We have slightly different understandings of hyperfocal - I thought that if you focused on a point (say 45m), the hyperlocal focusing numbers were the near and far distances in focus at a given aperture (say 25m to ∞). But its all good - as long as ∞ is covered.
Post #73 to review how it works. Reading both Hy6 and MZ54 manuals won't really tell one what to do.
Rollei at one time had a vacuum back for the 6000 series to help with film flatness.
The paper is not standardized, or may not even be present (220)
I specifically bid on a Mz54 just because it was shown with the accessory light-reducing filter. But it was not in the box when I received the flash, though, the ebayer did give $10 back. But I'm still without the filter on either of my flashes.
That is exactly my understanding. Maximizing the range of distances that are in focus (the depth of field) at a given aperture (let's say a = closest point in focus, c = farthest point in focus, and b = focus point), means maximizing c-a, which one can understand as c-b + b-a (splitting the distances is useful because mathematically infinity minus anything finite is still infinity and comparing infinity to infinity is undefined.). One needs first to make sure that c=∞, because that way an infinite c-b (resp. c-a) is always larger than a finite c-b (resp. c-a), whatever the (finite) value of b (resp. a). The second step is to minimize a, without removing c=infinity.As I understand hyperfocal distance, it is the distance that the lens is focused to which results in the largest range - closest to farthest - where subjects are in acceptable focus.
If you look at the related calculations you will see that you will get that result when the farthest distance in the calculation is effectively infinity.
I remember reading the AF on the 6008AF wasn't that fast or great. The Hy6 Mod2 is far superior, even compared to the original. That's what I've read--I only have experience with the Hy6 Mod2.I have only had a few moments to assess my new 6008AF. Right off the bat I noticed that the shutter button at first seems sometimes un-responsive. This is from being in the "SINGLE" AF mode. I'm so used to using "SINGLE" AF mode on the Hy6 and nearly instantly hitting the focal point. The 6008AF takes a little longer, thus it lock out the shutter release a little longer. Plus there are more items where it can't find the exact point. So if the "F" in the viewfinder is blinking and the shutter is not releasing, it is because it can't find the focal point.
I only use AF "on demand" --that is with the camera set to MF and activating AF with the button above the mode selector. That way the focus is set and you can use mirror lock-up and the self-timer.As I'm pouring over negatives to print I have discovered two sources of focus errors that are related to the user.
1) Self Timer--No pre-timer autofocus
2) Mirror Lockup--No pre-mirror up autofocus
So, in these two cases one needs to use manual focus.
I'm still looking for a workaround for the self timer issue. Using the self-timer is one of the reasons to have an autofocus camera in the first place.
Nice.I only use AF "on demand" --that is with the camera set to MF and activating AF with the button above the mode selector. That way the focus is set and you can use mirror lock-up and the self-timer.
Little bit if a lens nightmare. I have way too many lenses and not enough lenses that do what I want to do. For a system that is backward compatible, there are a lot of incompatibilities. This has led me to duplicate almost all my focal lengths.
What fits what as of today. The ones in BOLD are the only matchings that really make sense. So, although the 6008AF takes all my lenses, none of them make any sense on that camera as it requires the AF lenses with the aperture ring .
6008i : SLX 40mm**, SLX 120mm**, PQ 80, PQ 40, PQ 50
6008AF: SLX 40mm**, SLX 120mm**, PQ 80, AFD 80*, AFD 50*, PQ 50
Hy6: AFD 80, AFD 50, PQ 50, PQ 40, PQ 80
*No aperture control
**Stop-down metering
If I had to keep only one, I would find it more difficult to make a choice, for the following reasons. I will begin with the reasons I’d choose Hy6 over 6008 then switch:Comparing the 6008AF to Hy6, yes the 6008AF has some of the finest manufacturing of just about any camera ever made, with better fit-and-finish than the Hy6. But the Hy6 is a much easier to use camera. The light weight is paramount and the AF is better.
If I had the money I'd have two Hy6 and get rid of all the 6008 stuff.
I have resorted to a small strip of black artist's tape (it comes off easily and doesn't leave any residue) with the film type written on it with a silver sharpie. I put that on the handle so it is very obvious what is in the camera. When I change film type that tape goes on the film insert carrying case.Another drawback of the new film magazines is that there is no way to put a piece of paper with the film name inside the magazine when changing films, so it’s easy to forgot the type of film one had (I use a small piece of plastic glued to the magazine top for that, but the adhesive isn’t strong and it has a tendency to fall off)
The AFD lenses fit on the 6008i and work in program and shutter priority auto, but I get occasional shutter error, so maybe it is not a good idea. (Now I see it is because my AFD are also PQS and using PQS on older 6008 is not good due to higher battery draw, this is giving the shutter errors,)
To return to the film plane of Hy6. Going from 0.7 to 0.3 is MASSIVE in its effect. Many exposures of my first rolls were pretty useless due to focus in front. Now all my negatives have perfect focus. No issues at all, and I have not even set the AF offset with tests. I just made sure infinity was as it should be and, under the assumption the camera is setup perfect from the factory, the rest of the focusing falls into place as it should.
...
To me all of these pluses and minuses on each side mean it would be really a hard choice if I had to sell one..
Here is another chart. I think that one above is meant to indicate there will be limitations in function.
I'm also noticing a high pitched chirp when using the AFD lenses on the 6008AF, so I'm going to stop doing this, even though the do fit and autofocus and seem to function OK in auto mode. Also, the shutter won't close when using the mirror up.
View attachment 258811
The good news is Key Camera in Colorado does service the 6008. The bad news is he is the only one, so it can take a while if he gets too busy. I don't know if he services the Hy6, but he does work on AFD lenses. The Hy6 might have to go back to Germany.How about servicing them? I think I read somewhere that there is at least one place in the US that can service 6008 series cameras. I would consider that a plus.
The good news is Key Camera in Colorado does service the 6008. The bad news is he is the only one, so it can take a while if he gets too busy. I don't know if he services the Hy6, but he does work on AFD lenses. The Hy6 might have to go back to Germany.
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