what is the last thing you developed or printed

[nimajneb]

I developed two rolls of Kentmere 400 in HC-110 Dilution B the other day, still scanning the second roll. I haven't printed in about six months.

 

[NedL]

developing another calotype from Norway at this moment. Added smaller amount of AgNO3 ( just 4 drops of 24% ) and it's been going for 1h15m and looking pretty good -- shadow details are coming in but still good contrast. The other three of this kind have all been done in less than 1/2 hour, w/o enough density and starting to lose contrast when I stopped.

 

[Patrick Robert James]

Had time for a session with Moersch Carbon Toner yesterday:

View attachment 183692

Lars

The tone on the first two Lars is ausgezeichnet!

 

[LarsAC]

Thanks Patrick, the first may be Fomatone (more likely) or MGWT, not sure. The second is definitely MGWT. Third is ADOX MCC.

Lars

 

[WilmarcoImaging]

A roll of Portra 400 in 120 and a sheet of TMX in 4x5.

 

[G1DRP]

A roll of ORWO NP15 which expired in January 1993. It was quite fogged but I think I can still scan it and adjust the contrast sufficiently to get decent images from it.

 

[Vaughn]

Three sheets of 11x14 tonight/morning. A bit disappointing, but it was a bit of a test. Some Efke 100 IR film, supposively rated at 100 ASA. It hasn't seen a fridge in 6 or 7 years, fogged at the opposite-from-the-notched end (but not fogged in-camera). It needed at least a couple stops more, so closer to 12 to 25 ASA. I thought about modifying a darkslide to make 11x11 negatives. If I can get it to behave (exp & dev), the fogged portion would be well out of the image area. I have another 50 sheet box that hopefully is not fogged -- I'll do more testing with the fogged box.

Developer was Ilford PQ Universal Developer 1:9, 74F for 10 minutes...tray, constant aggitation. That should have cooked the film, but age might have affected the film and slowed it down. My exposure times were 30 seconds to several minutes....so reciprocity failure did not help me much either.

 

[klaus3428]

I think there's a special thread for this story ... but here it goes:
A week ago I developed three 4x5 HP5+negatives which I had used to take pinhole images of a local watermill, Pann Mill, which is still functioning, but is a museum now.They were all in the same tank. For some reason, as I was about to start the pre-soak, I unscrewed the top of the tank to let the water in!!! By the time I had realised what I had done - less (or more?) than a second - the negs were fogged. I developed them anyway "just in case" but it was a waste of time.
Thankfully, the mill is still there and I used my Bronica and an outdated roll of Neopan 400CN to repeat the shoot, with better conditions than for the pinhole (will try that one again too). An I certainly know what not to do next time .....

 

[Cholentpot]

Roll #35 through my C-41 kit. Still working. 11min dev, 16 min blix @ 102 or thereabouts.

 

[R.Gould]

Roll of 35mm fomapan 400, took it yeaterday while I was happily showing off one of my Classic cars, developed it this morning, and not a car on any frame, some Morris dancers, a horse, and somwe ukely players

 

[WilmarcoImaging]

The abovementioned sheet of TMX.

 

[WilmarcoImaging]

A roll of Portra 400 in 120.

 

[WilmarcoImaging]

A sheet of Portra 160 in 4x5.

 

[LarsAC]

Last week: 3 rolls of FP4+ and 2 HP5+, both 135 in Pyrocat. Two Acros in 120, also in Pyrocat.

One roll of HP5+ got stuck in the reel. Had to cut it and spool the remaining 10 inches or so on a seperate reel.

Looking forward to printing tomorrow.

Lars

 

[Vaughn]

In the middle of carbon printing -- calibrating my process for a different darkroom (I'll be giving a workshop here at the end of the month.) Prints still wet, and more to come.

Edited to add: Just finished and at 'home'. Twelve hour printing sessions were once bread and butter, but now a bit tougher!

Probably no keepers -- but I did not expect any (but still was hopeful!) Some fine-tuning on my glop (pigmented gelatin mixture) and off I'll go!

 

[jim10219]

I just finished up some 4 color gum/cyanotype prints. They turned out okay, but would have been better if I had used digital separations of a color image instead of in camera separations on B&W film. Also, I came to the conclusion I need to find a new red/magenta pigment. My old one is staining too much.

 

[WilmarcoImaging]

Two rolls of Portra 400 in 120.

 

[derek andrews]

My latest rolls were my first home developed ones! 1 hp5+, 1 tri-x and one TMAX 400. I went with massive dev chart times since it's my first time. All in rodinal 1:50 and stock speed.

Everything went fine, some kind of crud on one negative. I suppose it might be that the film was rolled a bit to tight on the reel. So nothing major.

Bought 10 rolls of tri-x 400, liked those results the most.

All the best!


Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk

 

[derek andrews]

Hi, my last roll was also my first after almost 30 odd years.

It was kentmere 100, developed in Rodinal 1 to 50 in a Paterson tank for 15 minutes. The most difficult part was keeping the temperature to 68. It kept dropping to 60 - 65, so I increased time to 20 mins.

Waiting for the film to dry but it looks fine. It's definitely not under developed or under exposed, but I can't remember the difference between an over exposed or over developed film? ( don't think its either)

 

[c41]

I had a productive weekend in the darkroom. Pushed out 20 or so 5x7 prints from the Rolleiflex, mostly beach people stuff.
I was working my way back through negatives from the most recent rolls, I made it a couple of months back to nearly catch up with myself.

I then had my first attempt at toning, using Ilford Selenium Toner on my Ilford MGFB (5x7) Matt paper.

2 minutes with 1:9 dilution seemed to work with minimal colour change.
3 minutes and I could see a pinky-purple colour change coming in, though looking again at my now dry prints in the cold light of day and they don't look as severe as they did at the time.
In direct comparison to untoned ones, the difference seemed more stark. My intention was to give them added richness/longevity, not a colour change.

I'm hoping my 2 minutes at 1:9 was enough to convert the silver, the next step is flattening them again and putting them in mats.

Congrats on your return to film Derek.

 

[Anders E]

Tried stand developing (for the first time) Kentmere 400 which I shot at 1600, in a metal tank. First time I ever used a metal tank.

1 hour in Rodinal 1+100 with 1 min initial agitation.

Tones came out pretty good but there are some very clear shrouding on the film. Also some scratch marks from me having some trouble using the metal reels. Now I gotta shoot some more 1600 and try to develop it conventionally and see which one feels better to me.

 

[WilmarcoImaging]

A sheet of Portra 160 in 4x5.

 

[rrusso]

Found a couple of funny keepers during scanning of a test/goof-off roll of D100 of my faithful subject (my dog).

So of course when I get everything dialed in, they'll get the full archival/toning treatment, 'cause she likes to be a superstar.

 

[MattKing]

Some postcards for the soon to be launched current round (hope I printed the right number).
And a 9"x14" enlargement from a 6x9 pinhole image - complete with local bleaching and sepia tone.

 

[mshchem]

Last night I printed a 9x12 (on 11 X14 ) of a very old abandoned bridge. It is inundated most of the time by a reservoir. I used a 6x7 negative from RZ, TMY, XTOL. Did split grade exposures, using my miracle Metrolux II, and the last version of a Zone VI /Calumet VC cold light. Printed on Ilford Art 300, Bromophen 1:3 , toned in Kodak rapid selenium toner 1:3. Part of this was proving to myself that I could use old school hardening fixer to keep the print from sticking to the belt on my Pako dryer. I used 2 bath Kodak F6 fixer 4 minutes in first and second bath. Went right from the fixer into hypo clear, for maybe a minute, then directly into the Se toner, toned lovely at 68F in 3-4 minutes.
All the rubbish about hardener in fixer and toning, bah humbug! It takes a little longer to tone. The hardener keeps the prints from harm while washing and drying.
Best Regards Mike