Praktica L serie - Repair Thread

[Helios 1984]

Hi guys,

I've been scrolling down the net to find a servicing guide for my Praktica L-2, unfortunately most links with useful information are permanently unavailable. I thought we should gather information (PDF, Videos, Pictures etc etc) on how to fix these cameras, there is still a lot of them out there and I'm sure more than a few persons would be glad to know how to repair them.

Here's what I dug up so far:

Shutter speed selector disassembly by Zoltán Kelemen, on Flickr.



Advance lever disassembly


Hotshoe disassembly


Rewind lever disassembly.


and here is a full video of the disassembly and reassembly of a TL500, it's in russian but still very
informative.

 

[kwm]

I have the "Praktica L" service manual in german language but the file is to big to be uploaded here.

Karl

 

[Helios 1984]

Here's the factory speeds in milliseconds and the tolerances in % for the L serie.

Thank you to kwm for providing me with the servicing manual.

 

[Helios 1984]

Servicing Manual for the Praktica L serie

I uploaded the PDF of the servicing manual provided by kmw.
Here's the link, it is in German but with patience it's translatable.

Note: The pages below are missing, if someone has them, please share them with us.

 

[AgX]

How is the plastic ring fixed within the M42 aluminium ring? Just plain glued with rubber cement?

I ask as the threaded ring has more holes than even the electrical inner ring would necessitate. Such hints at studs at the plastic insert. Also the insert is perfectly centered.

(I guess this a academic question as it would not much change the way of approch, though studs likely raise even more the chances to harm the rings.)

 

[Helios 1984]

I just found this very complete disassembly guide for Praktica of the L serie --------> Link Here

-------------------

Aslo this interesting picture of a disassembled TL25 (MTL5)

 

[AgX]

Thank you!

(Though my current issue is not covered.)

Concerning the use of contact cement for removing the discs, I considered in the past using hot-melt instead. I did not try it so far. But freeing the discs again should be more easy, just use a heat gun, scrape them off with something smooth and clean them with some solvent.

 

[Helios 1984]

How is the plastic ring fixed within the M42 aluminium ring? Just plain glued with rubber cement?

I ask as the threaded ring has more holes than even the electrical inner ring would necessitate. Such hints at studs at the plastic insert. Also the insert is perfectly centered.

(I guess this a academic question as it would not much change the way of approch, though studs likely raise even more the chances to harm the rings.)

No glue or rubber cement, it hold in place like a lens cap.
Set your shutter on B, open the back of the camera, press and hold the shutter (if you have a release cable with a lock, that would help).
From behind the camera, you'll see 2 holes on the upper part of the mount. Gently push thru these holes with a small hex key and pop out the ring just enough so you can slide a small flat screwdriver under the ring.

Disclaimer: The ring is made of hard plastic so it is only flexible to a certain extend, do not try to pop in entirely as it may break or chip.

Note: Tested on my spare Praktica L-2.

 

[AgX]

Very helpful !!

As said, I thought about those holes, seen at extracted parts. But I thought they all where covered by the mirror box frame. In general inspection likely they vanished from my sight in the shadow of the mirror box.
And seemingly I did not look again...

In my sample the threaded ring got somewhat loose in its upper part. Something I yet only can experience with long lenses mounted, due to leverage.
What may be a point in checking bodies!

 

[Helios 1984]

Yesterday, I finally decided to open my Praktica L2 to find out what was wrong with its defective frame counter.
I found out that the Reset Pawl was on the wrong side of the metal disk which caused the frame counter mechanism to constantly reset.

Note: On the image below, I've properly re-positioned the Reset Pawl.

Also, you might have noticed that the frame counter reset way too far, 6 frames too far to be more precise.
This is a factory defect, the frame dial was incorrectly glued to the gear of the frame counter.
I didn't want to risk breaking the gear by separating it from the frame dial to reglue it. I've worked around the problem by simply firing the shutter twice, then rotated the part with the white arrow to align it with the 1.

Note: Frame counters of my Praktica L and Praktica L2 side by side.

 

[AgX]

Also, you might have noticed that the frame counter reset way too far, 6 frames too far to be more precise.

In the state of the door having been openend and camera not yet cocked again the counter should be at -3.
Yours is at -5, thus only 2 frames off.

Or do I overlook something?

 

[markjwyatt]

I have an LTL3 which has a light leak. I am thinking it is the felt near the door latch (which is very thin and light and was not stuck on well). What do you find the most critical seals tom replace?

 

[Helios 1984]

I have an LTL3 which has a light leak. I am thinking it is the felt near the door latch (which is very thin and light and was not stuck on well). What do you find the most critical seals tom replace?

Last time I had a leak, it came from the bottom of the door. I use self adhesive felt for the hinge seal and the 2 little pieces on each side of the latch, and craft foam for the interstices of the door.

 

[foc]

I have replaced the felt beside the door hinge on an MTL 3 with the felt taken off a film cassette and it worked perfectly.

 

[Helios 1984]

I have replaced the felt beside the door hinge on an MTL 3 with the felt taken off a film cassette and it worked perfectly.

Any picture? : )

 

[markjwyatt]

Thanks Helios 1984 and foc!

 

[Helios 1984]

In the state of the door having been openend and camera not yet cocked again the counter should be at -3.
Yours is at -5, thus only 2 frames off.

Or do I overlook something?

You are correct. I should have fired the shutter 3 times than aligned the arrow with the 1.
I got mixed up with the frame counter of my Spotmatic which starts with 0 after clearing the first 2 wasted shots.
Oh well, now the frame counter of my Praktica will show the number of the next frame.

 

[Wayne_S]

Hi, I have a Praktica LTL that has suddenly developed an issue with the shutter.
I can cock the shutter, but then there's a "click" and the flag in the viewfinder reappears, indicating that it isn't cocked. The wind lever is stuck and the shutter release button doesn't seem to do anything.
The interesting thing is that the shutter does seem to be cocked, because I can fire it when holding down the shutter release and pressing down on the round peg on the left that activates the meter and aperture.
Removing the top plate suddenly remedied the problem, but only from time to time, it still manifests itself every couple of tries.
This leads me to think it's a problem with the shutter release button, as the shutter is cocked every time, and the speeds seem to be correct (with the button working or not).

Is this a known issue, and does anyone know how to remedy it? Or would it be better to retire the camera to a display?

 

[russell_w_b]

Also, you might have noticed that the frame counter reset way too far, 6 frames too far to be more precise.
This is a factory defect, the frame dial was incorrectly glued to the gear of the frame counter.
I didn't want to risk breaking the gear by separating it from the frame dial to reglue it. I've worked around the problem by simply firing the shutter twice, then rotated the part with the white arrow to align it with the 1.

Many thanks for this beautifully illustrated post. One of my Praktica MTL3 counters does this - didn't realise it was a stock fault. Bearing in mind what you said, I don't think I'll bother taking the camera apart to reset it, especially as there's glue involved. I'm used to adding 6 to the count and finishing the film at frame 30.
--

Kind Regds,

R.

 

[Helios 1984]

Many thanks for this beautifully illustrated post. One of my Praktica MTL3 counters does this - didn't realise it was a stock fault. Bearing in mind what you said, I don't think I'll bother taking the camera apart to reset it, especially as there's glue involved. I'm used to adding 6 to the count and finishing the film at frame 30.
--

Kind Regds,

R.

Also,to be able to remove the top cover, the wire of the flash needs to be cut (or desoldered).
If change your mind, feel free to ask questions.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I have the "Praktica L" service manual in german language but the file is to big to be uploaded here.

Karl

please send me a copy to my email at :rwlambrec@gmail.com. I bought mine new and it lasted only a week until the shutter broke.

 

[AgX]

Servicing Manual for the Praktica L serie

Note: The [exploded views] are missing, if someone has them, please share them with us.

Yes, and I too asked for them in vain so far.
So, if someone got them (at the end of the original manual) ...

 

[russell_w_b]

'...the wire of the flash needs to be cut (or desoldered).
If change your mind, feel free to ask questions. '

Thanks for that; appreciated. Quite happy with soldering and I did see elsewhere that this is the case. I had a bit of a tragedy with that Praktica MTL3 last night: stopped to do a couple of night-shots and the shutter held on 'B' and wouldn't release. Stuck my hand over the lens and had a fiddle and it released (I think it was the cold - it was -4 out there) but when I wound on there was a graunching noise. Subsequent shots on 'B' were fine. When I rewound the film it snapped! I'd to remove it in my dark-bag and I'll develop what I salvaged tonight.

Anyway, I discovered that the flash sync socket doesn't work adjacent to the lens mount, but the hot-shoe does. It seems loose so I need to get in at it to check it out. I've only had the bottom plate off the camera to clean and check the battery connections. Is access to the flash socket tricky? Will I need to delve deep inside?

I swapped over to my other MTL3 which works perfectly but is outwardly grubbier and has a grotty focussing screen. How easy is it to change the focussing screen? I take it it's not like (say) a Pentax MX where you can replace it with tweezers through the lens aperture? Is it do-able?
--

Kind Regds,

R.

 

[russell_w_b]

Anyway, I discovered that the flash sync socket doesn't work adjacent to the lens mount, but the hot-shoe does. It seems loose so I need to get in at it to check it out. I've only had the bottom plate off the camera to clean and check the battery connections. Is access to the flash socket tricky? Will I need to delve deep inside?

Right: got to that. I removed the front plastic ring and the four screws behind it, de-soldered the LDR and found that the flash sync socket wasn't working because the centre connection was missing the little screw that holds the spade connection (blue wire) to it. So I need another little screw.

I noticed that when I measure the resistance of earth - hotshoe connection and fire the shutter on B is less than an ohm, but when I do the same measurement between the blue flash-sync connection and earth it reads about forty ohms. I don't think this would be critical but is there a reason for this? My first thought was that the hotshoe centre contact would be directly connected to the flash-sync socket but this doesn't seem to be the case.

A question... It wasn't until I removed the silver bezel that I noticed the LDR and the aperture into which it sits was covered by a flap of black material, presumably to keep out extraneous light. Am I correct in thinking the LDR sits so that this flap of material comes between the edge of the LDR and the silver bezel and that the LDR face is directly on to the optics above?
--

KInd Regds,

R.

 

[chuck3565]

Hi, I have a Praktica LTL that has suddenly developed an issue with the shutter.
I can cock the shutter, but then there's a "click" and the flag in the viewfinder reappears, indicating that it isn't cocked. The wind lever is stuck and the shutter release button doesn't seem to do anything.
The interesting thing is that the shutter does seem to be cocked, because I can fire it when holding down the shutter release and pressing down on the round peg on the left that activates the meter and aperture.
Removing the top plate suddenly remedied the problem, but only from time to time, it still manifests itself every couple of tries.
This leads me to think it's a problem with the shutter release button, as the shutter is cocked every time, and the speeds seem to be correct (with the button working or not).

Is this a known issue, and does anyone know how to remedy it? Or would it be better to retire the camera to a display?

Try using a small jeweler's screw driver or release cable in the threaded hole in the shutter button to see if the shutter fires. If so, there can be a screw loose that holds the release mechanism in its proper position.