what is the last thing you developed or printed

Agulliver · Dec 5, 2016

I was in London over the weekend so decided to load up my newly acquired Agfa Super Sillette and shoot in the Tower Hill area. I was using a bulk loaded roll of Ilford HP5+ motion picture film, which expired in 1995.

Processed in ID-11 stock for 7 minutes....a little base fog but good results, some really nice photos of a church exterior. Good test run for the camera, and nice to know I have 200 feet of film I can "waste" on unimportant but fun things.

pdeeh · Dec 19, 2016

a short roll of Delta 100 (135) in d23 1;1

remember now that I had trouble with the loader (for which read: I made trouble with the loader).
it's only about 18 frames and 12 of them (really nice shots I took a lot of care over) are rendered scrap by thick parallel scratches deep in the emulsion.

there is quite a lot of grinding of teeth going on here.

a full roll from the same loading session is still in the camera , which doesn't exactly fill me with excited anticipation now.

this is almost as bad news as #Brexit ...

OptiKen · Dec 19, 2016

Testing for light leaks on my OM-2s - none found - (YEAH!)
Ultra Extreme 100 ASA - XTOL 1+1 (first time use of this developer)

Loved the tones and extremely fine grain achieved using this combination - reminded me of Pan F+
I may have used too little developer in my tank, however, as it looks like some air bells ran along the top edge of the film.

Raphael · Dec 21, 2016

Spent several hours (instead sleeping ) trying to get through enlarging negative by reversal, following Liam Lawless' process...
I made progress, but no success yet . I will probably call to APUGers collective wisdom..

pdeeh · Dec 21, 2016

oh good luck with that Raphael.
I found too much mess and bother for my tiny darkroom and limited facilities, so I gave up and now use the Bob Carnie-approved method of making contact dupe interpositives and enlarging from that.

Raphael · Dec 22, 2016

pdeeh said:
oh good luck with that Raphael.
I found too much mess and bother for my tiny darkroom and limited facilities, so I gave up and now use the Bob Carnie-approved method of making contact dupe interpositives and enlarging from that.

Thanks, pdeeh, I considered the interpositive route first, but was afraid of dust speck and spots, which would certainly be a problem with my current darkroom.
But I'm still open to any method giving chance of success
If the thread of interest is this one : (there was a url link here which no longer exists)
I will read it with great interest. Any others ?

REgards,

Raphael

pdeeh · Dec 22, 2016

Raphael said:
Any others ?

That thread contains a link to a really good discussion at LFPF.
There's also some other discussion here in thread by forum member Halford: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Yes, dust is a potential problem, but even I seem to have managed to produce a few big negatives without obtrusive specks. And if I can do it, anyone with a darkroom can do it

chassis · Dec 25, 2016

A frame of TXP 320 in D-76 1+2.

Mehrkornbrot mit Samen by _uplift_, on Flickr

TheFlyingCamera · Dec 25, 2016

Ive been away from silver gelatin enlarging for a while, so I decided it was time to get back into it (I've been on an alt-process binge for some time). The last few days I've been working on my images from my Italy trip, making some 7x7, 10x10, and 10x13 prints from various images, on Ilford MG Warmtone paper, using Ilford Warmtone developer.

removed account4 · Dec 25, 2016

made a couple of more sun prints thanks to film negatives
madey by my neighborhoot kinko's copy shop

Wayne · Dec 26, 2016

I made my first print since June 3, according to my not-always-accurate notes. I printed an HP5+ negative on Oriental VC/RC, and developed it in D-72 working solution that I mixed in June. It shouldn't have worked but it seemed to work fine.

pdeeh · Dec 26, 2016

roll of 135 delta 100 in Rodinal.

Is delta "the real deal"? :rolleyes:

Peter Schrager · Dec 26, 2016

Pdeeh...you can get off it...maybe someone else sees the world through their eyes..not yours..how are we to bring new groups into analog by being judgemental? ??..
Happy holiday!!
Best peter

Peter Schrager · Dec 26, 2016

Developing some delta 100..like the creamy look I'm getting...

pdeeh · Dec 27, 2016

Peter Schrager said:
Pdeeh...you can get off it...maybe someone else sees the world through their eyes..not yours..how are we to bring new groups into analog by being judgemental? ??..
Happy holiday!!
Best peter

You have me wrong.
Don't be judgmental towards me,
thanks

pdeeh · Dec 27, 2016

Actually, come to think of it, Peter, I'll "get on" whatever I like, thanks

NedL · Dec 27, 2016

All that went right over my head and I have a feeling it's just as well.

I've been generating salt print after salt print... all are either 5x7 or 5x8 using the same negative. Different papers and different sizing / sensitizing combinations, checking for fog, blotches, etc... Very interesting: if you use arrowroot sizing, it really has a tendency to sink into the paper, and because the amount absorbed is different with each kind of paper, the sensitizing solution needs to be tuned to the total amount of salt absorbed. It's easy to end up with too little silver if the paper absorbs a lot of arrowroot and salt.

Today's attempt is on Strathmore 500 drawing paper that was salt/sized with 4% arrowroot, 2% salt, and 0.2% citric acid.... I sensitized it with 1 coat of 16% silver nitrate, 33 drops altogether was not nearly enough. ( With 3.5% arrowroot, on this same paper, 34 drops of 12% AgNO3 was more than enough, but it would not print w/o double coating the sensitizer... small changes in the amount of arrowroot or how it is applied to the paper make a BIG difference ). So the print probably will have bad undercoated areas, but should be enough for me to tell if 16% AgNO3 will provide enough excess silver to actually make a print.

What I do know is that arrowroot sizing on this paper makes beautiful glowing highlights, so it's worth the time and trouble to see if I can make it work.

Agulliver · Dec 28, 2016

Do Polaroid prints count? I ran two packs of FP100c through my Polaroid 104 over Christmas.

I also dusted off my Durst M305, attached a new-to-me Jessops electronic timer and made some prints on 23rd December. Mostly from films I shot on holiday earlier this year but a few from 2002, of a friend at a night club. It's nice to do proper printing once in a while - and I rarely get the opportunity. I actually used outdated Tura VC paper, 5x7. I also trialled an ancient looking Photax print dryer, which I know is designed for FB prints but it worked a charm on the Tura RC paper. Each print would dry in the time it took me to expose, develop and wash the next.

Fun was had. Today I'm developing a roll of Ilford HP5+ motion picture film that I put through my Lomo Konstruktor kit camera over Christmas.

Ces1um · Dec 29, 2016

developed a roll of holga 400 (rebranded foma film) in new55 monobath. didn't turn out very well because my monobath was pretty much depleted.

Anon Ymous · Dec 29, 2016

TMax 100 in Perceptol 1+1 and came out very nice actually.

pdeeh · Dec 29, 2016

Acros 120 @200, 12mins in Caffenol-CM.
yum

pdeeh · Dec 31, 2016

AgfaVista200 @200, stand developed in Rodinal 1:100 for an hour.
Deep rich shadows, vivid highlights, exquisite sparkling grainless midtones.
Every frame heartbreakingly beautiful in composition and limpidity of emotional tone.
The Magic of Stand ...

NedL · Dec 31, 2016

pdeeh · Jan 4, 2017

Spent an hour or two making copies (positives) of a very favourit negative. It's already a bit scuzzy so I wanted to see if I could keep it going for a bit longer.
There's an obsession abroad in the film world with everything photographic being preserved and pristine, spotless.
I don't share the obsession.
I've preserved all the spots and blemishes on my negative the best as I can.
With a bit of luck I might have added a few more. Let's hope they all show up properly in the prints!

removed account4 · Jan 6, 2017

a cyanotype, as i type this made with a xerox/copyshop negative

what is the last thing you developed or printed

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