what was the last camera you used, last film and how was it developed

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Sirius Glass

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Bit the bullet and went back to Manhattan to do some street shooting. Took my Yashica 44, loaded with Portra 160NC (exp. 2008). For the fun of it I decided to try developing at room temp, as Reinhold from Filmwasters used to do. Souped it at 82 degrees F for 11:45 per Reinhold's development chart. Blix was 8 minutes.

You would do better to use standard C-41 development chemicals that using soup.
 

Donald Qualls

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Working my way through a roll of Portra 400 in my "White Russian" Moskva 5 -- will be developed (sometime, I'm backlogged pretty deep due to reasons) in Flexicolor chemistry.
 

abruzzi

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two sheets of 8x10 catlabs 80--shot with an older prototype Gibellini camera and a Dagor 300mm. Developed in Rodinal 1:25.
 

Kevin Ekstrom

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Sent a roll of Kodak Tri-X to The Dark Room. standard C-41 process. (I do not develop at home)

Nikon N75-AF Nikkor 35-105mm f/3.5 - Kodak Tri-X 400

shack new 1000 670.jpg
 
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Sirius Glass

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Sent a roll of Kodak Tri-X to The Dark Room. standard C-41 process. (I do not develop at home)

Nikon N75-AF Nikkor 35-105mm f/3.5 - Kodak Tri-X 400

View attachment 315034

I have been using a Nikon N75-AF since 2004 for color negative 35mm film. It works consistently well in all sorts of conditions.
 

Kevin Ekstrom

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I have been using a Nikon N75-AF since 2004 for color negative 35mm film. It works consistently well in all sorts of conditions.

I agree. My N75 gets more use than any other 35mm in my collection. My only caveat with the N75 is no ISO settings. Other than that, it performs perfectly for many shooting needs.
 

Sirius Glass

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I agree. My N75 gets more use than any other 35mm in my collection. My only caveat with the N75 is no ISO settings. Other than that, it performs perfectly for many shooting needs.

That is why I use it for color. Sometimes I have to stop down and the N75 does the job. For black & white film or IR film where I may be using filters, I stop down from the meter reading for the filters and use the Zone System metering on the F100.
 

Kevin Ekstrom

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That is why I use it for color. Sometimes I have to stop down and the N75 does the job. For black & white film or IR film where I may be using filters, I stop down from the meter reading for the filters and use the Zone System metering on the F100.
Some other from my N75

I mostly meter through the filter for B&W on the N75 and bracket if I feel the need. I find the results for the most part to be excellent. I shoot with the Yellow quite often and pretty much can dial in the exposure without a hitch. I also tend to use the Orange but mostly to grab a deep, dark sky.

Shot with Yellow (I'm not sure if I hit zone 10 here, maybe 8 and 9)

BEACON YELLOW FILTER 1000.jpg




ORANGE very dark skies but contrast seems to hold up (I think the zones are covered though-out on this image)

BEACONS ORANGE FILTER 1000.jpg
 
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Sirius Glass

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Some other from my N75

I mostly meter through the filter for B&W on the N75 and bracket if I feel the need. I find the results for the most part to be excellent. I shoot with the Yellow quite often and pretty much can dial in the exposure without a hitch. I also tend to use the Orange but mostly to grab a deep, dark sky.

Shot with Yellow (I'm not sure if I hit zone 10 here, maybe 8 and 9)

View attachment 315054



ORANGE very dark skies but contrast seems to hold up (I think the zones are covered though-out on this image)

View attachment 315055

There is no problem with the N75 for black & white film. I use N75 for color negative film and F100 for black & white film. Usually the two get along without squabbling about lenses or "You are on my side of the camera bag."
 

BMbikerider

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I bought an almost mint Nikormat FT3 recently (for not a lot of money) and so far have only had one film through it due to pressure of work from an another direction. The bog standard centre weighted exposure was absolutely correct for most of the exposures on Kentmere Pan 100. The only problem was a diagonal apparent scratch mark. which I put down to user error when loading the Stainless spiral
It was developed in ID11 diluted 1-3 as per my normal standard. the lenses used were a 35/70 Nikon AF F2.8 zoom and a 20/35 Nikon AF zoom.
 

cramej

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Leotax K, 24mm Vivitar F mount lens adapted, Legacy Pro 400 (Neopan)

1 roll shot at 400, developed in Arista Premium liquid 1+9 for 7:30

1 roll shot at 800, Arista Premium liquid 1+9 for 10:00.
 
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Zone VI camera, brass lens no ID on lens ,pure silver plate.
Developed with sun light.
 

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Donald Qualls

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bsdunek

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Minox B, Rollei 80S film. Finished the roll Saturday, developed yesterday in Microphen. Now I have two strips of Minox negatives hanging in the darkroom. Time to fire up the Minox enlarger.
 

Alexander K

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Maxxum a9, ILFORD XP2400 developed in D-23.
I don't like the result yet, I will try again.
Before that, I tested it in Rodinal 1:100, but the high contrast upset me.
 

Donald Qualls

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Kiev 2 with Jupiter 3 (50/1.5 Sonnar clone) on Kentmere 100 -- still in the camera, but only a frame or two left. Likely to be processed in D-23, since I'm more likely to get a liter of that mixed up than to get my 5L EcoPro mixed and bagged.

BTW, @Alexander K I'd expect to get better results with XP2 in something like HC-110 or Xtol (or a clone). I've used Df96 monobath (treat as Delta 400). Then again, you could just shorten your time in Rodinal...
 
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