There is also an 8 bit TIFF file type.Wouldn't the 16-bit vs 8-bit be totally dependent upon the OUTPUT FILE type selection? Inherently, TIFF = 16-bit, while JPG = 8-bit
Yes, was aware of that option. My point was if JPG is selected, there is no option for 16-bit.There is also an 8 bit TIFF file type.
I don't know about microfilm. The grain in microfilm is extremely fine. My fear is that it might be too fine to provide effective dithering, in which case banding might be a possibility. It would require testing, but it looks like your results already effectively provide a test, and it seems that banding is possible with that film. However, I am told that photoshop elements only works in 8 bit mode, not 16 bit mode, so you can't convert the files to 16 bit mode to edit them. That provides a confounding issue, so it is still probably up in the air whether 8 bit scanning is sufficient for that film (24 bit color is 8 bit in each channel, as you probably already know.)@alanrockwood, I have been scanning pictorial contrast B/W negatives on microfilm with Silverfast SE8.8 48->24 bit color and editing the files with Photoshop Elements.
Is scanning B/W 48-> 24 bit a pointless ?
I have only ever got banding trying to edit pics with both reflected sunlight on the sea [banding in the sky] and dark areas in the same shot. Thanks.
As for my statement that 60 dpi vs 300 dpi will produce different images, well, that's approaching axiomatic in nature-- Most will tell you that (digital) prints need to be at least 300 DPI for a standard viewing distance. You can get away with lower resolution for larger viewing distances, but still-- 60 DPI is pretty weak for current technology, unless you're doing some form of halftone.
Most 60-70" 4K HDTVs have a pixel density in the 60-70 ppi range and pretty much nobody says 4K TVs don't look sharp, and that's with HD content so it's actually even less effective PPI than that. True, if you want to get close, you want to get more pixels per inch, but a 65" diagonal picture is way bigger than what most people can realistically print without spending a really large amount of cash to even produce physical outputs that big. Strangely, the resolution you need to make a super sharp 11x14 print that you can hold in your hands is about the same amount of MP that looks great on a big 4K TV.
Don't get me wrong, I'm generally all for more resolution, however, there is definitely a point of diminishing returns when it comes to pixel densities, and more often than not, people get caught up in the "more, bigger, better" without realizing just how few pixels are actually needed.
Absolutely agree-- but again, with the 4K TV, you're not looking at it that close-- standard viewing distance is supposed to be what, 12 feet?
Also, there's an argument that 4K TV's are useless under 55", because the human eye supposedly can't resolve the difference between 4k and 1080p at 12 feet. And I heard much the same arguments against 1080P units 10 years earlier.
Subjectively, my 49" 4K TV looks better than my 46" 1080P TV did. Could be it's made out of sugar and my brain can't really tell, though.
I have a 75" 4K TV and normally sit 14' from it. I've made 2k (1920x1080) slide shows vs the same pictures at 4K ( resolution 3840x2160). You really can;t see the difference between the two at 14' but can at about half that distance.
Also, when saving jpegs, use very high-quality saves to reduce artifacts. When I do slide show converted into 4K video, I rez each picture to 4K (3840x2160) and save at the highest quality before integrating into a video. If you go up to the screen, you can see each pixel by pixel elements when at 4K.
If you want to compare 2k vs 4K on your smart TV here are two. Make sure you set the bandwidth to 4K or 2K as applicable before viewing on your TV.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCGsByP1B3q1EG68f4Yr2AhQ
4K Regency Muscle and Antique Car Show video
2K Regency Men;s club at Middlesex Fire Academy.
When it comes to prints, a 3840 x 2160 file really only reaches 13" x 7.5" if you are aiming for 300 dpi, so that highlights how important the presentation choice is.
Dynamic range is not highly dependent on the bit depth of the analog to digital converter
without having to worry about a potential shortage of pixels.
My digital camera shoots stills at 19mb. So when I reduce the image to 4K for slide shows, it allows me to crop around 11mb from the original image file, a very handy feature. Of course, when I throw in video clips, those are at 4K. Interestingly, you can crop 4k video clips as well and not see the difference sitting far back at normal viewing distance.Absolutely, the closer you sit, the easier it is to see the difference. My viewing distance is just past the "screen door" effect. If I sit closer, I can see the "screen door", but farther back just makes for a smaller picture. The thing that gets me (and what probably trips a lot of people up), is on paper, the difference between 1080p and 4K is literally 4x the number of pixels. Logically, you'd think the difference would be night and day when looking at it, but again, in practice, at typical viewing distances, it's just not as big of a difference as you'd think, and can be totally fubarred by stuff like what quality you saved the jpeg at, which you noted. There is benefit to having stuff at 4K, or in the 8+MP range, but going really high resolution (30+ MP) just gives you cropping ability, it's not going to significantly increase visible fidelity unless you're output is super large and super high resolution and you're expecting people to look at it up close and personal.
Ahhh… NO. You can capture a little more DR than the bit depth your AD converter is through what is effectively dithering in the source, which you’ve been exploring here in this thread, but, you won’t be capturing 16 stops of Linear DR with an 8bit AD. A 16 bit AD has trouble actually capturing a full 16 stops because of noise, an 8 bit AD with the same 16 stop signal just bottoms out. The way AD converters are designed is from maximum signal down, not the other way around, so if both 8 and 16 bit AD converters are design to handle 1.0-0.0 Volts, at 1 volt, the 8 bit AD will output 255, the 16 bit AD will output 65535, cut the voltage in half, get half the numeric value. Do that more than 8 times and the 8 bit AD just keeps outputting a zero and the 16 bit AD keeps outputting a smaller numeric value until it also bottoms out. Now you can add dithering in the form of analog noise in the source being sampled that moves some of that signal up so that it registers numeric values (kind of like a crude analog tone mapping), but that will only get you so far before the noise overwhelms the signal and all you’re capturing is the noise, thus reducing your total captured DR. A little bit gives you a little extra DR, but it’s self defeating above a certain point.
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