Nikon F2 Photomic or Canon F-1n?

[faberryman]

I’m only interested in a fully mechanical, non-electronic camera from the mid-70s era. I have no interest in autofocus, autoexposure, motor drives, or flash capabilities. I want a camera that I can carry around when I visit the city and take street photos (and satisfy my nostalgia for cameras of that era, particularly the cameras used by pros).

I already have medium format (I have a Hasselblad and an RB67) and large format (I have a Sinar F2 and a Toyo VX125) covered.

Yeah, but some members don't want to read your posts too literally because, if they did, they wouldn't be able to go on and on about a bunch of stuff you've already said isn't a concern to you. Don't just think about yourself; think about their needs and desires.

 

[Paul Howell]

Pentax Sp;ot, K 1000, KM, K2, MX, Minolta 101, 201, 301, Konica T, T3, T4, Nikon F, F2, Nikkormats, Canon FTB, Miranda Sensormate, Petri, FT, FT ee, Topcon Uni, 100, IC, RE, Super and Super DM. Just one camera fixed lens, Kowa. Just to name a few. If you want a smaller and lighter camera the Pentax MX, pro level build, no frills, great 50mm lens. Larger with good build, KM, I have to say that I really like my Konica T3, meter is still spot on, top flash sync 1/125th, the 50 1.17 is as good a lens get. Nikon F with standard prism is the brightest.

 

[CMoore]

Yeah, but some members don't want to read your posts too literally because, if they did, they wouldn't be able to go on and on about a bunch of stuff you aren't interested in. Don't just think about yourself; think about their needs and desires. And, to be honest, consider yourself lucky no one has suggested you buy a Leica, even though it is the most obvious choice for someone who wants an all mechanical camera to shoot street. Those Leica love-in threads go on forever.

Yeah, but some members don't want to read your posts too literally because, if they did, they wouldn't be able to go on and on about a bunch of stuff you've already said isn't a concern to you. Don't just think about yourself; think about their needs and desires.

Well, Yeah, but.......... 9 months or 9 years from now, somebody MIGHT benefit from all the extraneous suggestions.
BTW...........people looking at this thread 3 years from would have been searching for Nikon and Canon.
Not all the other crud.

 

[faberryman]

Well, Yeah, but.......... 9 months or 9 years from now, somebody MIGHT benefit from all the extraneous suggestions.
BTW...........people looking at this thread 3 years from would have been searching for Nikon and Canon.
Not all the other crud.

Meanwhile, the OP has to slog through all the extraneous stuff looking for an answer to his question. Let's say he is a first time visitor. Would he come back?

 

[chuckroast]

I’m only interested in a fully mechanical, non-electronic camera from the mid-70s era. I have no interest in autofocus, autoexposure, motor drives, or flash capabilities. I want a camera that I can carry around when I visit the city and take street photos (and satisfy my nostalgia for cameras of that era, particularly the cameras used by pros).

I already have medium format (I have a Hasselblad and an RB67) and large format (I have a Sinar F2 and a Toyo VX125) covered.

I'd get a Nikon F Apollo with a nonmetering head. That meets your requirements perfectly. Mid-70s, manual, no electronics, motors, or meters. Standard for the working pro of that era.

 

[faberryman]

I'd get a Nikon F Apollo with a nonmetering head. That meets your requirements perfectly. Mid-70s, manual, no electronics, motors, or meters. Standard for the working pro of that era.

Would you recommend Sunny 16 or do you have a meter in mind?

 

[chuckroast]

Would you recommend Sunny 16 or do you have a meter in mind?

I am fond of spot meters and use both a Sekonic and a Zone VI modified Pentax meter. Revini Labs also has a new super small spot meter, thought I've never used it.

With care, a more conventional reflective meter will work just fine. I have used Luna Pros and the original Revini Labs meters to good effect.

I happen to own the aforementioned Nikon F Apollo, and mine has a functioning Photomic FtN metering head that I also use from time to time.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have the Sekonic L308S which has a reflectance meter, incident meter and flash meter. I had a Gossen SBC Luna Pro which allows for Zone System metering adjustments and had reflectance and incident readings and attachments for 10°, 5° and 1° spot meter readings.

 

[Paul Howell]

I have a gifted to me Nikon F with standard prism, in most lighting Tmax 400 works really well with Sunny 16, in dim lighting, backlit or even side lighting I use a meter. , I have a number of meters , right now I'm using a Weston Ranger 9, but I also have a Weston VI with inveradome which I'm also fond of. There are lots of very good meter choices, I would get one that has both a reflective and incident mode. What I like about the Weston master VI is that it does not need batteries.

 

[GregY]

Would you recommend Sunny 16 or do you have a meter in mind?

Any number of great meters around. I use a Pentax digital Spotmeter, Gossen Digi-six or Sekonic L-308. I may not meter for every shot, but i'm not keen on ball-parking w the Sunny F16..... it makes for less consistent negatives and then you're fighting the negatives when printing.

 

[faberryman]

Any number of great meters around. I use a Pentax digital Spotmeter, Gossen Digi-six or Sekonic L-308. I may not meter for every shot, but i'm not keen on ball-parking w the Sunny F16..... it makes for less consistent negatives and then you're fighting the negatives when printing.

I have a Pentax digital spot meter and a Sekonic L-308 too, but I don't want to carry them around when shooting 35mm, so my 35mm cameras have meters. I think a Nikon F2 with plain prism looks classic, but I wouldn't want to have to carry around a meter just so my camera looks classic.

 

[chuckroast]

I have a Pentax digital spot meter and a Sekonic L-308 too, but I don't want to carry them around when shooting 35mm, so my 35mm cameras have meters. I think a Nikon F2 with plain prism looks classic, but I wouldn't want to have to carry around a meter just so my camera looks classic.

The Revini meters are perfect for this role. They make, reflective, incident, and spot meters that are small enough to tote around. The reflective meter fits right on the flash shoe. HOWEVER, it doesn't fit that tightly, and I lost mine long enough to buy another, only to find the original I now use a small leash to tether the meter to the camera strap ring, just in case it pops out of the shoe.

 

[GregY]

I have a Pentax digital spot meter and a Sekonic L-308 too, but I don't want to carry them around when shooting 35mm, so my 35mm cameras have meters. I think a Nikon F2 with plain prism looks classic, but I wouldn't want to have to carry around a meter just so my camera looks classic.

I just always liked the weight/balance of the Nikon w a plain prism. My 35mm cameras pretty much look classic because they are.....except for a Leica CL my 35s don't have meters....it's not really an inconvenience but to each his own.

 

[faberryman]

The Revini meters are perfect for this role. They make, reflective, incident, and spot meters that are small enough to tote around. The reflective meter fits right on the flash shoe. HOWEVER, it doesn't fit that tightly, and I lost mine long enough to buy another, only to find the original I now use a small leash to tether the meter to the camera strap ring, just in case it pops out of the shoe.

Those Reveni meters, especially with a tether, perched on the rewind knob, sort of ruin the classic look of a plain prism Nikon F2. They may work well, but they look pretty cheesy. If you want a meter, get an F2 with one of the Photomic finders. All this beckons to the Canon F1. It is no coincidence that the Nikon F3 closely resembles the Canon F1.

 

[chuckroast]

Those Reveni meters, especially with a tether, sort of ruin the classic look of a plain prism Nikon F2. They may work well, but they look pretty cheesy. If you want a meter, get an F2 with one of the Photomic finders. All these leads to the Canon F1. It is no coincidence that the Nikon F3 closely resembles the Canon F1.

I have working Photomic finders for both my chrome F and my black Apollo F, as well as matching plain prisms for both. Also have an F2 Photomic. All the meters work fine (relatively) and I have replacement resistor rings for the Fs for when they stop working.

That said, when I want to actually shoot, the plain prism with the Revini reflected meter is the lightest weight option I have. The possible exception is the light meter app on my android phone ... but that's sort of cheating.

 

[SodaAnt]

Apollo F

How do you distinguish an Apollo F from a generic F? Is it just a serial number range? Are there any functional differences?

 

[chuckroast]

How do you distinguish an Apollo F from a generic F? Is it just a serial number range? Are there any functional differences?

The Apollos were the last run of Fs made in the 1970s. You can identify them because the film advance lever and self time lever are plastic coated:

https://casualphotophile.com/2018/05/30/nikon-f-apollo/

These are not materially different in any way than the early models, it's just that the Apollos were late in the Nikon F production runs and have the fewest years on them. If you find a super clean pre-Apollo F, those are great too.

Most of the time, these cameras just need a new foam job. They occasionally need a complete CLA, though I've almost never done that to the ones I've owned over the years.

Just avoid cameras with tons of brassing, lots of dings, and crinkled shutter curtains - they probably saw heavy pro use as sport, journalism, or wedding cameras.

 

[GregY]

Those Reveni meters, especially with a tether, perched on the rewind knob, sort of ruin the classic look of a plain prism Nikon F2. They may work well, but they look pretty cheesy. If you want a meter, get an F2 with one of the Photomic finders. All this beckons to the Canon F1. It is no coincidence that the Nikon F3 closely resembles the Canon F1.

Not a chance you can say that with a straight face in the 21st century on the internet and not expect to get at least a raised eyebrow.....
Giorgetto Giugiaro named car designer of the century in 1999 designed the F3.... it's a fine camera..... but no it does not resemble the Canon...

 

[faberryman]

Not a chance you can say that with a straight face in the 21st century on the internet and not expect to get at least a raised eyebrow.....
Giorgetto Giugiaro named car designer of the century in 1999 designed the F3.... it's a fine camera..... but no it does not resemble the Canon...

You're right. The Nikon F3 has a red stripe on the grip.

 

[Craig]

One thing worthy of consideration is batteries. I'd pick a camera that can use currently available batteries if you want to use a meter. The original Canon F-1 uses the 1.35V mercury cells. There used to be a guy in Russia who sold Russian made cells on Ebay, but obviously that's not an option anymore. I bought some and they work perfectly in an F-1.

I have an original F-1, but my preference would be for a New F-1. Still has the classic SLR feel, but uses a 6V battery and has a lot of options available to customize it to your needs.

Certainly look at Pentax as well, there are lots of K mount lenses out there which are excellent and a lower price point than Nikon or Canon.

If you consider a Nikon F, be aware that they are bottom loading and considerably slower and more fiddly to load film than later cameras that are back loading.

You do have to try them out, for me the New F-1 fits my hands the best.

Gratuitous camera photos...

 

[swchris]

I think a Nikon F2 with plain prism looks classic, but I wouldn't want to have to carry around a meter just so my camera looks classic.

Seconded

 

[swchris]

But, 2nd thought, last time with my F and the plain prism, I fared well with the Sunny 16 rule...

 

[madNbad]

How do you distinguish an Apollo F from a generic F? Is it just a serial number range? Are there any functional differences?

The strap lugs have a stainless steel insert. Along with the other F2 improvements like the wind lever and self timer.

 

[faberryman]

But, 2nd thought, last time with my F and the plain prism, I fared well with the Sunny 16 rule...

If you don't mind approximate exposure. When good enough is good enough.

 

[SodaAnt]

Were any F’s used on Apollo missions, or was it just a marketing gimmick used by Nikon? I thought all of the cameras carried on the missions were Hasselblads.