And misunderstand its use.
Rollei Infrared exposure with Hoya r72
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And misunderstand its use.
Yes, way too much of that.
care to elaborate? i've always used it in situations where i can measure light falling on objects in a scene. for landscapes with distant features, it seems less useful.
ok, here are two more shots - these were on my Chamonix 4x5 with a 6x9 roll film back. the lens was tested not too long ago, and shutter speeds found to be accurate.
the first shot (trees) was metered at 50 and that exposure transferred to camera with no further adjustment. the second, with the trees and far wall, was metered and exposed at 100; the sun was just beginning to break out here.
the first shot (trees) was metered at 50 and that exposure transferred to camera with no further adjustment. the second, with the trees and far wall, was metered and exposed at 100; the sun was just beginning to break out here.
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Exactly. Some people treat it almost like a religious rite without really grokking what they do.
Even heard of someone pointing the dome towards the subject.
Incident can be fine for landscape if you have relatively homogeneous light and you are not in shade, or even the rare occasion where you are in more light than the rest.
Much faster and often more precise than spot metering various points.
So what is it that people do wrong exactly when they use an incident light meter.?
Thanks
pentaxuser
People aim it from where they are standing to the subject rather then from the subject to the camera. Some have even state that they incident meter does not give them the proper reading when they aimed it straight up at the sky.
Another classic is shading the dome with your own shadow.
Or placing the dome in the subjects shade.
Thinking you have to point the dome into the light (which can be correct if you want a certain look).
Not noticing patterns of shadows over the subject. Such as a window mullions or branches.
Not taking into account rapidly changing light.
Not thinking about what it is you want to prioritize when shooting low dynamic range film, and not thinking about the subjects colour and tonal range.
Dark fur needs a stop or two more if it’s important.
Snow will need about two stops down to not blow out on slide.
Thinking of the dome as a small face that you want to place correctly in the light in front of the camera, helped me to begin with.
Thank you!
Yes - coming from slides, I watch my highlights and dislike them being ugly blown. Shadows are somewhat tamed by reduced agitation frequency.
3 seems very low for 200. Do you meter including the sky?
It is expired, and although it aged extremely well, it still lost about half a stop or so in 11 years. ISO 6 is fine, but I have found you can get more detailed images with ISO 3. On a sunny day, it’s still a pretty manageable speed, so I’m just gonna stick with it.
Interesting. 6 is too low for me too. But then mine is fresh. How’s the contrast? Have you compared it to fresh?
I too find ISO 6 a bit overexposed and the highlights tend to be burnt out.
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