I modified Edwards 20X developer, a relatively less known push developer for Tri-X, to work as a two bath developer. Tested it on Kentmere Pan 100 shooting with Nikon FE. Results are encouraging and I got usable negatives at both EI 200 and EI 400. Now I need to try this developer on Tri-X.
. I amaze myself from time to time with my ability to confuse myself. 

The "cheaper" lens is pin-sharp and its contrast is wonderful.
@ozphoto Bantam Specials are very nice cameras. If the shutter works correctly and the advance stop isn't causing trouble with the perfs on the 35mm film, you've got a good one there. I recommend cutting 120 film to respool -- comes with backing, and the 6x4.5 framing track is close enough -- plus, if you trim the leader and tail of the backing to about half length you can get the whole roll on the 828 spool and have 16 exposures instead of 6 or 8 (depending on emulsion and age) from the original backing.


someone suggested a cigar cutter which might actually work if I can find the extra one I had lying around last year.![]()
If you have or have access to a 3D printer, there are a number of film cutters that could be "adjusted" to cut a 35mm strip from 120. Or, with a small lathe (or improvised lathe, from a common drill motor, clamp, etc.) you can spin the roll (in the light, works fine) and make the cut with a utility knife, then take the roll into the dark to respool...
Wood Nymph by E.J. Bragg, on Flickr
Diggory the Heligan Scarecrow by E.J. Bragg, on FlickrLeica M6 and HP5+ @ ei200 developed in Ilfosol 3 for 6 minutes with 15 mins initial agitation and 2 invertions at 2 minutes and again at 4 minutes. Minimalistic yet effective.
One more time you make me want to try HP5 at 200. I got a couple of rolls... next time I load.
I got a "new" Mamya c330 last week. Tested with Delta 400, all shots handheld, and I was stoked. First time I'd used that film and I really like it in MF. Lab developed, they use Clayton F76 chemistry.
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