what was the last camera you used, last film and how was it developed

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benjiboy

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Agfa Precisa shot in my New Canon F1- AE, I posted to Ag Photo labs yesterday.
 
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I modified Edwards 20X developer, a relatively less known push developer for Tri-X, to work as a two bath developer. Tested it on Kentmere Pan 100 shooting with Nikon FE. Results are encouraging and I got usable negatives at both EI 200 and EI 400. Now I need to try this developer on Tri-X.

For sake of comparison, I shot a few frames of Kentmere 100 at EI 200 yesterday and developed it in the original Edwards 20X developer (single bath).
 

Disconnekt

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Shot a couple rolls of Fujichrome RF 50 through my Sears TLS & 50mm f1.7 lens (camera just got CLA'ed & lens had a dented filter ring that got fixed). Put the rolls in the freezer with some other rolls of film I shot already (have a few other rolls of film I havent shot yet, once I do Im gonna send em all in at once to get developed)
 
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mshchem

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I shot 3 sheets of 8x10 Delta 100. I loaded the holders a couple weeks back, some how got in my head it was HP5, accidentally grossly over exposed 1 sheet, the other two exposed correctly (for HP5). The one I overexposed came out great. :smile:. I amaze myself from time to time with my ability to confuse myself. :redface:
 

cjbecker

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Pacemaker Speed graflex, hp5, caltar 210 6.8 at f11 1/60, xtol-r 10min, 68F. Little underdeveloped. Still getting the xtol to stabilize, and the times correct.
 

ozphoto

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Respooled some 35mm onto an 828 spool and dropped it into my Kodak Bantam Special. Wasn't expecting much, as it was a new purchase and rather cheaper than others I've seen for sale, but it surprised me completely!

The "cheaper" lens is pin-sharp and its contrast is wonderful. Sure it's not a speedy camera to use, but I got the hang of it by the end of the first roll: ProImage 100 at box speed and metered using the Sunny-16 method.

0002_00A000027480002.jpg 0007_5A000027480007.jpg 0009_7A000027480009 2.jpg
 

Donald Qualls

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@ozphoto Bantam Specials are very nice cameras. If the shutter works correctly and the advance stop isn't causing trouble with the perfs on the 35mm film, you've got a good one there. I recommend cutting 120 film to respool -- comes with backing, and the 6x4.5 framing track is close enough -- plus, if you trim the leader and tail of the backing to about half length you can get the whole roll on the 828 spool and have 16 exposures instead of 6 or 8 (depending on emulsion and age) from the original backing.
 

Nicholas Lindan

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The "cheaper" lens is pin-sharp and its contrast is wonderful.

'Low cost' cameras - Nettars, Silettes - with triplet lenses produce really good results.

I did an experiment comparing a Silette with a 3-element Apotar lens against an M5 with a Summicron. When I shot hand-held at 1/125 with the lens carefully focused the results were pretty indistinguishable; on a tripod the comparison was as you would expect. I simulated grab-shots, lens at f11 for depth of field, 1/250 shutter, and prefocused to the expected distance: I quickly brought the camera to my eye as I passed the subject and took the picture. Under these conditions the results were so variable, with the Silette often outperforming the Leica, that the conclusion I reached was that for street shooting a $15 camera was as good as a $2,000 one. With the benefit that if someone gets really pissed-off at you then you can just say "Here, take the camera."

Hmm, a good use for an old Exakta - cassette to cassette film transport and a cut-off knife. Slice the film, make a show of rewinding it and then give the PO'd person a cassette of blank film.
 

cjbecker

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Used instax mini in a 2x3 pack film holder on a graflex rb series b with a ektar 127 4.5. Don’t have a useable film back for the camera yet but wanted to test it out.
 

ozphoto

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@ozphoto Bantam Specials are very nice cameras. If the shutter works correctly and the advance stop isn't causing trouble with the perfs on the 35mm film, you've got a good one there. I recommend cutting 120 film to respool -- comes with backing, and the 6x4.5 framing track is close enough -- plus, if you trim the leader and tail of the backing to about half length you can get the whole roll on the 828 spool and have 16 exposures instead of 6 or 8 (depending on emulsion and age) from the original backing.

Donald, it seems to be operating ok - admittedly the above shots were slightly overexposed, but that was my decision so I haven't *really* given it a thorough going over. I was too excited to care, I just wanted to use it!! :D

I depress the button to ensure the film advances ok and it didn't destroy the sprocket holes, so that's good. I'm lucky that the film backing paper I just used is a 12 shot length, so I get 3 rolls out of my 36exp 35mm. I'll give the 120 a whirl too - still figuring the best way to cut it the correct width; someone suggested a cigar cutter which might actually work if I can find the extra one I had lying around last year. :D
 

Donald Qualls

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someone suggested a cigar cutter which might actually work if I can find the extra one I had lying around last year. :D

I think that was me. :wink: If you have or have access to a 3D printer, there are a number of film cutters that could be "adjusted" to cut a 35mm strip from 120. Or, with a small lathe (or improvised lathe, from a common drill motor, clamp, etc.) you can spin the roll (in the light, works fine) and make the cut with a utility knife, then take the roll into the dark to respool...
 

Donald Qualls

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Welta Weltini, Fuji Superia X-Tra 400, still in the camera (frame counter shows 36+, so not long now...).
 

abruzzi

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Mostly, I’ve been shooting and developing Fuji HR-U 8x10 sheet film, trying to chase down a light leak I can’t see. Soon, I should be able to take real photos (8x10 is a bit of a PIA for me still. I much prefer 4x5, but maybe time will reverse this opinion…)
 

Vaughn

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5x7 Eastman View No.2, Fuji W 180/5.6, TMax400
F32 at 1/2 second, PyrocatHD 2-2-100 and 74F 12 minutes in 3006 Expert drum
Negative rephotographed on light table w/ digital camera and messed with.

Redwood Trunk on Rock, Sept 2021
Redwood Creek, Redwood National Park

For scale, the redwood trunk on top of the rock (center of image) is about 12 feet in diameter, give or take a foot or two.
 

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Moose22

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Leica M6 and HP5+ @ ei200 developed in Ilfosol 3 for 6 minutes with 15 mins initial agitation and 2 invertions at 2 minutes and again at 4 minutes. Minimalistic yet effective.

One more time you make me want to try HP5 at 200. I got a couple of rolls... next time I load.

I got a "new" Mamya c330 last week. Tested with Delta 400, all shots handheld, and I was stoked. First time I'd used that film and I really like it in MF. Lab developed, they use Clayton F76 chemistry.

20211004Delta400_1000px_25280009.jpg
 

John Bragg

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One more time you make me want to try HP5 at 200. I got a couple of rolls... next time I load.

I got a "new" Mamya c330 last week. Tested with Delta 400, all shots handheld, and I was stoked. First time I'd used that film and I really like it in MF. Lab developed, they use Clayton F76 chemistry.

20211004Delta400_1000px_25280009.jpg

Good work Moose, and nice camera. I like Delta 400 too, but settled on HP5+ as the nearest equivalent to Tri-X without paying throught the nose. Delta is also dearer than HP5+ but it is smooth. I happen to like a bit of honest grain, so Delta can appear too clinically smooth for me.
 

rcap

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Kodak Retina IIIS, Schneider Retina-Xenon 50mm f/1.9, Delta 100. Ocean Grove, NJ USA. HC-110 dilution B, 20C, 5 minutes.

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