Judas windows never work as well in the field as their designers anticipate. The optics get dirty and dim, or the lighting isn't right. Now, I still want one of the later Minolta srT models with a Judas window to show aperture, but it isn't exactly a rational desire.
What's your latest new old camera ? (Part 2)
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That's what I like of the Canon New F-1 and such variations of the NIkon F2 like the F2 Photomic and F2SB: They don't use the damn judas windows! They display the chosen aperture through the finder's own indicators.
Under the thick dust is a Victo Superbe half plate.
A Vittesa a1 with Ulton 50mm f2.
Actually not as silly as it looks, my daughter thinks I should fix a little birdy to the top of the lens to pop up when you open the doors like a cuckoo clock.
A Vittesa a1 with Ulton 50mm f2.
Actually not as silly as it looks, my daughter thinks I should fix a little birdy to the top of the lens to pop up when you open the doors like a cuckoo clock.
Niiiiiiiiccccccceeeee!!!!!!
Congratulations, that is a great gift and I hope you enjoy it everytime you take it out for a shoot.
Do no forget to post the pics and a link from here to there, if that's your thing.
I love the Konica Autoreflex cameras. They're solid and sturdy, plus the Hexanon glass is outstanding! Enjoy it!
Andy
I recently acquired a beautiful Asahi Pentax K2 in pristine condition, along with the SMC Pentax-A 24-50/4.
I just got an Olympus XA in working but scuffed up condition for... get ready... SEVEN BUCKS at a rich man's estate sale. They obviously didn't know what it was and thought it was any other plastic pocket camera.
I've put a short roll of Foma 200 through it already... but it seems to have run down the battery a little quick. Alkali 1.5v batteries are trash.
I've put a short roll of Foma 200 through it already... but it seems to have run down the battery a little quick. Alkali 1.5v batteries are trash.
Check that the meter is shutting off when you close the camera. Failing to do is something I think I remember reading about when I got my XA -- and it's reasonably easy to fix, as I recall.
It doesnt shut off when I close the cover partially but I don't know how to check if it's shutting off when I close it completely... certainly it doesn't fire when the case is closed.
Hmmm. I haven't seen mine in several years (packed for a move, hasn't been unpacked yet). Might be someone can make good suggestions over on "Camera Building, Repairs, and Modification".
Wow, sounds like a steal. Good for you!
Well, it's not that the batteries died, it's that they quickly started to give slower and slower shutter speeds for the same light at the same aperture--i.e., they were no longer supplying the correct voltage, so the camera was registering less light.
I think I did a couple of long exposures inside and used the self timer a couple of times while I was testing it without film, so my thought is that those features are more draining to an alkali battery than normal use. Setting the camera to 800 has it working alright for an ASA of 200 for now... it's just a shame because those are the batteries to my F2SB, which also EATS those alkali cells. Both were designed for Silver Oxide batteries, which is at least better than being designed for mercury batteries in terms of ease of use in today's world.
The Widow Lady , former member of my Camera Club who gave me a lot of OLYMPUS gear stashed in the garage for years since her Husband died behind his Darkroom Door found another OLYMPUS lens, an E-Zuiko Auto-T 135mm f3.5 and a Voigtlander VITO CLR with rangefinder and 50mm f2.8 'Lanthar' lens and case and gave them to me 2 days ago. I have tested lens and camera and both work well , even the Selenium Cell Meter on the CLR still is accurate !
Voigtlander Vito CLR by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
Voigtlander Vito CLR by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
Got this wista 45d a while ago, but it was my latest camera purchase. A good clean and some book binders tape on the tiny piholes and it's all good.
Well, turns out it's "only" a G :-D
Open the camera, see if the green/red light is on, the with your eye still looking through the window, as it begins to appear, slowly slide the clamshell closed.
If the switch is working, the light will go off,
To confirm, slowly open the camera shell and after a few mm to a cm, the light should come on.
Leaving the clamshell open means the battery will be on and drain, its as simple as that.
This camera was designed for silver oxide batteries, so ditch your alkalines and get a fresh pair of SR44's
In case you need them, this link will give you both user manuals, short then long, in the same PDA.
Please consider making a donation to the site.
https://www.butkus.org/chinon/olympus/olympus_xa/olympus_xa.htm
Good Luck.
I've confirmed now that they're not draining when the camera is closed. It's just that they were getting a little low already and then I took some long exposures and used the self timer a couple of times so they got rather flat. But what green light do you mean?
Just purchased a Nikon F6 from JCH, waiting for it to arrive. Comes with a CLA and 3 month guarantee. This will take the place of my F100 bought from new and my M6 Leica, also bought new. I realize that I must have AF for 35mm, so no more Leica. The F100 has never missed a beat, but it will now be back0up.
Get a set of fresh SR44 batteries, and a second for your bag, then measure the voltage and more impotently, the micro amps to note those and the hour and day you put these into your XA.
At the first sign of your camera balking at doing it's job, remeasure the electrics, and workout how many hours/days since you first replaced the old batteries.
If you do no have a multimeter, Harbor Freight has a small red one they sometimes give away with a purchase, which on it's own is about $5 and there are smart phone coupons you can download and show for another 20% or higher discounts (around holidays) at 25%.
Cheers.
At the first sign of your camera balking at doing it's job, remeasure the electrics, and workout how many hours/days since you first replaced the old batteries.
If you do no have a multimeter, Harbor Freight has a small red one they sometimes give away with a purchase, which on it's own is about $5 and there are smart phone coupons you can download and show for another 20% or higher discounts (around holidays) at 25%.
Cheers.
I mean... I have a good engineer's multi... I just don't really care enough to dig it out. I know silver oxide would do better... am I gonna buy them? Maybe, maybe not. Maybe after grad school when I have a real job.
That's up to you, yea or nae, but keep in mind that some camera electrics could care less what you are feeding them, but others are very choosy and will no work 'correctly' or at 100% without the OEM battery the manual directs you to use.
Remember, there is a reason Olympus picked Silver Oxide instead of Alkaline batteries, which were/are much easier to find and affordable than the former and this maybe why you're no getting top performance, or perhaps even proper exposures.
IMO, good Luck and Be Safe, Healthy and Happy.
Well, it stays linear at low voltages, I'll say that, because compensating it by two stops to 800 gave very good and contrasty images on Foma 200, so I assume even an alkali will give great results when it's fresh. I will say I used the alkali batteries I was using for at least two rolls in my F2SB, which also eats alkalis like they're candy. Lucky I have a wholesaler in town...
The advice you give is well received however. I just like that I can get a a handful of alkalis for under three dollars and the same number of silver oxide is 12 and change at that wholesaler... and don't get me started on retail!
Eventually I'll get some silvers.
MattKing
Moderator
The alkaline batteries may work fine initially, but if you use them with an XA, they soon won't - they will trail off in their effectiveness, at an unpredictable, but fairly quick rate.
Adjusting the ISO would have to be a constantly changing affair.
If it is any consolation, the silver oxide cells usually end up being cheaper over time - they tend to last so much longer whhen compared to alkaline cells.
Adjusting the ISO would have to be a constantly changing affair.
If it is any consolation, the silver oxide cells usually end up being cheaper over time - they tend to last so much longer whhen compared to alkaline cells.
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