Rollei Digibase C-41

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hrst

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Well, it probably works if it has most of its volume left. It shouldn't be sensitive to air. And it seems improbable that something unwanted has gone into the bottle.
 
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steelneck

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The bottle is half full,

In my kit the stab-bottle was also just a bit more than half full, but all bottles was in a plastic bag, so i could see that there was no leakage, everything was dry. I think that it is supposed to be half full since the stab have so much more capacity. 100ml would be enough for 60 films.

I got developer, bleach and fix for about 20-25 films, and i got stab for about 30-35 films despite the bottle being a bit more than half full.
 

hrst

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Stabilizer/final rinse has a high capacity really, but there's a drawback, you have to be even more careful and even more thorough in final wash as any residual chemicals (fixer) accumulates in final rinse if reused too much. This is true to any gunk, so you get higher possibility of dust marks etc. the more you reuse. As the final rinse / stabilizer is quite cheap, it's wise to change it as much as possible.
 

mikecnichols

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In my kit the stab-bottle was also just a bit more than half full, but all bottles was in a plastic bag, so i could see that there was no leakage, everything was dry. I think that it is supposed to be half full since the stab have so much more capacity. 100ml would be enough for 60 films.

I got developer, bleach and fix for about 20-25 films, and i got stab for about 30-35 films despite the bottle being a bit more than half full.
I developed with this for the first time and I am pleased with the results. Can't wait till I get in the groove of using. Definitely need to update my downstairs faucet.
 

"B"

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So, I, like everyone else experienced leakage from the bottles. This must be some kind of joke? When I got it everything looked fine, I developed a few rolls, excellent results.

Fast forward to a few days ago. I'd been gone for around a week or so on a trip and came home ready to develop a few rolls of 120. Part C of my developer is jet black. What gives?

Perhaps I'll order another kit, hopefully it won't leak on the way here, and upon arrival I'll put it in air tight containers...
 

mikecnichols

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A couple of questions, I did not have a water bath between bleach and fix.....does this compromise further use of the fix? It's been five years since I have done self developing and that was B&W which is a bit different. I went by the instructions presented by Rollei....but will add a water bath between Bleach & Fix from now on.
 

mikecnichols

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I can officially say that the results from my first attempt at home processing C-41 went well overall. There were things that can go better next time, but I definitely am ready to process some more.

You can take a look at the results here: http://mikecnichols.livejournal.com/68630.html

Biggest issue were artifacts left on the film, but I think adding the water baths will diminish that greatly.
 

mikecnichols

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A couple of questions, I did not have a water bath between bleach and fix.....does this compromise further use of the fix? It's been five years since I have done self developing and that was B&W which is a bit different. I went by the instructions presented by Rollei....but will add a water bath between Bleach & Fix from now on.
Bump?
 

Jerry Thirsty

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Got my first Digibase kit; mine leaked also

I just got my first Digibase kit today, and mine is all black from leaking chemical as well.

http://thirsty.smugmug.com/photos/1021689078_W26cG-L.jpg

It appears to be bleach, since that bottle has some liquid around the neck and threads that's still yellow. Does the bleach turn black after extensive oxidation? I dumped the contents into a beaker and measures about 130ml, so it would appear I lost 10ml. I will contact Freestyle to complain, even though it's probably not a problem (other than the mess). But Rollei needs to get their $#!t together.
 

michaelbsc

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Jerry Thirsty said:
I just got my first Digibase kit today, and mine is all black from leaking chemical as well.

http://thirsty.smugmug.com/photos/1021689078_W26cG-L.jpg

It appears to be bleach, since that bottle has some liquid around the neck and threads that's still yellow. Does the bleach turn black after extensive oxidation? I dumped the contents into a beaker and measures about 130ml, so it would appear I lost 10ml. I will contact Freestyle to complain, even though it's probably not a problem (other than the mess). But Rollei needs to get their $#!t together.

I don't know. I haven't tried C41 yet. But my understanding is the the bleach needs oxygen to stay fresh. Just the opposite of developer.

Someone a few years ago was posting about using an aquarium air pump and stone to aerate the bleach.

MB
 

Jerry Thirsty

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I don't know. I haven't tried C41 yet. But my understanding is the the bleach needs oxygen to stay fresh. Just the opposite of developer.

Someone a few years ago was posting about using an aquarium air pump and stone to aerate the bleach.

MB

Yeah, I know, I used to aerate that way myself. I'm not sure what else it would react with. It turned black everywhere it went, on both the plastic and the paper labels.
 

mikecnichols

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I just got my first Digibase kit today, and mine is all black from leaking chemical as well.

http://thirsty.smugmug.com/photos/1021689078_W26cG-L.jpg

It appears to be bleach, since that bottle has some liquid around the neck and threads that's still yellow. Does the bleach turn black after extensive oxidation? I dumped the contents into a beaker and measures about 130ml, so it would appear I lost 10ml. I will contact Freestyle to complain, even though it's probably not a problem (other than the mess). But Rollei needs to get their $#!t together.

That's like the replacement one I received when the first one I received had leakage from the stabilizer. I'm assuming it is the bleach and that it should be okay. Luckily this time, the chems did not leak onto the instructions. Remember that you probably want to add water baths after bleaching and after fixing.
 

peri24

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thanks Greg! this is really helpful!! after reading posts i was waiting for your feedback.
 

kwiksotic

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Devoping times for digibase C41 MIDI kit.

Does anyone have a source for development times of Fuji and Kodak films in Digibase C-41. Also, does anybody have any experience crossing slide film in Digibase C-41. I also need to push several rolls. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

RobertV

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For push processing +1F add 30 seconds for the C41 developer.

For cross processing you can keep the standard times. Only some E6 films you have to expose a bit different.

Rollei C41 digibase works very well. I made the replacement for Amaloco K54 (mono-negacolor) which is not produced anymore. The orange mask in K54 was pretty strong so which is less in Digibase C41. It seems to be that the seperate components can be kept for some years. Component C is then the most critical part of the C41 developer.
 

Mark Antony

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I don't know if this helps anyone but I have times and temps for bog standard C41 process (this is from Fujitech dated 2008) in tank process.

Developer 3min 15 sec at 37.8ºC ±0.5°C
Bleach 6min 30 sec at 37.8°C ±3°C
Wash 1min 5 sec at 35°C ±5°C
Fixer 6min 30 sec at 37.8°C ± 5°C
Wash 3 min 15 sec at 35°C ± 5°C
Stabilizer 1min 5 sec 25-40°C

It doesn't give agitation times but from memory developer had a nitrogen burst about 3 times per min, bleach needed constant air, in fact to condition bleach shake it in a half full bottle before process.
Wash rates are 2500ml per film-I guess that's a minimum. These are from Fuji tech bulletin C41 version E10 (09/08)

Mark
 
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RobertV

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A complete data sheet (in English and German language) with times, dilutions and possible Paterson/Jobo tanks volumes in inverse and rotation is supplied with the Digibase C41 chemicals. Also syringes in different volumes are supplied together with each new C41 kit.
 

mikecnichols

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A complete data sheet (in English and German language) with times, dilutions and possible Paterson/Jobo tanks volumes in inverse and rotation is supplied with the Digibase C41 chemicals. Also syringes in different volumes are supplied together with each new C41 kit.

Yes they are and are VERY helpful, but the missing key were the water baths. I would assume 4 fills and empties for after bleach and 8 after fix would work too.
 
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First time Color Developing

I recently purchased the digibase and unicolor 10 roll kits for my first foray into color developing. I found that the digibase was much less forgiving in terms of agitation and temperature. A five second error on the digibase could mean disaster, especially where the colors are concerned. I found that many of my negatives in kodak gold and fuji films had a marvelously saturated blue, and nearly looked as though they had been cross processed. The unicolor presented much more consistent results, as far as the negative went, but they also produced less dramatic colors, and tended to be more balanced toward the red.
I intend to re-purchase the digibase kit to see if I can attenuate the temperature more accurately, as I assume I have made an error somewhere. But my advice is, if you havent used Color chemicals before, use the Unicolor kit, as It is more forgiving on both temperature and agitation.
The digibase tended to froth in a 2 spool plastic tank and create bubbles on the film. I imagine if it is the 'newest and best' that with some practice, I can probably get amazing results from it. :cool:
 
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