what was the last camera you used, last film and how was it developed

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jeffreythree

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Adding some developer to the distilled water may help. :tongue:

Yes, it helped a lot. Today's roll came out much better. I was testing Grandad's Minolta 50mm f2 on his SRT102 with Kentmere 100 in 1:3 Microdol-X. It is the last of his old Minolta lenses I have not tested.
 

TheToadMen

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Nikon FM3a + 40 mm/2.8P lens, loaded with Agfa Vista 400.
 

Eminuss

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Today, Speed graphic anniversary, Arista paper negative, Rodinal.
 

Links_147

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Australia
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I last used my Nikon EL with the standard 50mm/2, loaded with Kentmere 100. Developed in D76 in a JOBO CPE2. Hoping to get to do some printing this weekend :smile:
 

BMbikerider

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Minolta XE1 + Minolta lenses (24/35, 28/85 and 70/210) Agfa Vista 200 and developed in Fuji C41 using my JOBO CPE2. It is almost a cast iron certainty that Agfa Vista is a re-badged Fuji C200 emulsion. Not the Superia, but the bog standard C200. This is given away by the small code number on the cassette just near the lip of the felt trap
 

naeroscatu

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Rollei 35 with the 40mm Carl Zeiss Tessar, Ilford HP5 Plus 400 ISO developed in HC110 at 1:49 dil. Got a great negative that I can't wait to print. Very impressed of what this little camera can do.
 

Rick A

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Laurel Highlands
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Shot this yesterday(6-7) with my B&J 5x7 on MRX blue xray film, contact print on #3 paper

27443607012_d0fce1c278_d.jpg
 

pdeeh

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XA2, Kentmere 400, D23 1+1
 

Theo Sulphate

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Pentax Auto 110 with Lomography Tiger 200 (I didn't file the cassette tab, so the camera used ISO 80 - overexposure is better than underexposure at 400). Commercially processed C-41 (is Tiger 200 uniquely Lomography's film or is it rebranded from another company?).

Took photos with the 24mm (50mm equivalent), the 18mm, and the 50mm, and the flash.

Here's a soft smartphone photo of one print:

IMAG6978-1-1.jpg


What I'm noticing is that sometimes the focus is falling closer to the camera than where I actually focused . This tells me that the film plane is further from the lens than it should be (the closer the subject, the greater the distance between lens and film). I suspect this is due to film curvature in the 110 cassette - there's a takeup spool but the feed side just has the film coiled and loose. This effect is mitigated when shooting in bright sunlight - probably because the camera has chosen a smaller aperture.

The camera, its lenses, and accessories are fun to use. All high quality. Pity about the cassettes.
 
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Theo Sulphate

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Impossible film in an SX-70:

IMAG7026-1.jpg
 

Jeff Bradford

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Rolling Prairie, IN
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Pentax K2, Eastman Double-X @250, "metered" by Sunny 16 rule, 5:30 in HC-110 B. First roll developed in the new house. So far, so good...
 

SalveSlog

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Olympus OM-1n.
Rollei superpan 200. Developed following the Ilford reversal recipe except:
- First developer (PQ Universal) with no hypo.
- Bleach mixed with 100ml solution A + 100ml solution B + 100ml water.
- Second developer reusing the first.
Nice results. But should probably have diluted the developer before reusing it for the second development.
 

baachitraka

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Olympus OM-1n & Zuiko 50mm f/1.8
Agfa APX 100 new emulsion.
Developed in PC-TEA for 7'30": Absolutely outstanding stuff.
 

pdeeh

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om1n, delta 100, d23 1+1
 

pentaxpete

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Two days ago used my 1960's 'Gift' Minolta SR T-100x finished up a Fuji Acros 100 rated 80 ASA then re-loaded with a 04/2002 dated 'TURA' ( Agfa) P150 which i also rated at 80 ASA and did both films in Rodinal 1+50 -- the Acros for 13.5 mins and the Tura for 15 mins @ 20C -- I have now found that the camera FLASH Synch is faulty -- none of my 'fill-in flash' shots showed any flash so I attached the flash and with back opened fired at 1/60 and saw NO flash through shutter , then tried 1/30 and 1/15th second and still no flash-- should have checked flash synch when I was given camera ! Here is one where I wanted some weak fill-in flash ---
Epping and Ongar Railway by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
 

pdeeh

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Kiev 303, AgfaVista200 ...

Consistency, accuracy, using good materials and taking care with them as well as one's process - these are critical to success in photography

Accordingly, I always observe the niceties of film development.

I spent 20 minutes trying to wrestle a springy strip of 16mm film onto a FSU reel, before losing my rag and smooshing it into the bottom of the tank and hoping for the best. Then I found some PQ under the sink that was going a bit brown and diluted it 1+9 or something with water straight from the tap. It was definitely at a temperature, I can guarantee that. Developed for 12mins giving it some swizzling about every minute or so. Fixed for as long as I could be arsed, which wasn't very, as I was also making a salad for supper at the same time. Left it to wash while I was blanching some broad beans.

Later on I'll scan it with my digital scanner and see what came out....
 

walliswizard

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Mar 22, 2015
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Pentax ME Super, SMC 50mm 1.7, Agfa Vista Plus 200 film, developed to negative only at Snappy Snaps. Scanned on my Epson V500, tweaked a bit in Lightroom mostly for dust.

Considering the film only cost me £1 from the pound shop, I didn't mind the £5.99 to have it developed. I would love to develop colour at home and at some point I'll give that a go. Made a nice change from shooting black and white and was very pleased with the results.

That ME Super is fast becoming one of my favourite cameras. Love it.
MarshFarm6616-19 (Large).jpg
 

papagene

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Bronica S2a... Ilford FP4+... not developed yet, have to finish the roll.
 

pdeeh

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here ya go, another masterpiece ...

20160623-1.jpg
 
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