what is the last thing you developed or printed

[GLS]

Fuji Acros 100 in Pyrocat HD, 1:1:100, 21.5 C, 14 mins, minimal agitation. Shot with Pentax 6x7 MLU and the SMC 55mm f4.

 

[DoryBreaux]

Death Valley
Mamiya 645Super, 80mm f2.8 lens. Delta 100@100, DDX, cropped in PS.

 

[pdeeh]

Been trying different plants for toning cyanotypes.

This week, a decoction of Ragwort (Senecio jacobaea). Native to and common in Europe, introduced in a few places in the USA.

Produces interesting colour ranging from a slight deep (can something be slight and deep? In my house, yes.) sort-of turquoise, to a rich dark green-blue, more the former than the latter, depending on age, dilution & time.

Freshly made, and used neat, it bleaches as well as tones.

Ragwort is interesting stuff, jammed with a variety of toxic alkaloids, so please, if you try this, don't go "Hmm I wonder what that tastes like?".

 

[Lucid]

This is a photo from this past Sunday. I plan to produce an 8x10 print as the negative scan I find doesn't give the most representative translation of the information contained in the negative. I'm sure with more effort in my scan settings I could get more information out of it, but alas I did not have enough time to do so.

This was taken on a role of Kodak Tri-X 400 35mm. I used a Hoya K2 (yellow) filter so I dropped to 200 and developed at 400. I use an LPL C7700 and I find it doesn't have the grunt to print dense negatives in reasonable time, so I am working to lower the contrast in the negative by reducing developing time. With that in mind I developed in D-76 concentrate which has sat for about a week, then mixed 1:1 with water about 1 hour before processing. Working solution temperature was 22C. Kodak recommended a development time of 8:30, but as I am experimenting to flatten out my negatives, I dropped to 8:00.

I used 500ml of working solution in a JOBO 1530 with two spare empty reels loaded to prevent any creep of the spiral out of the solution, as well as to aid mixing of the solution. Five inversions were given at the start followed by 3 inversions over 5 seconds at an interval of 25 seconds. Stop was Kodak Indicator Stop at 1:63 with constant agitation for 30 seconds. Ilford Rapid Fix was used at 1:4 with constant agitation for the first 30 seconds, followed by 3 inversions over 5 seconds at an interval of 25 seconds, with a total time in solution of 2:30. No hypo stage. Film was then washed for 10 minutes of running water at about 19C.

The resulting contrast of the negative appears to my eye as closer to what I am after. Still, I'll be back out this weekend with another couple rolls to continue tweaking. Any advice or feedback would be more than welcome.

 

[Lucid]

Fuji Acros 100 in Pyrocat HD, 1:1:100, 21.5 C, 14 mins, minimal agitation. Shot with Pentax 6x7 MLU and the SMC 55mm f4.

Such an awesome amount of detail in this. I really must make a point of working with acros before it all becomes to hard to find or too expensive to purchase.

 

[GLS]

Such an awesome amount of detail in this. I really must make a point of working with acros before it all becomes to hard to find or too expensive to purchase.

Thanks - you should see the full size version The superb 55mm lens certainly played its part too.

But yes Acros is amazing. Such a travesty that it's being discontinued. You should definitely try some, although there's always the danger that you will get hooked and have to stockpile it. I myself have recently bought 120 rolls of the stuff.

 

[removed account4]

couple of sunprint photograms with home made chlorobromide speed emulsion

 

[Sirius Glass]

The negative scanned well so spend your time learning to make a print with an enlarger and trays of chemicals. That is an art, not a plug and crank action.

 

[removed account4]

a round cyanotype that when washed and wet its whites are see-thru ..

 

[pdeeh]

7 little cyanotypes

 

[removed account4]

The negative scanned well so spend your time learning to make a print with an enlarger and trays of chemicals. <...>

or do whatever you want ... ?

===

2 rolls of 120 and 4 rolls of 135 in sumatranol130 split with a130

 

[pdeeh]

5 little cyanotypes

 

[NedL]

One "non-toxic" ( i.e. "futile" ) version of Hans Thøger Winther's bichromate positive process. I could just barely see the image during re-exposure this morning, and then it went away.

Gave new meaning to the word "ephemeral"... it verged on "imaginary" or "wishful thinking".

 

[pdeeh]

Hans Thøger Winther's bichromate positive process.

You have a knack for tracking down obscure processes, Ned
Any links you can post so I can learnz more?

 

[NedL]

You have a knack for tracking down obscure processes, Ned
Any links you can post so I can learnz more?

I don't think there are instructions online anywhere... here's a little blurb about Winther:
http://www.academia.edu/10208629/Hans_Thøger_Winther_-_A_Norwegian_Pioneer_in_Photography

I've tried to do his "third" process a few times using AFC followed by H2O2 instead of dichromate. Made a photogram, but so far it's too slow for in-camera.
This last try was 5+ hours of midsummer sun at F/4 and it wasn't enough. I've got one last idea to try still....

I'll type up instructions and PM them to you.... if anyone else chimes in here, happy to include in PM.

Edit: there are probably instructions here if you look around. Wlodek is who translated Winther's "little book" into English.

 

[mooseontheloose]

Printed 50+ contact sheets for film somewhat recently developed. Still have about 20 more rolls to go.

 

[Lucid]

Another two roles of roles of 35mm Tri-X 400. First time using hypo removal in my development process. I'm still learning on optimising the film/process, and what works to tri-x's strengths.

I'm still trying to lower the maximum density of the negative as well lower the contrast of the negative. (I hope this will provide a more ideal negative for my enlarger) I didn't nail it this time as I'd say I'm over cooking by two stops. Does anyone have experience with a Nikon F5's metering through filters, particularly a HAMA K2 yellow filter? I've been exposing at 200 and developing at 400. I think from next week I'll be exposing at 200 and developing at 400 (-20%). Developer used is fresh Kodak D-76 1:1

I've made a few contrast and exposure adjustments to this scan. Let me know what you think.

 

[Black Dog]

Another two roles of roles of 35mm Tri-X 400. First time using hypo removal in my development process. I'm still learning on optimising the film/process, and what works to tri-x's strengths.

I'm still trying to lower the maximum density of the negative as well lower the contrast of the negative. (I hope this will provide a more ideal negative for my enlarger) I didn't nail it this time as I'd say I'm over cooking by two stops. Does anyone have experience with a Nikon F5's metering through filters, particularly a HAMA K2 yellow filter? I've been exposing at 200 and developing at 400. I think from next week I'll be exposing at 200 and developing at 400 (-20%). Developer used is fresh Kodak D-76 1:1

I've made a few contrast and exposure adjustments to this scan. Let me know what you think.

If you're exposing the film at 200 instead of 400, then a 20% cut in development sounds like a good starting point. Some films may need 30% less, also you could try using a hand meter, though there shouldn't be an issue unless the filter is really strong, such as an opaque IR filter or similar.

 

[Lucid]

If you're exposing the film at 200 instead of 400, then a 20% cut in development sounds like a good starting point. Some films may need 30% less, also you could try using a hand meter, though there shouldn't be an issue unless the filter is really strong, such as an opaque IR filter or similar.

Thanks for that, I'll be sure to try it this weekend. Two weeks ago I did a 10% cut and I did notice an overall drop in density and a reduced contrast compared to a previous batch at the recommended development time. The negatives from the run two weeks ago didn't look pleasing to my eye, so I bumped back up to recommended development time. Thinking back though, I may have predominantly metered on the low mid tones rather than the shadows. I guess that could explain why my shadows looked light and my highlights overblown.

I'm keen to add a dedicated light meter to my armoury. Well, once my budget allows for it!

 

[pdeeh]

Two little salted-paper prints.
This has reminded me - once again - why I don't make salted paper prints ...

 

[NedL]

some of us are gluttons for punishment

 

[pdeeh]

Sick. You people are sick.

 

[NedL]

we can't hear you...la la la la la...
off to plant my flax seeds now... just no good linen paper available anywhere anymore...

 

[Pentode]

A dinky, little 12-exposure roll of years-expired Perutz SC100 cross-processed in Rodinal.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Whatever happened to shooting box speed, developing normally and not having problems. I am sure over exposing, underexposing, over developing and under developing should cause enough problems to wipe out the web pages' bandwidth.