what waS your last photography related purchase?

[Kodachromeguy]

A new-to-me Zone VI 4x5. I bought it badly broken for a very reasonable sum, and a couple of weeks later with a new block of mahogany and my router table it works again.

This looks fabulous. What part of the body did you rebuild? Is this one of the Vermont models or a Wisner construction?

 

[Disconnekt]

(Hopefully) a CLA & bellows replaced of my Kodak Monitor 616. I've had the camera & replacement bellows (got from Used Photo Pro) sitting in a box for a while. Finally decided to mail it out to the guys who did the CLA & bellows replacement for my Kodak Monitor 620, so they should be able to do the same with the Monitor 616. It should get there by monday & will get the estimate a day or so later after they check it over.

 

[chuckroast]

Just got the invoice for a CLA and calibrate of my 1974 Nikon F Apollo and FtN metering head from ICT camera repair.

Can't wait to try it.

 

[Franswa]

Just got the invoice for a CLA and calibrate of my 1974 Nikon F Apollo and FtN metering head from ICT camera repair.

Can't wait to try it.

Nice, is that black or silver?

 

[chuckroast]

Nice, is that black or silver?

Mine is a very clean 8/10 late model Apollo FtN. It has some slight brassing but not a bunch.

This is the first time I have used ICT. If the work is to my liking, I will probably send my F2 for the same treatment.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Just ordered a heat sealer, mainly intended for use converting 35mm negative pages to store Minox or 16 mm negative strips.

 

[ivan35mm]

Just ordered a heat sealer, mainly intended for use converting 35mm negative pages to store Minox or 16 mm negative strips.

Awesome idea! U-line?

Just picked up a Plaubel Peco Jr lens board.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Now you get to do the full test - https://www.kodak.com/content/products-brochures/Film/KODAK-A-Guide-to-Darkroom-Illumination-K-4.pdf
The ones used by me and at the Darkroom Group's darkroom are great to work with/under, and I've tested both using the Kodak test.
Where did you source your new one Andy?

Sorry Matt, just seeing your post now. The Darkroom Group is what inspired me. I sourced it from Amazon. I'll do the kodak test. Thanks!

 

[mshchem]

Sorry Matt, just seeing your post now. The Darkroom Group is what inspired me. I sourced it from Amazon. I'll do the kodak test. Thanks!

I don't know, best let sleeping dogs lie (lay? lye?)

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I don't know, best let sleeping dogs lie (lay? lye?)

heh heh... I did the CD test. Easier. Faster.

 

[MattKing]

Sorry Matt, just seeing your post now. The Darkroom Group is what inspired me. I sourced it from Amazon. I'll do the kodak test. Thanks!

@Andrew O'Neill
Can you share the exact Amazon link? It has been years since I bought mine, and E. and J. bought the one for the Darkroom Group.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

@Andrew O'Neill
Can you share the exact Amazon link? It has been years since I bought mine, and E. and J. bought the one for the Darkroom Group.

Sure!

 

[MattKing]

Thanks!

 

[Donald Qualls]

U-line?

No, cheap ($30 for 12" working length from Amazon).

 

[chuckroast]

Mine is a very clean 8/10 late model Apollo FtN. It has some slight brassing but not a bunch.

This is the first time I have used ICT. If the work is to my liking, I will probably send my F2 for the same treatment.

ICT did a nice job. Shutter speeds about as expected and meter is right on now. 'Happy I did this. Another used camera would have cost about the same and I'd have ended up with uncertain shutter and meter function. Apparently, one of the metering cells needed replacing. Now I have a known good FTn to shoot with.

 

[Taurabon]

I won an auction for an old camera instruction manual. There are two No. 3 Kodak manuals, one from 1903 and one from 1908, with different page layouts. The one on the top left is a 4x5 inch No. 4 cartridge Kodak, a French edition from around 1899.

 

[wahiba]

Processing three colour films taken over the summer. Just the processing and they come back in a file page so i scan and finish off myself. Tried colour processing, too much faffing around for the little I do, so AG Processing (Gateshead, UK) services are 'purchased'.

Harman Phoenix 200; Harman Red; Lomo Metropolis. Swimming pool was the only subject on all three films. It is in Spain.

 

[ivan35mm]

a big ol' compound no.5 shutter

 

[JensH]

a big ol' compound no.5 shutter

Great, I like Compounds.

 

[ivan35mm]

Great, I like Compounds.

Love the old dial set compur shutters as well. incredibly easy to work on / clean.

Now I need to come up with a way to mount it onto a 6x9 lens board

Really like the look and feel of these massive shutters on my medium format view camera. Will be used to front mount a couple soft focus barrel lenses I have coming in the mail.

Ilex #4 Shutter on Peco Jr.

 

[JensH]

Love the old dial set compur shutters as well. incredibly easy to work on / clean.

Now I need to come up with a way to mount it onto a 6x9 lens board

Really like the look and feel of these massive shutters on my medium format view camera. Will be used to front mount a couple soft focus barrel lenses I have coming in the mail.


Ilex #4 Shutter on Peco Jr.

Yes, they are quite CLA friendly. I'm not experienced enorgh to service a rim-set Compur (or later Rapid...), but a Compound - any time.

I've put a Zeiss Mikrotar 4.5cm (basically a barrel lens, too) in front of a #2 dial set Compur of a 9x12 Ica Ideal, works, but tricky to use in it's magnification range (over 5:1)...

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

@MattKing I worked with the red LED, developing xray film, and making some contact prints, and I can confirm that the lights are darkroom safe!

 

[Don_ih]

I can confirm that the lights are darkroom safe!

You know Matt won't believe you until you do the Kodak test.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

 

[MattKing]

You know Matt won't believe you until you do the Kodak test.

The biggest reason to do the Kodak test is that it is much more effective at testing for the 2nd type of problem with safelights.
The first type of problem is that the safelight produces visible fog as a result of the cumulative effect of pre-printing safelight exposure plus printing exposure plus post-printing safelight exposure.
The second type of problem is that the cumulative effect of pre-printing safelight exposure plus printing exposure plus post-printing safelight exposure is a change in the contrast behavior and speed behavior of the paper, when compared to the effect of just the printing exposure.
In other words, it helps you avoid the safelight that is changing your prints in ways that aren't as obvious as visible fog.