Post your Infrared Photographs here

[Sirius Glass]

Using box speed, taking a light reading and adjusting for the filter factor is more accurate that arbitrarily setting an effective ISO. Filter factors are supplied by the manufacturer, who actually know what they are doing, not like the random number pulled out of the air, guessing, without any knowledge.

R23 filter factor 2
R25 filter factor 3
R29 filter factor 4
720 aka 72R filter factor 5​

filter factor =5 (25 A = 8 filter factor) or 5 stops = 32 filter factor? What I used is effectively to 6 or 7. I am not finding R72 filter factors on Hoya or any websites. I found one unofficial listing of filter factor=20 to 40 .

I did not make this up, but checked to see what worked with other photographers on Photrio and Flickr, and back calculated filter factors as a check. It made sense that the filter factor for R72 should be higher than 25A, I think. I just found it easier to use effective ISO around 6-16 with the filter on. You end up in a very similar place.

Look at my post: R25 [25A] has a factor of 3 [23 = 8 times the exposure time], 720 [72R] has a factor of 5 [25 = 32 times the exposure time]. Mathematics shows that 5 is greater than 3. I have found the filter factor for the 720 listed as 6 but that was a little too high sometimes from my work with it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wratten_number

 

[markjwyatt]

Look at my post: R25 [25A] has a factor of 3 [23 = 8 times the exposure time], 720 [72R] has a factor of 5 [25 = 32 times the exposure time]. Mathematics shows that 5 is greater than 3. I have found the filter factor for the 720 listed as 6 but that was a little too high sometimes from my work with it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wratten_number

25A has a filter factor of 8, 3 stops: 2^3-stops=2x2x2=8 filter factor (8x exposure increase). Your link also says 3 stops, not filter factor of 3.

R72 appears to have a 5-7 stop increase needed: 2^5=32; 2^6=64; 2^7=128. I think the time of day I was shooting and the conditions when I metered, I was a bit less than 6 stops. So maybe 2/3 stops more exposure than your recommendation.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

8x10 Efke IR. Wratten 87C.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I am not finding R72 filter factors on Hoya or any websites. I found one unofficial listing of filter factor=20 to 40 .

The R72 blocks far enough down in to the red/IR that the filter factor will be very heavily dependent on the IR sensitivity curve of the specific film in use. A film that cuts off at 720 nm will need a much larger filter factor than one that "sees" down to 820 nm.

This is true even with visible red filters, to a lesser extent -- some panchro films have more red sensitivity than others, even when you're well within the visible.

 

[Ivo Stunga]

Iekuram by Ivo Stunga, on Flickr

 

[benveniste]

Mixed shot for comic purpose:

Nikon FA, Tokina 28-70mm lens @ 35mm, f/8, 1/125th, Kodak HIE film rated at ISO 200, Bogen 3021/3030, #25 Filter.
Nikon D200, Tokina 90mm f/2.5, f/11, 1/250th, ISO 100

 

[GLS]

Hasselblad 501CM, 4/180 Sonnar CF, Rollei IR400, Hoya R72, DD-X.

--- by atomstitcher, on Flickr

 

[Cubao]

I loved HIE, but after it disappeared I tried several other Infrared films. I like the Rollei IR 400 the best and I use the R25, R29 and 720 filters the best with it. The R23 is a little too weak for IR film, but it darkens the sky without turning it black that the R25 for panchromatic films and is stronger than the Orange filters.

A very nice series!

 

[tomkatf]

HIE, probably no filter...

 

[Highlyanimated]

An image from my second time shooting IR. Bronica RF645, 65mm @ f22 on Rollei Infrared 400.

 

[Sirius Glass]

An image from my second time shooting IR. Bronica RF645, 65mm @ f22 on Rollei Infrared 400.

Nice!

 

[Cubao]

Nice

Indeed, but what is going on to the sky?

 

[Sirius Glass]

Indeed, but what is going on to the sky?

Some what darkened by the filter, but there is a lot of moisture closer to the surface and that is what causes the lighter tones near the trees.

 

[Highlyanimated]

Indeed, but what is going on to the sky?

Uncertain, I think my film lab may have done something wrong in the development process. Other shots had random black spots scattered about.

 

[Cubao]

Uncertain, I think my film lab may have done something wrong in the development process. Other shots had random black spots scattered about.

I agree. The moisture of the scene cannot be the reason in my opinion. Have you asked the lab already?

 

[GLS]

Pentax 6x7 MLU, SMC Pentax 2.8/165, Rollei IR400, Hoya R72, DD-X.

--- by atomstitcher, on Flickr

 

[Highlyanimated]

I agree. The moisture of the scene cannot be the reason in my opinion. Have you asked the lab already?

Unfortunately, I didn't. I do know that they do not handle much IR film. I tend not to ask the owner questions. Next time I have some Rollei 400, I'll bring it to a more experienced shop.

 

[naaldvoerder]

Kodak HIE, Lith printed

 

[Cubao]

Mamiya C220, Rollei IR, Hoya R72, Pyrocat-HD

 

[Sirius Glass]

View attachment 311082 Kodak HIE, Lith printed

The overcast sky with IR film gives a ghostly touch.

 

[Cubao]

Xpan, Aviphot Pan 200, Hoya R72

 

[Sirius Glass]

Xpan, Aviphot Pan 200, Hoya R72

View attachment 311405

 

[Highlyanimated]

Recently picked up a Chroma Snapshot 4x5. Decided to test it with a sheet of Rollei IR 400.

 

[skylight1b]

Recently picked up a Chroma Snapshot 4x5. Decided to test it with a sheet of Rollei IR 400.

I'm going through old posts to learn more about IR film, and I find this photo of the street I work on. What are the odds?

Edit: Now I'm starting to doubt myself, but it looks identical. If so, the person on the right is going the wrong way down a one-way street.

 

[BAC1967]

Here's a few from Palau. Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta 530 with Konica Infrared 750nm, Expired 3/2003, developed in HC110 Dilution B, 7 minutes.

Exposure f/5.6, 1/100, Red Filter
Bai ra Rengorairai by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr


Exposure: f/16, 1/10, Red Filter
Palauan Brer by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr