What's your latest new old camera ? (Part 2)

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RLangham

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My second Speed Graphic: a prewar (I think) Anniversary 4x5". I don't have any pictures of it yet but it's in great shape and miraculously both shutters fire with decent apparent accuracy.
 

Roger Thoms

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Kodak 8A, project camera!!! I bought it online and am picking it up tomorrow. Hope there aren’t to many surprises with this one.

Roger
 

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awty

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picked up an old polaroid copy camera minus a few bits. Rear element has some stratches, but otherwise pretty good, can get up really close.
Not sure whether to use it for parts or use it as is.
heavy bugger.
20200808_091606.jpg 20200808_091540.jpg 20200808_091513.jpg
 

Roger Thoms

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What a monster! Hope you dont have catch a bus carrying that beast.

Fortunately I have a full size pickup truck with a camper shell on it, perfect for transporting 11x14 studio cameras. I got the camera home on Tuesday, everything looks pretty good. The stand is in nice shape and is only missing the small bracket for the tilt adjustment and the two diamond caps for the top of the posts. The missing bracket will be easy to fabricate and ordered two cast iron caps that I'm hoping will work on the posts. The camera is in fair shape and will get new bellow and also needs the focus lock knob. I have a wood lathe so the knob should be easy and I’ll order new bellows from Custom Bellows. The real nice thing is that the camera came with an 11x14, 8x10, and 5x7 back. And yes it’s a monster.

The Polaroid copy camera is cool, just because it looks so old. To bad your not closer to San Francisco, I could set you up with a modern version complete with a stand.

Roger
 
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awty

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Fortunately I have a full size pickup truck with a camper shell on it, perfect for transporting 11x14 studio cameras. I got the camera home on Tuesday, everything looks pretty good. The stand is in nice shape and is only missing the small bracket for the tilt adjustment and the two diamond caps for the top of the posts. The missing bracket will be easy to fabricate and ordered two cast iron caps that I'm hoping will work on the posts. The camera is in fair shape and will get new bellow and also needs the focus lock knob. I have a wood lathe so the knob should be easy and I’ll order new bellows from Custom Bellows. The real nice thing is that the camera came with an 11x14, 8x10, and 5x7 back. And yes it’s a monster.

The Polaroid copy camera is cool, just because it looks so old. To bad your not closer to San Francisco, I could set you up with a modern version complete with a stand.

Roger
Great, hope you can post some pictures of your refurbishment, be fantastic to see it working again.
 

markjwyatt

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Dennis S

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Just received a Canon EOS 3 from KEH and I want to thank them for the very secure shipping with the camera in a plastic bag and wrapped in many layers of bubble wrap. Very good shipping as no damage ever could happen to it besides if it was it would have to have been done deliberately. A lot of people just throw the item in a box with bubble wrap on the top without protection for the bottom. Kudoos KEH will be recomending your shipping and handling practises.
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Sirius Glass

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Nikon N80 and Nikon AF f/2.8 20mm lens
 

Donald Qualls

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When it gets here, I'll be testing a new-to-me Welta Weltini -- 35mm RF folder. Pocketable, 50mm f/2.9 triplet, single-window RF with a reasonably large eyepiece (at least, it looks that way in the photos).
 

Máx Arnold

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My last new old camera has been a Halina Paulette Electric, from 1967. It has an FC Halinar f/2.8 lens. It needed repair, which I succesfully did, and I could use it for making paper negatives. Unfortunately, the exposure metering was triky, specially with photo paper, and the shutter stopped working properly after dozen of shots, so I've just decided to give up on it. After all, if the performance was good, the lens is too soft at f/2.8, and for softness I have my pinholes...
 

Jon Shumpert

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My latest is a Canon Canonet QL17 GIII. I have been thinking of getting one and found this one at a local antiques shop. I tried to test it at the mechanical shutter speeds because I didn't have a battery to test the auto function, and at first I thought it was damaged. It wouldn't fire the shutter or advance the film when set to any shutter speed. I was about to pass on it when I thought about what could be wrong. The self timer lever had been moved just a slight bit. Not enough to engage the count down, but enough that the shutter wouldn't fire. i set it and let the timer run and it fired. I went from disappointed to happy in a few seconds. I put a battery in it when I got home, and it works fine. I want to replace the light seals before shooting with it, but I am looking forward to seeing how it performs. I already have a QL19 that looks and feels identical to the 17, but have heard so much about the ql17.
_DSC0006.JPG
 

Donald Qualls

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I've got a QL17 G-III -- it's a nice little camera. Easy to load (QL stands for "quick load"), the lens is quite good and fast for such a compact camera.
 

eli griggs

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I really like these cameras and am doubly lucky to have a pair of them, one Japan made, the other built in Taiwan, and would no consider selling or trading either.

Both of mine are siting on the table, waiting for me to finish some other camera chores, for new light seals and these cameras are super, super quite, much more than the IIIC I owned, and even the Minolta Autocord.

I bought black felts, some with self adhesive backs for replacing those seals at a local "Michael's" store and as shown on youtube, am using fingernail polish remover to soak and scrape off the old material, only After taking wide painters or masking tape and sealing off the len/film opening.

You can no remove the doors on these cameras easily, and the Quick Loading device is prominent when the door is open for cleaning, so anything you can do to keep the old, scraped up felts/foam out of the min back, will pay to do.

Post some pics when you can, and show us what you want to do with this great camera.

Congratulations,
Eli
 

eli griggs

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Good price but what I was sold on is that it included a lot of extras.
View attachment 253491 View attachment 253492

That's one great camera and the lens sets are very good, imo; (I had the 'normal' 75mm and I believe the 180, and loved using it, while I had it).

Something occurred to me a few minutes before I saw this posting, but it seems to me, that the equlivent of extension tubes, or a single adapter, with exchangeable tubes, could be made for these cameras and lens sets, but, then again, magnifying lenses for both taking and viewing lenses, are more simple pieces of kit to add to your bag, you only need a lifting device to correct for parallax when focused and ready to shoot.

I hope you'll enjoy this camera for years, it's a great piece of kit!

Cheers.
 

jay moussy

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Just like @Donald Qualls, when it gets here, an Ansco 2A Buster Brown, born just about when my parents were.

A cheapie with a shutter issue. Researching the camera, I learned that Wollensak was supplying a number of shutters and lenses to OEMs. around 1903-1916. I also found the patent issued for the focus rail stop system, which will help figuring if it is all there.
 

Donald Qualls

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That Buster Brown should be a simple rotary shutter, just like a much later Shur-Shot Jr. (except yours expects 116 film). The lens is most likely a meniscus, single-element concave forward. Which was more than good enough for contact prints. It most likely exposes for ASA 25 (today's ASA; it was marked as 12 back then).
 

jay moussy

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That Buster Brown should be a simple rotary shutter, just like a much later Shur-Shot Jr. (except yours expects 116 film). The lens is most likely a meniscus, single-element concave forward. Which was more than good enough for contact prints. It most likely exposes for ASA 25 (today's ASA; it was marked as 12 back then).

Not mine but same...:

2192869824_5596ffffe9.jpg

It is actually a mutli-blade shutter, which seems to work.. most of the time. Maybe dirt, dried grease, or weak spring?
Shutter is branded "Actus" but I believe these were Wollensak-sourced.
Odd thing: the original cable release has an odd actuator fat end, T-shaped,
A "Modern" cable works, but I suspect the internals expect a larger actuator end pad.

Lens has a front element, which I removed to see the shutter blades and there is another behind shutter, body side.
Now a question: The front lens came out pretty easily, but putting it back gives me trouble, as I am not skilled at engaging these fine threads. Any trick to it, beside going veeerry slowly?
 

Donald Qualls

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My long standing trick for getting recalcitrant threads to start: turn backward, slowly, until you feel a "click", then start turning forward.
 

GRHazelton

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My long standing trick for getting recalcitrant threads to start: turn backward, slowly, until you feel a "click", then start turning forward.
That has so far always worked for me.....
 

Donald Qualls

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Not mine but same...:

2192869824_5596ffffe9.jpg

It is actually a mutli-blade shutter, which seems to work.. most of the time. Maybe dirt, dried grease, or weak spring?
Shutter is branded "Actus" but I believe these were Wollensak-sourced.
Odd thing: the original cable release has an odd actuator fat end, T-shaped,
A "Modern" cable works, but I suspect the internals expect a larger actuator end pad.

Lens has a front element, which I removed to see the shutter blades and there is another behind shutter, body side.
Now a question: The front lens came out pretty easily, but putting it back gives me trouble, as I am not skilled at engaging these fine threads. Any trick to it, beside going veeerry slowly?

Oooooh. That's not what Google took me to when I search for Ansco No. 2a Buster Brown -- I got a box camera.

A few drops of lighter fluid might help out that shutter (though there will undoubtedly be someone who'll yell at me for suggesting it). Not a flooding, mind you, just a few drops.
 
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