Nikon RF
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Ah, as it turns out, mine is 6160xxx - so, a little later than I was thinking. Still, for a beautiful, all-mechanical, 60 year old camera, mine is really perfect... I hope I'm just as "operational" when I'm sixty!
60's not bad for us, I'm 70 and still kicking!! Cameras...well, could be good or bad depending on availability of parts and service. We've got the F2 series covered with Sover Wong and several for the Leica but the Nikon RF, I'm not sure.
I've posted this elsewhere on APUG, but i like to keep my S2 in good company and I carry it everywhere.
Looks mighty fine. I have some PanF in the bag I haven't tried yet along with enough FP-4 to last me till Christmas. My "fast" film is usually Tri-X, HP-5 or RPX-400.
I'm hoping this one is going to be a good one and should be as it was recently CLA'd by DAG.
I'm hoping this one is going to be a good one and should be as it was recently CLA'd by DAG.
I was hoping you'd spring for the Contax...
That's ok; the Nikon is far more reliable and easier to work on.
That's ok; the Nikon is far more reliable and easier to work on.
That film stash is a hodge podge of HP5+ (which I develop and print in my basement darkroom as is the case with all my B/W), Portra 400, PanF, Ektar 100, and Delta 3200.
I also carry a Sekonic L-398a (batteries not required), a small rocket blower, and a sharpie marker in that bag.
Point is, the S2 is really useful in addition to being easy on the eyes.
I also carry a Sekonic L-398a (batteries not required), a small rocket blower, and a sharpie marker in that bag.
Point is, the S2 is really useful in addition to being easy on the eyes.
My copy has a subtle glow wide-open that transitions into crisp sharpness by f/2.8. Here's a print that I made (still wet in this image) at f/2.8, I think. I only have seceral hundred negarives that need to be printed, so only time will tell.
Yes, in selenium. The lights in my basement might be funky, though.
For a normal 50mm, it has a character that is far from clinical. That's kinda why I fell in love with it, too. I was looking for an experience that would be notably different from my "electronic" kit. Even my FM2n feels too cloaely related to the unmentionable sometimes. This S2 is different. It's harder (slower) to use, but it feels so much more rewarding. When I shoot with this camera, I really sense that faith plays such a big role... Faith in my ability to read the scene, in my equipment, in my vision, and in my abikity to render a finished product. When I look at a print from the S2, I think, "I made that by hand from start to finish," and that is so much more rewarding than any camera that tries to 'think' for itself.
For a normal 50mm, it has a character that is far from clinical. That's kinda why I fell in love with it, too. I was looking for an experience that would be notably different from my "electronic" kit. Even my FM2n feels too cloaely related to the unmentionable sometimes. This S2 is different. It's harder (slower) to use, but it feels so much more rewarding. When I shoot with this camera, I really sense that faith plays such a big role... Faith in my ability to read the scene, in my equipment, in my vision, and in my abikity to render a finished product. When I look at a print from the S2, I think, "I made that by hand from start to finish," and that is so much more rewarding than any camera that tries to 'think' for itself.
I've read this is the "Holy Grail" of Nikon Rangefinders. I guess I'll find out late next week when it hopefully will be here for the weekend. Making prints from negatives you've developed yourself was always such a great revelation to me, slowly watching the image appear and finally when you could turn the lights on...nothing more satisfying, IMHO.
Agreed!
As a point to consider, I wonder if the shutter speed must be set after winding the shutters, or if it matters.
A very charming photo. You're right, it's definitely not clinical or electronic-looking. It's sharp, but there's a pleasing overall "softness" of a different form. I can't put it into words, but I like the effect.
Many thanks! One "benefit" of a rangefinder design like the S2 is that the imprecise framing (because of paralax) and lack ofTTL preview means every frame is at least a slight unknown.
I had one bad frame back in December and I later ran a test roll where every shot was at 1/1000. Every single frame was perfect, so I wondered if I had caused the problem by changing speeds before winding. I had read that regarding other cameras from the era (but not the Leica) so it made me curious. From then on, I've been winding the film and then changing speeds to avoid any potential issues.
Yes, that would be applicable to all rangefinders, but this was my first one and I wasn't accustomed to it. I've been using SLRs my whole life - minolta, nikon, pentax, mamiya - so this was just very different. in an SLR, I see the picture before I take it. With the S2 and other rangefinders, I have to imagine what it will be like.
Yes, that would be applicable to all rangefinders, but this was my first one and I wasn't accustomed to it. I've been using SLRs my whole life - minolta, nikon, pentax, mamiya - so this was just very different. in an SLR, I see the picture before I take it. With the S2 and other rangefinders, I have to imagine what it will be like.
Well, in practice, it isn't really a big deal. You'll see when you start winding yours that the shutter speed dial is directly linked to the winding mechanism and that the shutter speed indicator will only appear to point to the correct speed when the shutter is cocked. So, after a week or so, you'll just start doing it that way without any issues. You wind the film and select the shutter speed for your next shot. If you're using the same shutter speed, then it's already on the previous setting. I don't know if it affects the shutters' timing, but it does make a difference in the display.
Is this not true of the screw mount Leicas, too?
Is this not true of the screw mount Leicas, too?
Here's a link to a youtube video that I made just so you can see what I was speaking about:
Yes, and it becomes intuitive to work that way after just a short time. I want to post another video about how to load film, but my internet connection is quite slow at the moment. Manually winding the shutter with the knob instead of the film advance lever is a very convenient way to do double exposures.
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