash bulbs is shutter-speed dependent. Since the bulb burns for about 40-50ms, at short shutter speeds, even with M sync shutters that don't open until the bulb is at its peak, you are missing out on a lot of the energy as the shutter closes before the bulb burns out. So you would generally not want to use a bulb at 1/250s anyway, even if your focal plane shutter had a sync speed that high.

Enjoy your flash. I find the burning lacquer smell and the sizzle sound rather addictive...

Thank you HSandler for all this info, very instructive indeed! BTW, just love that smell...

 

[Ruben Bensimon]

Even though it fires, have you verified that the flash actually syncs with the shutter;e.g., taken pictures successfully? The slug of current required when operating at that low voltage may or may not be within the capability of the CR123s. I suppose since those were used in point and shoot cameras with a motorized lens mechanism, they may be OK. (I guess I don't have enough flashbulbs left in the "collection" to lose too much sleep over it, but I'm curious.)

Dave, you're absolutely right, but I've only started all this few days ago. First I tested the Walz flash with an AG1 test bulb (not a real AG1 flashbulb, see picture, which is fine because Kodak Brownies only shoot at 1/60s, so you can still see the light glow), then at higher speeds with real bulbs on Nikon SLRs, and now the next step will be to test with film, at different speeds, with my Nikon F. I will do that whenever I find the time, and I'll let you know. BTW, the CR123 Panasonic alkaline battery I'm using is rated 3volt, 1400 mAh.
Cheers

 

[Ruben Bensimon]

Dave, you're absolutely right, but I've only started all this few days ago. First I tested the Walz flash with an AG1 test bulb (not a real AG1 flashbulb, see picture, which is fine because Kodak Brownies only shoot at 1/60s, so you can still see the light glow), then at higher speeds with real bulbs on Nikon SLRs, and now the next step will be to test with film, at different speeds, with my Nikon F. I will do that whenever I find the time, and I'll let you know. BTW, the CR123 Panasonic alkaline battery I'm using is rated 3volt, 1400 mAh.
Cheers
View attachment 227687

BTW Dave, look what's written on the box of Sylvania M3 bulbs I'm using for testing with film (in yellow under the charts): "Flash with dry cell batteries, 3 volts or more". Now these are M3 bulbs that can be fired at up to 1/500s according to the manufacturer's charts on the picture below. If there was a sync problem at 3 volts, I guess the manufacturer would have known. But I will film-test anyway and show you the results.
Cheers

 

[DWThomas]

BTW Dave, look what's written on the box of Sylvania M3 bulbs I'm using for testing with film (in yellow under the charts): "Flash with dry cell batteries, 3 volts or more". Now these are M3 bulbs that can be fired at up to 1/500s according to the manufacturer's charts on the picture below. If there was a sync problem at 3 volts, I guess the manufacturer would have known.

I know the bulbs will fire on 3 volts, the (non-capacitor) flashgun for my Argus C-3 uses 2 C cells in series to fire M5/25 bulbs, but C cells can supply a significant current (multiple amperes) for short bursts. It could also be possible that the later, smaller bulbs were able to take advantage of more precise manufacturing techniques to have more sensitive firing. Anyway, it all may be fine. The capacitor based guns were to allow using small lighter batteries that can't really supply much current, but the stored juice in the cap could deliver a short, heavy burst for ignition.

The "fired at up to 1/500" I don't believe is all that significant. For flashbulb M sync, the contact closes about 20 milliseconds ahead of the shutter opening. That timing likely holds regardless of shutter speed, so the bulb gets time to respond. My (likely misplaced) concern is that if the battery system was marginal, a slow ignition start might delay the peak of the flash output a few milliseconds which could be past the shutter opening at the shortest exposures. As it is, the exposure is unable to use all of the bulb's output on faster speeds because the "burn" time is far from instantaneous. Of course all the older shutters did that sync timing with some sort of mechanical magic, so none are likely "digital precision!"

The aforementioned Argus C-3, a circa 1957 sample, has X sync so, as in your chart, they tell you to shoot at 1/25 or longer exposure so the whole bulb firing can fit in.

Anyway, have fun!

 

[Ruben Bensimon]

I know the bulbs will fire on 3 volts, the (non-capacitor) flashgun for my Argus C-3 uses 2 C cells in series to fire M5/25 bulbs, but C cells can supply a significant current (multiple amperes) for short bursts. It could also be possible that the later, smaller bulbs were able to take advantage of more precise manufacturing techniques to have more sensitive firing. Anyway, it all may be fine. The capacitor based guns were to allow using small lighter batteries that can't really supply much current, but the stored juice in the cap could deliver a short, heavy burst for ignition.

The "fired at up to 1/500" I don't believe is all that significant. For flashbulb M sync, the contact closes about 20 milliseconds ahead of the shutter opening. That timing likely holds regardless of shutter speed, so the bulb gets time to respond. My (likely misplaced) concern is that if the battery system was marginal, a slow ignition start might delay the peak of the flash output a few milliseconds which could be past the shutter opening at the shortest exposures. As it is, the exposure is unable to use all of the bulb's output on faster speeds because the "burn" time is far from instantaneous. Of course all the older shutters did that sync timing with some sort of mechanical magic, so none are likely "digital precision!"

The aforementioned Argus C-3, a circa 1957 sample, has X sync so, as in your chart, they tell you to shoot at 1/25 or longer exposure so the whole bulb firing can fit in.

Anyway, have fun!

"My (likely misplaced) concern is that if the battery system was marginal, a slow ignition start might delay the peak of the flash output a few milliseconds which could be past the shutter opening at the shortest exposures"
I think you're right, we might have problems with a small 3v battery at high speeds, so to be on the safe side when using the 3v combo with a focal plane camera, better shoot at 1/60s max (the M3 chart above mentions up to 1/500s with M sync, but that's only for leaf shutters).
Anyway, here's the result of the film test:
Camera: Nikon F + 50mm 1/2
Film: Kodak ColorPlus 200
Bulbs: Sylvania M3
Pic #1: 1/60s at f/16
Pic #2: 1/125s at f/16
Pic #3: 1/250s at f/11
You can see Pic #3 is only partially exposed, that's because of the focal plane shutter, not the battery (the Nikon F sync chart gives a max speed of 1/125s for M bulbs).
Conclusion: this test it turns out was more about the limitations of focal plane shutters. If you really want to test the limits of using a 3 volt battery at high speeds, you must do it on a camera like the Yashica Mat 124G (M sync, up to 1/500s) or any camera with a leaf shutter.
Meanwhile, if your Tilt A Mite's capacitor is dead, you still have the 3 volt solution for speeds 1/60s or slower. When you have nothing, hey, you have nothing to lose.
Cheers

 

[Ruben Bensimon]

"My (likely misplaced) concern is that if the battery system was marginal, a slow ignition start might delay the peak of the flash output a few milliseconds which could be past the shutter opening at the shortest exposures"
I think you're right, we might have problems with a small 3v battery at high speeds, so to be on the safe side when using the 3v combo with a focal plane camera, better shoot at 1/60s max (the M3 chart above mentions up to 1/500s with M sync, but that's only for leaf shutters).
Anyway, here's the result of the film test:
Camera: Nikon F + 50mm 1/2
Film: Kodak ColorPlus 200
Bulbs: Sylvania M3
Pic #1: 1/60s at f/16
Pic #2: 1/125s at f/16
Pic #3: 1/250s at f/11
You can see Pic #3 is only partially exposed, that's because of the focal plane shutter, not the battery (the Nikon F sync chart gives a max speed of 1/125s for M bulbs).
Conclusion: this test it turns out was more about the limitations of focal plane shutters. If you really want to test the limits of using a 3 volt battery at high speeds, you must do it on a camera like the Yashica Mat 124G (M sync, up to 1/500s) or any camera with a leaf shutter.
Meanwhile, if your Tilt A Mite's capacitor is dead, you still have the 3 volt solution for speeds 1/60s or slower. When you have nothing, hey, you have nothing to lose.
Cheers View attachment 227762 View attachment 227763 View attachment 227764

I suspect a drop-in replacement capacitor falls between ultra-rare and non-existent. Since improved manufacturing processes over the intervening decades have typically shrunk the size of such capacitors, the trick is probably to buy an axial lead unit somewhat smaller physically and then do whatever has to be done to make an adapter to stick it in the Tilt-a-Mite. Places like Mouser and Digi-Key are where I would start a search. I would want a voltage rating more than 15 volts -- perhaps 18 to 25 -- to minimize potential (electrical) leakage. And someone upthread said the original is 400 uf, I suspect anything from around 270 to 500 would be a candidate.

Many axial lead units are actually an aluminum can with the negative lead spotwelded to the end of the can. Don't know what form factors may exist today, but with luck one might snip the negative lead flush and improvise some sort of button on the positive end to make it a drop-in replacement. Please note that reversing the capacitor polarity will ruin it. Trying to use a Tilt-a-Mite on a modern electronic camera is likely a bad idea also (open circuit voltage and firing current issues).

(Gad, the way the world is going there's probably a Facebook Tilt-a-Mite group where some entrepreneur offers replacements from his basement workshop!)

I own a Tilt-a-Mite, but can't feel any urge to start popping flashbulbs. Several years back when this topic came up the Eveready 504 15 volt batteries were still available from online specialty stores, although IIRC they were about a dollar per volt. I have the two C cell flashgun for my Argus C3 if I absolutely must zap a bulb!

"I would want a voltage rating more than 15 volts -- perhaps 18 to 25 -- to minimize potential (electrical) leakage. And someone upthread said the original is 400 uf, I suspect anything from around 270 to 500 would be a candidate"

I suspect a drop-in replacement capacitor falls between ultra-rare and non-existent. Since improved manufacturing processes over the intervening decades have typically shrunk the size of such capacitors, the trick is probably to buy an axial lead unit somewhat smaller physically and then do whatever has to be done to make an adapter to stick it in the Tilt-a-Mite. Places like Mouser and Digi-Key are where I would start a search. I would want a voltage rating more than 15 volts -- perhaps 18 to 25 -- to minimize potential (electrical) leakage. And someone upthread said the original is 400 uf, I suspect anything from around 270 to 500 would be a candidate.

Many axial lead units are actually an aluminum can with the negative lead spotwelded to the end of the can. Don't know what form factors may exist today, but with luck one might snip the negative lead flush and improvise some sort of button on the positive end to make it a drop-in replacement. Please note that reversing the capacitor polarity will ruin it. Trying to use a Tilt-a-Mite on a modern electronic camera is likely a bad idea also (open circuit voltage and firing current issues).

(Gad, the way the world is going there's probably a Facebook Tilt-a-Mite group where some entrepreneur offers replacements from his basement workshop!)

I own a Tilt-a-Mite, but can't feel any urge to start popping flashbulbs. Several years back when this topic came up the Eveready 504 15 volt batteries were still available from online specialty stores, although IIRC they were about a dollar per volt. I have the two C cell flashgun for my Argus C3 if I absolutely must zap a bulb!

""I would want a voltage rating more than 15 volts -- perhaps 18 to 25 -- to minimize potential (electrical) leakage. And someone upthread said the original is 400 uf, I suspect anything from around 270 to 500 would be a candidate"
Not a bad guess, Dave. I just looked at my Tilt-a-Mite 2 (same as it's older brother but has hot shoe + PC connections and takes flashcubes as well). Inside is written "Honeywell,1969". It takes the same 15 volt battery, but the capacitor is different: it's not removable, is about 1/2 the length and thinner, and it's written "18v - 150uF". Like you guessed, they put the voltage slightly higher. The surprise is the capacitance, much smaller than before. Ronnie Retro said up thread that his original capacitor measured 400uF, wonder why they wanted it that high if 150 uF is enough. Any idea?

 

[AgX]

I would want a voltage rating more than 15 volts -- perhaps 18 to 25 -- to minimize potential (electrical) leakage.

A higher voltage will not work against leakage, in theory it even makes it worse. However the higher the voltage the less the effect of contact resistance.

 

[DWThomas]

The surprise is the capacitance, much smaller than before. Ronnie Retro said up thread that his original capacitor measured 400uF, wonder why they wanted it that high if 150 uF is enough. Any idea?

Well, electrolytic capacitors are not particularly precision components; values could easily be +/- 20% -- or worse, especially years ago. The other consideration is the internal resistance may be as important as capacitance, as that limits the maximum current. As such, it's possible later caps had lower internal resistance due to manufacturing and/or technology improvements. (Note this is all armchair speculation here -- I've been retired since 2002 -- and did software for two decades leading up to that. )

 

[DWThomas]

A higher voltage will not work against leakage,

Umm -- I was speaking of capacitor voltage rating, not chosen operating voltage. Operating near or above the rated voltage, the leakage can rise exponentially and shorten the life of the capacitor (and the battery in the case at hand). Leakage also varies with temperature, so one needs to allow some cushion depending on anticipated operating environment.

 

[Ruben Bensimon]

Umm -- I was speaking of capacitor voltage rating, not chosen operating voltage. Operating near or above the rated voltage, the leakage can rise exponentially and shorten the life of the capacitor (and the battery in the case at hand). Leakage also varies with temperature, so one needs to allow some cushion depending on anticipated operating environment.

I found this on youtube, watch it from 0 min 59 sec. Apparently, the Tilt A Mite with it's original capacitor could work on a 3 volt battery instead of 15 volt ?

 

[AgX]

David, I read your voltage rating comment out of context, furthermore as non-native speaker some terms still I do not realize as fixed technical terms.

Ruben, a capacitor always can work at a voltage below its rating. Using a capacitator of higher rating does not harm the circuit design at all from the electrical point of view, though industrial penny counters may be offended.
The electrical energy stored in such capacitor, is made up by both, the actual voltage applied and the capacity of the capacitator. If I reduce the voltage I have the same time to use a capacitator of higher capacity (there is an interesting formula for it) to yield the same energy output.


In the case of a bulb flash though there is a minumum voltage dictated by the bulb (lamp). For our consideration we can compare it with a classic incandescant lamp. If the voltage is too low, we can ran it for as long as we want (think here of the capacity of the capacitor) and it will never glow.

Thus we need a voltage high enough to make it glow and and a capacity to make it glow sufficiently long enough to make the rest of the reaction start.

Question in our case is whether one can still use a battery of lower voltage (and even without having to change the capacitator).
One should be aware that flashes were designed with batteries in mind that were easily available. So the chosen voltage might be to some extend a result of this. This voltage is within quite a range if I look at my flashes, but then one should consider the bulbs too the flashes were intended for. With AG1 bulbs the lowest voltage of batteries was 6V (this was when special 6V flash-batteries were made).

Resumee:
One has to experiment...

 

[Ruben Bensimon]

David, I read your voltage rating comment out of context, furthermore as non-native speaker some terms still I do not realize as fixed technical terms.

Ruben, a capacitor always can work at a voltage below its rating. Using a capacitator of higher rating does not harm the circuit design at all from the electrical point of view, though industrial penny counters may be offended.
The electrical energy stored in such capacitor, is made up by both, the actual voltage applied and the capacity of the capacitator. If I reduce the voltage I have the same time to use a capacitator of higher capacity (there is an interesting formula for it) to yield the same energy output.


In the case of a bulb flash though there is a minumum voltage dictated by the bulb (lamp). For our consideration we can compare it with a classic incandescant lamp. If the voltage is too low, we can ran it for as long as we want (think here of the capacity of the capacitor) and it will never glow.

Thus we need a voltage high enough to make it glow and and a capacity to make it glow sufficiently long enough to make the rest of the reaction start.

Question in our case is whether one can still use a battery of lower voltage (and even without having to change the capacitator).
One should be aware that flashes were designed with batteries in mind that were easily available. So the chosen voltage might be to some extend a result of this. This voltage is within quite a range if I look at my flashes, but then one should consider the bulbs too the flashes were intended for. With AG1 bulbs the lowest voltage of batteries was 6V (this was when special 6V flash-batteries were made).

Resumee:
One has to experiment...

Thanks for this explanation, and I will experiment on a 15v capacitor with a 3v battery.
But first I want to complete my experiment without a capacitor, just a 3v battery, by trying it with film and a leaf shutter camera.
I'll keep you guys posted.
Cheers

 

[Ruben Bensimon]

Thanks for this explanation, and I will experiment on a 15v capacitor with a 3v battery.
But first I want to complete my experiment without a capacitor, just a 3v battery, by trying it with film and a leaf shutter camera.
I'll keep you guys posted.
Cheers

Well friends, the final test has spoken.
Here are the pictures.
Camera: Yashica Mat 124G
Flash: Tilt A Mite, no capacitor, 3 volt CR123 battery instead of capacitor
Film: Ilford Pan-F 50
Bulbs: Sylvania M3
Pic #1: 1/60s at f/11
Pic #2: 1/125s at f/8
Pic #3: 1/250s at f/5.6
Pic #4: 1/250s at f/8
Pic #5: 1/500s at f/5.6
Pic #6: 1/500s at f/8

Conclusion:
My little 3 volt combo syncs at all speeds (previous problems came from focal plane cameras), as already specified by the bulb manufacturer ("Flash with 3 volt or more", bottom of last pic attached, in yellow)
Recommandations:
Just follow Sylvania's instructions on the box of M3 bulbs (bottom of last pic attached, in yellow) which are:
1- with focal plane SLRs, 1/30s max
2- with leaf shutter cameras, M sync and any speed up to 1/500s

Thanks everyone for your input and guidance,
Cheers

 

[DWThomas]

Excellent! I do note the Duracell spec for the CR123 shows a nominal 0.5 amp current rating, which is a pretty good jolt. In a quick look I wasn't able to find a spec on the original 504 batteries -- they give capacity in mAh -- but no indication of current rating. I suspect, especially since the early ones were stacks of zinc-carbon cells, that it needed a capacitor to provide a half amp size slug. (I once had an Eveready battery manual, perhaps late 1960s vintage, but if I do still have it, it's "somewhere it's safe." )

Seeing the corrugated cardboard flashbulb cartons in your pictures, I now understand your interest in this exercise. What I have left from the good old days is more like a few sample bulbs.

 

[Ruben Bensimon]

Excellent! I do note the Duracell spec for the CR123 shows a nominal 0.5 amp current rating, which is a pretty good jolt. In a quick look I wasn't able to find a spec on the original 504 batteries -- they give capacity in mAh -- but no indication of current rating. I suspect, especially since the early ones were stacks of zinc-carbon cells, that it needed a capacitor to provide a half amp size slug. (I once had an Eveready battery manual, perhaps late 1960s vintage, but if I do still have it, it's "somewhere it's safe." )

Seeing the corrugated cardboard flashbulb cartons in your pictures, I now understand your interest in this exercise. What I have left from the good old days is more like a few sample bulbs.

Dave, I have a large amount of bulbs of many types and brands, so why not use them.
I feel pretty good about this experiment, it went according to my first intuitions, hope it will allow people to use their old flash again.
This whole thread started years ago with the title-question "Why does the Honeywell Tilt-a-mite flash have a capacitor?".
Well, now you know you don't really need one.
Cheers