what is the last thing you developed or printed

MattKing · Feb 23, 2015

I'll try to bring this back on target ....

A few days ago I developed two rolls of potential shots for the current APUG Group Negative Exchange.

Today I made a contact proof sheet of each roll, and then a work print of the one that appeared to be the best choice.

I've decided on my negative for the exchange - now to get them ready for sending to the other participants.

amellice · Feb 23, 2015

last weekend I printed only one shot from 35mm roll, the shot was me, my wife an my 7 month old son in my home studio. Film was Ilford Delta 100 (nice film) developed using D-76 and I managed to get an 11x14 print on Ilford Multigrade. Though I'm not satisfied with it and wanted to make it better, I ran out of paper developer and waiting for this weekend to run to B&H and get new soup

NedL · Feb 24, 2015

Over the weekend I developed a roll of FP4+, and the negatives look perfect. My times are short for that film compared to "recommended', but these look great, can't wait to print them. There was a January day walking at the beach with magic light... usually I take maybe 0 or 1 or 2 or 3 photos in a day. 6 would be a "big day". I took 11 photos that day in about an hour and I think 10 of them look like ones I want to print. When people say the light is everythng, there's a lot of truth to it.

Yesterday I made a salt print, and it went all wrong... I put my calotype on upside-down ( Clive just had a thread about this! ) among other things.

pdeeh · Feb 24, 2015

Talking of putting things on upside down, I did start printing the other day with the negative underneath the paper. (Contrast control, y'know )

anyhoo, I tried taping my most recent prints to a glass door but they half-peeled off overnight and it left them more twisted and cockled than if I'd left them on the radiator. So I give 'em a good soak and then taped them to a bit of secondary glazing I'm not using at the moment.

The leftmost one is very ancient Kodak Bromide grade 1, the other two Agfa MC111. About 3 mins exposure and then about 35 mins in LD20. Different snatch points for the two AGfa, as you can guess.

Ghostman · Feb 24, 2015

Last night I developed 5 rolls of FP4 and 3 rolls of HP5.

I loaded all of the FP4 into one large can, 2 rolls per spindle, 3 spindles. The same for HP5, 2 rolls on one spindle.

One of the reasons why I love Ilford is that the curl of the base is not too bad and the thickness of the base is perfect for double-loading on a spindle

All of the above was developed in DDX.

nosmok · Feb 24, 2015

Another roll of 127 Verichrome Pan, expired in 1974, in Caf-C. Rated it at 32-- I read somewhere that VP was a 2 layer emulsion with a low speed and high speed part. After some misfires (what, unpredictable results on 40 years expired film? the horror!) it occurred to me that I should just act as though the low speed layer was PanX and was the only one still working. Came out great, though my spool loading technique still needs work.

Ghostman · Feb 25, 2015

Baobab tree, liquid emulsion on beautiful handmade Japanese paper.

TheToadMen · Feb 25, 2015

Ghostman said:
Baobab tree, liquid emulsion on beautiful handmade Japanese paper.

Beautiful! Did you coat the paper before you applied the liquid emulsion?

Bert from Holland
http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl

Ghostman · Feb 25, 2015

Hi Bert,

Thanks. I coated the paper with a fine layer of photo gelatin first. It kind of loses the texture of the paper, which is like raw silk. If it's not coated it would be difficult to apply the emulsion as the paper is so thirsty. Beautiful pinholes BTW - I took a look at your blog.

TheToadMen · Feb 25, 2015

Ghostman said:
Hi Bert,

Thanks. I coated the paper with a fine layer of photo gelatin first. It kind of loses the texture of the paper, which is like raw silk. If it's not coated it would be difficult to apply the emulsion as the paper is so thirsty. Beautiful pinholes BTW - I took a look at your blog.

Thanks for the explanation (and compliments). I thought you might have. It's the same with aquarel paper for alt photo processes. I recently bought me some different types of special Japanese (Washi) papers to experiment with and I'll use gelatin too.

Oscar Carlsson · Feb 25, 2015

During my last visit I produced two prints, one from a 35 mm neg (taken with my Olympus XA) and one from a 6x9 neg (taken with my Texas Leica...uhm...Fuji GW690III), both in 12x18 cm on 18x24cm paper (Adox MCC 110).

I'm running out of paper so I'm trying to figure out what size(s) to buy next. Should I stick with 18x24cm or go for 20x25cm? 18x24cm works really well for 35 mm images while 20x25 works better for square prints (which is what I prefer).

My life is hard.

pdeeh · Feb 25, 2015

You could buy 20x25 and a pair of scissors

Ian Grant · Feb 25, 2015

Finally processed some film I shot last summer while in Turkey the 5x4 HP5 was fine however the 120 Pan F had been left unprocessed too long despite giving 20% extra development very thin negatives, luckily the images weren't important.

Ian

amellice · Feb 25, 2015

Ghostman said:
Baobab tree, liquid emulsion on beautiful handmade Japanese paper.

this looks lovely

Thomas Bertilsson · Feb 25, 2015

Ian Grant said:
Finally processed some film I shot last summer while in Turkey the 5x4 HP5 was fine however the 120 Pan F had been left unprocessed too long despite giving 20% extra development very thin negatives, luckily the images weren't important.

Ian

Sorry to hear of it, Ian, even though they were not important. Put some FP4 in the camera next time.

Ian Grant · Feb 25, 2015

Thomas Bertilsson said:
Sorry to hear of it, Ian, even though they were not important. Put some FP4 in the camera next time.

It was my own fault, I just didn't have my new darkroom ready until the last week or so and tanks etc were packed away. I realised that I'd probably have lost the Pan F negatives due to poor latent image stability after the length of time. I also realised there were far to many red indicator lights, on the heater, extension leads etc you don't really notice until you've been loading dilm in the dark for a few minutes.

I think what amazed me was printing after a break of over 2 years (I'd sold my house and didn't have a darkroom at my mothers). The first prints were ona Foma paper I'd not used before but a negative I know prints well. I dialed in 30M did one test strip at 10 seconds far too light, so I opened up a stop and did a second at 16 seconds and it was spot on,there was a third of a sheet left in the packet so I used it to test the burning in. Then I opened a new packet (all from recent ebay purchase & same batch) and made the 20+ prints I needed. Very rewarding.

Ian

JPJackson · Feb 25, 2015

4 sheets of (5x7) FP4+ in D76 1:1; look good to the eye and will know more tomorrow when i proof them. Scenes of snow in the yard.

Mainecoonmaniac · Feb 25, 2015

Does toning count? I've been using thiorea brown toner to tone my work from South East Asia. It's a look I've been looking for.

Oscar Carlsson · Feb 26, 2015

Mainecoonmaniac said:
Does toning count? I've been using thiorea brown toner to tone my work from South East Asia. It's a look I've been looking for.

Toning does count. That is what I'm planning to do during my next visit anyways

pdeeh · Feb 26, 2015

Roll of acros (135), pushed a stop in caffenol c

MattKrull · Feb 26, 2015

5 rolls of Plus-X (some at 500 in D76, some at 80 in Rodinal) that I shot last summer. All being printed on 5x7 RC paper.

heespharm · Feb 26, 2015

Test roll of trix 120 from a Fuji gs646 had some light leaks I fixed.... Hc110 dil.h. 9min at 20C

Edit: and just pulled out of washing rinse... Yup, light leaks fixed..

Truzi · Mar 1, 2015

It's been a while, but I finally dug out my equipment and developed, in 35mm:
2 rolls of Rollei 400S
1 roll Tri-X
1 roll HP5+

Made some loading mistakes I've not made since I was a beginner, but otherwise have benefitted from my time on APUG - less dust and I don't see any drying marks (and I didn't even use photoflo).

NedL · Mar 1, 2015

Just finished developing a calotype. It is washing now.

Oscar Carlsson · Mar 2, 2015

Truzi said:
Made some loading mistakes I've not made since I was a beginner, but otherwise have benefitted from my time on APUG - less dust and I don't see any drying marks (and I didn't even use photoflo).

Any advice to share? I'm still getting drying marks but only sometimes, and I use photoflo which I thought would remedy the situation. :/

what is the last thing you developed or printed

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