A great suggestion, Jonathan. We seem to be getting to that stage where a form of thinking out of the box such as this suggestion is a worthwhile suggestion
pentaxuser
A great suggestion, Jonathan. We seem to be getting to that stage where a form of thinking out of the box such as this suggestion is a worthwhile suggestionCan you send an exposed film to one of us to process, to see what happens? I would happily oblige, but am in the UK. If that's of any use, please message me.
Can you send an exposed film to one of us to process, to see what happens? I would happily oblige, but am in the UK. If that's of any use, please message me.
I suspect something of the sort. The reel is covered for sure but maybe these lines are made by the level of chemistry when inverting. Next try is more chemistry so the film is never out of it and the reel just move into it. After that maybe change to a jobo manual rotary system.These could not be pouring marks, i.e., the film was unevenly covered by the developer as the tank was filled? A way to check for that would be: 1.) presoak the film with water before using developer, 2.). In the dark, have the tank filled with the developer and drop the reel into it and close the lid.
If that was the case, you could surely overcome it by filling the tank to capacity every time? It would prove the point at least. It sounds as though you are using small quantities of chemistry.I suspect something of the sort. The reel is covered for sure but maybe these lines are made by the level of chemistry when inverting. Next try is more chemistry so the film is never out of it and the reel just move into it. After that maybe change to a jobo manual rotary system.
Yep as I said that was my next test. Fruitless of course since absolutely nothing works. The only thing I see left is constant agitation with a Jobo rotary system. Being in France it's easy to order but I'm unsure if I should choose the 1500 or 2500 system yet. I have some hewes reels with the large center for Jobo ; does anyone knows if it works with both 1500 and 2500 system and (maniual) rotary system?If that was the case, you could surely overcome it by filling the tank to capacity every time? It would prove the point at least. It sounds as though you are using small quantities of chemistry.
Re-fixing was the 1st thing I tried when the streaks started to appear. Didn't do anything. I just opened a new fixer bottle yesterday so it's real fresh. I thought about the stop bath but I can empty the developer and fill with the stop bath (acetic acid) in less than 10s. I thought about taking the reels out of the developer tank and put them in a stop tank but I think that would take me even longer to do especially in the dark... unless the solution is to process my films in broad daylight maybe that will work!Your frustration is clear, and I can sympathise.
With Paterson tanks, I have never had problems using the recommended quantities of chemical per film, even when doing continuous inversions with one film in a 2-reel tank (so that the chemical is 'air-borne' most of the time). However, I always use the swizzle stick for 10 sec when the chemical is first added. I don't know what the Kodak recommendation is, but it sounds like you start straight off with inversions?
I was also thinking that if this problem is process-related, it must be happening at the fixer stage (or possibly stop-bath). The reason I suggest that is because the lines are dark on the negative, which would mean over-development if it was happening at the developer stage. I simply cannot imagine how that could happen, whereas I have seen inadequate fixing taking various forms. Have you tried Matt's suggestion of re-fixing one of the spoiled films?
Ah... Thanks for saying this as I am indeed hoping it will solve the problem since I have tried absolutely every possible agitation and processing method except for continuous agitation and inverting myself to process standing on my head. I also remember from another life that I was getting fantastic consistant negs from a Jobo rotary processor. And this tread of someone solving his streaks issues with a Jobo 2500 system (https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/streak-across-mf-negs.124546/).I cannot add anything to what has already been said except to say that if you want to buy a Jobo rotary processor then fine. You may find it useful for other reasons such as developing C41 films but I cannot see how it will help with the problem you have shown to us
So if the purchase of a rotary processor is simply to cure your problem and for no other reason then I strongly fear that it will be money wasted
pentaxuser
These could not be pouring marks, i.e., the film was unevenly covered by the developer as the tank was filled? A way to check for that would be: 1.) presoak the film with water before using developer, 2.). In the dark, have the tank filled with the developer and drop the reel into it and close the lid.
I have cracked a Paterson tank before, and under certain circumstances the crack allowed light in.
Yes, I thought about push exposure too, but then it is a little strange that they are not very straight and bend off the image sometimes, not impossible, but interesting. Plus, Viana told that he used all his camera’s with all backs random. There’s not one back I understood.The lines are totally parallel with the film edges, yes? To me that points to pressure marks. I don't know hasselblad backs, is it possible for them to malfunction or to load them wrong so that they produce pressure or stretch marks like that? Rubber bands around exposed rolls have already been mentioned.
I have spend a lot of time thinking about the source of the problem and I too have come to the conclusion that the tank has not been filled enough and that bands on the film are a result of insufficient chemical volume needed to properly cover the film.
Do you wear cufflinks when you load reels?The lines are totally parallel with the film edges, yes? To me that points to pressure marks. I don't know hasselblad backs, is it possible for them to malfunction or to load them wrong so that they produce pressure or stretch marks like that? Rubber bands around exposed rolls have already been mentioned.
That's a very good point. There's no sense in pouring in your stop-bath (or dev or fix), then immediately taking it away by inverting the tank. On the other hand you need to ensure the chemical quickly reaches every part of the film. That's why Paterson recommend the twizzle stick when the chemical is first added, with inversion agitation thereafter.When you empty the tank of developer you need a stop bath whose purpose is to stop the development still on going even though the tank has been emptied of all developer, except of course that developer which sticks to the film surface until neutralised by acid stop immediately or by washes of water which take just a few seconds longer
I assume you used Paterson reels on a Paterson centre column in the Paterson tank? Otherwise metal reels moving up and down inside the tank during inversions might be a relevant consideration.Have you tried plastic reels in a plastic tank?
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