Plaubel Makiflex Standard.

EdSawyer · Feb 6, 2017

ok, will have to pick your brain on shutters when the time comes... (we can PM about that.) Left-handed threads? wow. that's unique. Indeed, the exposed surface do look xenotar-ish but that's also typical of most gauss type designs also. But it stands to reason it could be a xenotar derivative. (there is a lot to like about the Xentoars though, no doubt. but price isn't one of those things. ;-)

Odd about them being sealed. I see spanner rings on that rear group - do those not release any of the elements in that group? Indeed strange they would glue those in place. :-/

I am going to keep an eye out for one of these though I will be surprised if I can clear the mirror on the reflex 4x5s with it at infinity, but even if not, should be nice for portraits and a good alternative to the other usual suspects.

thanks
-Ed

Dan Fromm · Feb 6, 2017

Nokton48 said:
You can see the glue on the threads, they are left-handed.

The Fujinon WS lenses 210mm and 250mm, also one of the 180mm lenses have the right Seiko shutter; Be careful to get the right one, there are several kinds!

Great Zot! Do you mean to say that the RB67 Seiko shutters and the Seiko shutters for the two WS lenses you mentioned also have left-handed threads?

Nokton48 · Feb 7, 2017

To remove the front cell (for example) you twist counter clockwise. Maybe I have that backwards, anyway, that is what you do.

Nokton48 · Feb 7, 2017

EdSawyer said:
I see spanner rings on that rear group - do those not release any of the elements in that group? Indeed strange they would glue those in place.

No those spanner slots are to help you remove the entire back cell. No way to get to the individual elements.

EdSawyer · Feb 7, 2017

That sounds like normal threads (righty-tighty).

You can see on the rear group though there are at least 2 sets of spanner slots, implying the inner set are for a retaining ring?

I see there was a removable lens-protection ring that you took off (like what was on that Xenotar).

btw, I noticed the R2R and vinyl collection on flickr, our tastes run in the same direction on that too. (audio, vinyl, tube amps, hornspeakers are some of my other vices besides messing around with cameras/lenses.)

Nokton48 · Feb 7, 2017

EdSawyer said:
ke normal threads (righty-tighty). You can see on the rear group though there are at least 2 sets of spanner slots, implying the inner set are for a retaining ring? I see there was a removable lens-protection ring that you took off (like what was on that Xenotar). btw, I noticed the R2R and vinyl collection on flickr, our tastes run in the same direction on that too. (audio, vinyl, tube amps, hornspeakers are some of my other vices besides messing around with cameras/lenses.)

Ed,
Taking another look, there is an interior retaining ring that appears to hold in the globular rear element. It also does looks has been well glued in, but at least with some persuasion it might come free. The front group is completely sealed with no retaining rings. This is the first GX680 lens in the lineup I have seen that actually has a possibly removable ring. I just got new eyeglasses today and that helps! ;/

I have an affinity for Yamaha classic 80s and 70s audio equipment. It is a lot of fun to collect and restore and I love the sonic qualities that come from my system. My Wife and I go record shopping on dreary days and I have put together quite a collection of vinyl. It is something (along with taking photographs/ she likes digital) that we enjoy doing together. Plus all of the hundreds of CDs and cassettes from both of our families. Reel to Reel is new to me, I just got a refurbed Pioneer RT707 and I am enjoying it immensely. I just really like to watch those cool metal reels spin........... So much fun!

Good Luck with your interesting projects! -Dan

EdSawyer · Feb 8, 2017

sometimes a threadlocker will be used to lock retaining rings, but I have never seen elements/groups glued into a barrel in any lenses I have taken apart (which is quite a few). Usually heat will release adhesives like threadlocker, or maybe acetone or another solvent may work. My guess is the front group has a trim ring hiding the retaining ring that holds the front element in place. The most difficult type of mounting to undo that I have seen is where an element is swaged into a mount, and a thin piece of the mount (brass usually) is then bent down around the perimeter of the element to retain it in place. Those require some machining to remove the element, but the ones that are done that way are usually the rear-most element in a group, and it's not that common of a technique in general.

Good call on the Yamaha stuff, they always had nice sounding gear. I had some of theirs in the past but nothing currently. I like to shop @ Goodwill for vinyl, it's cheap and often in nice shape. I think R2R is probably the best-sounding format, assuming you can find good source material and don't mind the care and feeding (which makes vinyl look like a lazy man's format by comparison). I have friends who are deep into tape and I have heard it on their systems, it's really amazing when listening to a 2-track safety master, for example, on a top-line Studer or other studio-grade deck.

I ran some numbers and I don't think the 180/3.2 will reach infinity on any of my 4x5 reflexes but may get one anyway. It might work on the 3x4 Graflex RB SuperD since that has a shorter mirror.

-Ed

Nokton48 · Feb 18, 2017

DSC05682 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Today it has warmed up to spring like weather, so I am working on finishing the GX680 100mm F4. I removed an RB67 shutter from a 90mm F3.8 RB lens, it has a beefy heavy brass shutter perfect for this job. I stripped all the external linkages and ground down some high spots. Now I have JB Welded down the tab that presets the aperture (see the blob of grey on the back of the shutter, that's it) so it can't move. Next step is that I have flattened out an electrical connecting tab in a vise, and filled it with JB Weld. That tab is now drying (15+ hours) and then I will bend the tab and it this unit ready to use. Will cover the shutter with black photo masking tape to keep out the dust. This lens will go into my new Plaubel Peco Jr board that just arrived from Poland. Will need to add an f/stop band to the outside of the recessed board.

This is a very cool lens on the Makiflex, 100mm is significantly wider than the 120/125mm lenses that I enjoy using. Will test it as I have time.

DSC05683 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Here the tab is bent. Lens is now ready for final finishing. On to body and paint

Nokton48 · Feb 19, 2017

DSC05684 by Nokton48, on Flickr

And here the shutter has been sealed with black masking tape, and the final painting is completed. So tomorrow when some touch up paint is dry on the lens board and some brass washers, I will final assemble the lens. Add the f/stop scale on the recessed board and I am done. Thought some here would like to see the final assembly process.

Nokton48 · Feb 20, 2017

DSC05687 by Nokton48, on Flickr

So Thanks to Igor in Cleveland I now have a working Pecoflex (made with the Makiflex/Pecoflex Adapter on the Auto Makiflex). Here is the 360mm F5.5 Schneider Tele-Arton, a lens I have enjoyed using very much on the Auto Makiflex. Now it is adapted to the Pecoflex, so I have full front movements to enjoy. Shown here focused at about thirty feet. This will get some use this year. This lens also interchanges with the 360mm F5.5 Tele-Xenar, which I also have in late vintage in barrel mount.

This morning it was extremely foggy and warm so I went out and tried a test photo with the new Fuji 100mm F4 wide open at 1/125 Ilford FP4+ on the Makiflex Standard (handheld!) focused at infinity

Nokton48 · Feb 25, 2017

An interesting article from a German Photographic magazine introducing the Plaubel Makiflex around 1962

DSC05696 by Nokton48, on Flickr

DSC05691 by Nokton48, on Flickr

DSC05692 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Nokton48 · Feb 26, 2017

Ed,
Here is my Yahama system. The NS-590 Version 1's are the little brother of the legendary NS-1000's (did not have room for those).
I've picked up thirty + reels of seven inch tape, mostly Maxell UD35-90, BASF LPR35, Quantegy 632, and a few rolls of Pyral LPR35.
Having a blast! Thinking of getting a 10.5" RTR, maybe a Teac, must hold off! I bought a set of new Caps from Madisound, still need to switch them out in the NS-590's. The stands were custom made by a Guy out in Colorado, I have filled them with lead shot. Changed the caps in my NS-10's and I really like the sound. The Yami Subwoofer adds just a bit of bass at the deep end, really sounds awesome.

2016-07-01 15.39.49 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Hot-Rodded Yahama YPD6 Turntable, Grace Green Dragon Cartridge, (2) Yahama A-700 Integrated Power Amps, Yahama K-902 Dual Cassette Deck, Yahama CDC-565 CD player, Yahama YST SW-315 Subwoofer, Restored Recapped Yahama NS-590 Speakers on Custom Made Metal Stands, Recapped Yahama NS-10 Speakers, Pioneer RT707 RTR

Nokton48 · Feb 26, 2017

DSC05699 by Nokton48, on Flickr

One thing I really enjoy is finding Makiflex cameras on the internet, and when I discover something I did not know, I try to implement the "modification" so that the camera is closer to originality as when it was new. The Pecoflex on Ebay.de has a rubber eyecup on the Makiflex Porrofinder, this I did not know about, it is such a rare item. So I set about to duplicate what I have seen, using a 38mm Rubber Lenshood, the interior ring removed, and the outer edge cut back with a utility knife, so it pretty closely matches what came from the factory. A bit more trimming, and some gluing with some clear plastic glue, and this will be good to go.

No more scratched eyeglasses. (I have brand new spectacles and I want to keep them that way).

Nokton48 · Mar 3, 2017

I finished the Makiflex Porrofinder today. I added a couple of rubber plumbing washers to the eyepiece, it looks good, fits tightly, and is removable (I might change my mind later). I need to glue down one corner of the mirror, and it's done. I will probably use JB Weld. A few previous owner used some kind of white glue to repair it, which didn't hold.

I just bought a 360mm Makiflex Automatic iris 360mm F5.5 Schneider Tele-Xenar. This is an original Makiflex lens, and I got a decent deal on it. Here is the photo advertising it. It's on it's way to me.

360mm Makiflex Auto Tele-Xenar by Nokton48, on Flickr

norphot · Mar 4, 2017

Three Makiflexes and a Plaubel Peco Jr. at this season's Auction Team Breker auction, for those interested. The cameras do show up quite regulary, it seems. Does anyone have an overview of serials, to estimate how many were produced?

https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/...0011/lot-4100238d-9f51-4009-a903-a72900bda760

https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/...0011/lot-16119d65-fb80-42a7-af39-a72900bda82b

https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/...0011/lot-298eb2b2-1207-4b78-a648-a72900bda5a2

Nokton48 · Mar 11, 2017

Thanks for the link Dag.bb Will follow these auctions and future ones. Another good Makiflex resource
Those lenses are Plaubel factory Automatic iris Makiflex Voigtlander Heliars. I have never seen any for sale set up like that in all my years of Makiflex. Nice and rare and usually very expensive...........

DSC05719 (1) by Nokton48, on Flickr

My new Makiflex Auto iris Schneider 360mm F5.5 has arrived. The mechanism and lenses are clean and working properly. Another original Plaubel factory Makiflex lens.

Nokton48 · Mar 18, 2017

plaubel factory by Nokton48, on Flickr

Found this on the internet. Good to know the company is still alive and well.

Nokton48 · Mar 19, 2017

Pecoflex3 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Also from the internet, Here is an original Plaubel Makiflex Single Cable Release MX1/501. As you can see, it is a special design. I would like to figure out how to make one of these. I wonder what parts I would need, can you Guys help identify? It is male threaded and goes into the socket on the Makiflex body.
If anybody knows where I can find one of these, Please let me know!

Nokton48 · Mar 19, 2017

A while ago I took one of the cameras to Lowes and found the metric machine bolts that fit the Makiflex socket. Then I had a machinist friend drill and tap the bolts to fit a Sinar Norma Cable Release, which has an extra long throw. Simply screwed the bolt into the camera, measured the proper length, and cut the bolt with a hacksaw. Then I used red (semi-permanant loctite) to afix the bolts inside the Makiflex socket. Works very wall in years of practice. But I would still like to have the original Plaubel Releases.

Makiflex Bolts by Nokton48, on Flickr

EdSawyer · Mar 20, 2017

nice work with the drilling and tapping - well done. Odd they used a non-standard thread on those cable releases. :-/

I never got to commenting until now but the Yamaha system looks like a nice setup! I haven't got a tape setup myself but several friends do, it's really a great medium if you can find good source material and the care-and-feeding routine is not overbearing.

For vintage speakers I've always been a fan of a/d/s/, have a couple pairs of those of various types and have owned several different pairs of their stuff in the past. Yamaha always made nice receivers, I had a few of those in the past but gifted them to others since they were surplus to my needs. I esp. liked the -10 and -20 series, but they were all pretty nice in general.

Nice score on the tele xenar. I had one of those in Compound for a while, amazingly light and small for it's length. I later switched to the Nikkor-T 360/8 but miss the speed of the Tele xenar (and tele arton).

-Ed

AgX · Mar 22, 2017

Nokton48 said:
plaubel factory by Nokton48, on Flickr

Found this on the internet. Good to know the company is still alive and well.

You did not do your best...
That photo is outdated.
Meanwhile Plaubel shares even this premises with a car dealer.

Nokton48 · Mar 25, 2017

Got any recent pictures?

Nokton48 · Apr 2, 2017

Here is the Norma Cable Release screwed into the Makiflex.
I have five or six of these cables around the studio.

DSC05742 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Nokton48 · Apr 8, 2017

DSC05745 (2) by Nokton48, on Flickr

I am of the opinion that the tripod head designed for the camera is the best to use; Just as with my Sinar Normas. It completes the designer's intention for usefulness, it is part of the camera design in my opinion.

I have finished the 100mm Fuji GX680 F4 (attached the f/stop band to the recessed board) so I took it out this morning for a quick test. My favorite old-time hardware store is being converted to my (now) favorite local pizza parlor, which is expanding. I photographed the original extremely old neon hardware store sign, from an interesting unusual angle, before it is removed. I really like this lens! In fact, I decided to pull the trigger on the 80mm F5.6, so I try that one next. Also this afternoon my second Plaubel Tripod Head arrived (from Germany) so it took me a couple of hours to clean it, lube the movements, and it didn't help when I temporarily lost one of the internal washers. This one is now complete and original, and fully functional. I also added a rubber knurled pad to the top of the tripod head (which I got from the Rollei factory in Germany many years ago) which was intended for the Diamond SL-66 model. Looks great and works perfectly. Plaubel stuff (including my Peco Profia view cameras) are designed to be rock-solid, like a brick house. That appeals to me very much.

I've nearly accumulated enough film to make a development run worthwhile. So I will be posting more Plaubel images soon.

norphot · Apr 9, 2017

Will be interesting to see if the 80mm works. It's a modern 8/8 lens design, possibly a variation of the 100mm F4 one? I would like to get some more images with my remounted lenses, but I need some good caps before transporting them back and forth... Did you ever find a premanufactured cap suitable for the 180mm 3.2 rear element (on eBay or elsewhere)?

Plaubel Makiflex Standard.

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency