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what is the last thing you developed or printed

Bacon Fest 2013

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Yesterday:

4 4x5 sheets FOMA 100. EI 100, Home brew D76 1:1, 11:00 @20ºC on JOBO machine.
 
A 135 and a 120 of Fomapan 200 in Fomadon R09 with 1:50 dilution, 10 mins @20C

I am new to this and got odd results. Both films shot on the same day, Both developed on the same day, same chemistry, same tank inversion scheme etc.

120 film developer came out green. Negatives lacking contrast.
135 film developer came out same colour as what went in and good contrast to negs.

It is as if the 120 and 135 are different films.
 
A 135 and a 120 of Fomapan 200 in Fomadon R09 with 1:50 dilution, 10 mins @20C

I am new to this and got odd results. Both films shot on the same day, Both developed on the same day, same chemistry, same tank inversion scheme etc.

120 film developer came out green. Negatives lacking contrast.
135 film developer came out same colour as what went in and good contrast to negs.

It is as if the 120 and 135 are different films.
The colour is due, among other things, to antihalation dyes, which differ between backing paper backed 120 and cassette stored 135 film - so the difference in colour isn't unusual.
I'm assuming the films were shot in different cameras with different lenses and different shutters. If so, there are numerous other potential sources for the differences.
Have you observed much more consistent results with other films of two different formats?
 
The 120 has a green antihalation dye. This washes out with the developer (most of it in any case), which explains the green color.
Both emulsions are the same, so if the 120 was less contrasty, development was not identical to the 135. What tank did you use, how much developer (volume) and which agitation pattern? And was the developer temperature the same in both instances?
 
The 120 has a green antihalation dye. This washes out with the developer (most of it in any case), which explains the green color.
Both emulsions are the same, so if the 120 was less contrasty, development was not identical to the 135. What tank did you use, how much developer (volume) and which agitation pattern? And was the developer temperature the same in both instances?

Thanks for the reply. I have been using Foma 200 in 135 for a few years but have only just started with 120 and this was my 1st film in that format.

My process is both in Patterson tanks (a 135 tank with 300ml and a universal tank with 500ml), both at 20C, 1:50 dil, 30 secs agitation in 1st min then 10 seconds at start of each min for total time of 10 mins.
 
The colour is due, among other things, to antihalation dyes, which differ between backing paper backed 120 and cassette stored 135 film - so the difference in colour isn't unusual.
I'm assuming the films were shot in different cameras with different lenses and different shutters. If so, there are numerous other potential sources for the differences.
Have you observed much more consistent results with other films of two different formats?

This was my 1st film at 120, I have been 135 only until now and so I have nothing to compare with.
The info on the dye is interesting.
 
Then the difference in contrast is certainly very odd. I never noticed any significant difference in development or contrast between various formats with foma films.
 
- 1 roll of expired Delta 100 processed in my Rondinax 35U with Agfa Rodinal 1:40, 14 minutes at 17.5C.
 
This weekend I printed 14 more images for my Sinister Idyll series - 14 palladium prints on Hahnemuhle Platinum Rag, 2 1/4 x 4 1/4 inch contact prints from in-camera original negatives. All prints are from my Sinister Idyll: Historical Slavery in the Modern Landscape series, depicting places in our landscape that have a deep historical association with slavery, from historic homes to early industrial sites to slave dealerships and slave cemeteries.
 
Roll of Neopan 1600 135/36.
Shot at 800 coz the XA only goes up to 800.
D23 (made in July 2018) 1+1 for 10 mins.
Scanning it as I write this.
Scanning :outlaw:
SCANNING :outlaw: :outlaw:
S C A N N I N G :outlaw: :outlaw: :outlaw:
 
About to develop another 6 sheets of FP4+ 5x7 exposed down in southern Chile. Results so far -- not too bad, not enough for a portfolio, but about what I expected for a month of fast traveling with a slow camera (and operator!)
 
A roll of Fomapan 400 (120) in Fomadon Excel (Kodak Xtol clone). I'll use this combo again!
 
I made a 5x7 platinum/palladium print from an image from Chile a couple nights ago. I have been printing negatives from Zion, but had to sneak this one in. More printing tonight...again concentrating on Zion, but might squeeze another Chilean negative in! Boat, Hualaihue, Chile (southern Chile).

F22 at 1/8 sec, 180mm lens with yellow filter, FP4+ developed in Pyrocat HD in 3006 Expert Drum
Classic pt/pd formula but with no contrast agent, Hahnemuhle Platinum Rag paper, developed in Potassium oxalate, 110F
 

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Vaughn, very nice.
 
Thanks...I have postponed tonights printing session until tomorrow -- I still need another day to recouperate from the last printing session (6pm Wed to 5am thursday)!

Also from the last printing session...8x10, Zion National Park
 

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Just now, Tmax 100 (35mm) in Fuji Microfine. Acros is gone (sigh) so I’m looking for a similar combo. Microfine (similar to Microdol) is a single agent developer recommended for Acros so I used the same 10 minute/full strength recipe. Negs look nice, maybe 12 min would be better but I’m happy.
 
Oh, yeahhhhh!

My wife and I printed some 8x10s this morning. First time I've printed since high school decades ago. It felt so good to be free of a scanner and a computer and a digital printer. My wife had never experienced the analog workflow and she really enjoyed it too, though I limited our session to 1.5 hours.

:laugh:

Camera/lens: Nikon F2AS/28 f/2.8 AiS. FP4+ in Ilfosol 3. Ilford Multigrade developer, Arista EDU Ultra VC RC Paper (Pearl). For a cheap RC paper, the Arista was not bad at all, as in, I liked it. Lots of room for improvement, but the fun factor is off the charts!

Shout out to chip j for selling me a nice Schneider Componon S 50mm lens for my recently-acquired *free* Beseler Dichroic 67S.

ogLZbtz.jpg
 
A roll of 120 TMY-2 from the batches known to be prone to the wrapper offset problem. It was the first roll I tried in a new to me Brownie Hawkeye Flash. I am going to see if one of the frames will give me something good for the Toy Camera exchange.
Kodak Alaris has previously replaced the problem film with good stuff, but for experiments....
The camera is one designed for 620 but you can fit a 120 roll into the feed side.
 
This afternoon I've processed a 126 cartridge re-loaded with expired Fuji Pro 400H. I used Stearman Press SP-110EC dilution B for 6 minutes at 21c and fixed for 14 minutes.
I'm quite pleased because it was the first time I was re-loading 126 and it went well.
 
Ten rolls of Tri-X 400 120, two with replenished XTOL and the rest with Pyrocat HD in Glycol.
 
I've just finished developing a roll of Fuji Pro 400H (Exp '07) & a cartridge of Fuji Nexia 400 (Exp '07). I've used my Yankee Master with a freshly mixed Unicolor C-41 Press Kit.
My best temperature control so far, the tank stayed between 38.6/39c. Well, the negs will have colour shift since they're long expired but it's good practice. I haven't done C-41 in 10 months, I'm a bit rusty.
 
FP4+, 11x14, eight more to go...
 
I'm going through a series of different toner combinations on Fomatone paper. The Fomatone MG Classic 132 is a cream base, smooth semi matte, not a dead matte, slow chlorobromide paper. It's got a lot of chloride because it's very responsive to toning.
I've not done Lith printing but this seems like a great paper for such work. I've got to say Foma paper is very impressive. My usual papers are from Ilford, no complaints.
 
2 rolls of Superia X-Tra 400 developed with the Unicolor C-41 Press Kit + Kodak Final Rinse

Edit: I really need a bigger light-tight bag : / and a sous-vide heater would be nice.
 
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