• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

What's your latest new old camera ? (Part 2)

Grill

H
Grill

  • 4
  • 0
  • 82

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
202,789
Messages
2,845,606
Members
101,533
Latest member
maho
Recent bookmarks
0
Nikon F body with FTn finder. Great condition with functional meter for seventy bucks. Great eBay seller!

BD6DC0F7-3AFB-49AF-A8C2-75243FAB58D2.jpeg
 
Nikon F body with FTn finder. Great condition with functional meter for seventy bucks. Great eBay seller!

Nice! I have two myself; one too nice to touch and one to shoot with!
 
Actually, the cameras I mentioned are the ones that I have to verify that the lens is parallel to the film even after the bed/door is fully locked out. My Daiichi Zenobia and Balda Jubilette are the worst for this.

I've been playing around with it and have found that, once the brackets are clicked in place, the lens is solidly held and immovable. As soon as they are loosened, as in my original picture, it will swing around the horizontal axis as freely as the bellows will allow.
 
Here's little puzzle. I've been going through a bag of old cameras my grandpa had that have been passed on to me as the family nerd. Some interesting if mostly knackered old cameras, but here's a working one with no maker's mark. The case it was in says 'Made in Germany' on it, and the lens fit is M42, but apart from that, no clue. Any detectives here?
View attachment 245155 View attachment 245156 View attachment 245157

That was my first SLR. Rebuilt, from Altman in Chicago for $49.95. Top shutter speed of 1/500 and you could scare wildlife off at several hundred feet!

Andy
 
I've been playing around with it and have found that, once the brackets are clicked in place, the lens is solidly held and immovable. As soon as they are loosened, as in my original picture, it will swing around the horizontal axis as freely as the bellows will allow.

Yes, and I woudn't actually expect a Bessa to give trouble with the "snapping into place" maneuver, but some less expensive folders did have that problem due to a simpler mechanism for opening deploying and retaining the lens board.
 
An Armor 8 C purely for studying purposes, one of the cheapest European 8mm cameras, if not the cheapest. Even the Bencini Comet 8 has an injection molded frame. The Armor has a body made from sheet metal, an aluminium grave as the saying goes here. But my interest is focused on the reflex finder it has because that was the second reflex 8mm camera. The first was the Ercsam Camex 8 Reflex.
 
I'm about to make some people a little jealous... I just bought a black Nikon F2AS or whatever ithe F2 is called when it's with the uncommon DP-3 finder... it had a broken zoom lens with it, but combined with my Nikkor-S Auto 5c/f2 it's a pro grade powerhouse.

The accuracy of this meter is startling. It judges the most like I would judge manually out of any camera I've used save for my SR-T. It's also the first mechanical SLR I've ever owned with speeds below 1 second, and only the third with a removable finder. I like this so much more than my Nikkormat.

EDIT: I see that that's actually a later version with an auto-indexing finder. What I meant to say was F2SB.
 
Last edited:
I bought a nice Minolta XD11 with 50mm f1.4 lens a few weeks ago. I am fortunate to have a camera repair tech living just a few miles from me. He checked out the meter and the shutter speeds and says the camera is in very good condition. My latest before that was a Minolta X-700. I mainly have Nikon equipment, but couldn't pass up either of the Minolta's. I currently have a roll of T-max 100 in the X-700.
 
Newest old camera? Rollei 16 - Carl Zeiss Tessar 2.8/28. Agfa Optima 6000 110 just before that.
Terry
20200627
Anxiously awaiting arrival from Poland of a used Pentacon K16 with a cartridge. I plan to reload the cartridge with ORWO UN54+, but if it absolutely requires the central perforation to operate the shutter, I will amend my 110 perf'ing scheme to punch the central hole so I can use it. These were actually pretty well built p&S shooters of the 110 ilk, though they wouldn't take 110 film cartridges.
Terry
 
I was just gifted a Toyo 810Gii along with 14 8x10 film holders, 4x5 reducing back, and 3 boxes of film. :-O
 
20200627
Anxiously awaiting arrival from Poland of a used Pentacon K16 with a cartridge. I plan to reload the cartridge with ORWO UN54+, but if it absolutely requires the central perforation to operate the shutter, I will amend my 110 perf'ing scheme to punch the central hole so I can use it. These were actually pretty well built p&S shooters of the 110 ilk, though they wouldn't take 110 film cartridges.
Terry

Wow! Center perforation (presumed between frames)? Like the Pathe 9.5mm movie film, then? Can't offhand think of any reason they'd build for that if it wasn't critical to operation. In Pathe cine film, the film is advanced, both in camera and projector, by a hook that goes into the center perf.

My latest new old camera is my second Kiev 4, a 1971 model to act as backup for the 1973 unit that started me on this. Eventually, I'll start hunting for a bargain on a good-working Contax II/III/IIa/IIIa body (that I can get serviced, instead of everyone I ask saying no, we don't work on those). Can't use my Jupiter 12 on the a models, but that's a question for this fall or next year at tax time.
 
Konica Autoreflex A (1st gen) with its Hexanon 52mm 1.8, and a companion Vivitar 200mm 3.5 lens

Estate sale, silly excuse for buying it: I could not get myself to leave it behind.
Very clean.
Heavy, you got something REAL your hands.
Noisiest shutter I even heard!

It got me to learn a few things about Konica, not a bad thing.
 
EDIT: I see that that's actually a later version with an auto-indexing finder. What I meant to say was F2SB.

You're very fortunate. The F2SB is even rarer and in my opinion a better choice than the F2AS.

I owned the AS now i have the SB.
 
You're very fortunate. The F2SB is even rarer and in my opinion a better choice than the F2AS.

I owned the AS now i have the SB.
It cost 100 dollars more than most models would've. I feel like it was worth it.
 
It cost 100 dollars more than most models would've. I feel like it was worth it.

Of course, and the advantages are:

- Meter coupling with pre-AI lenses AND AI lenses too
- Clear, illuminated display of the f-stop within the viewfinder (the aperture direct readout window of the F2A and F2AS depends on outside illumination)
 
Of course, and the advantages are:

- Meter coupling with pre-AI lenses AND AI lenses too
- Clear, illuminated display of the f-stop within the viewfinder (the aperture direct readout window of the F2A and F2AS depends on outside illumination)
Wait, so those didn't have the LED that backlights the display when you press the switch?
 
ait, so those didn't have the LED that backlights the display when you press the switch?

The F2AS illuminates the shutter speed display, and the meter display is a bright red LED. However the aperture display is optically shown from the aperture ring, so it relies on ambient light. No illumination of it at night!!

The F2SB illuminates shutter speed AND aperture.
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom