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Sirius Glass

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Spot meters may not really be more accurate; they just measure smaller areas. So, perhaps, that makes spot meter users small minded. LOL

Hence the need to have them, like any other meter, calibrated.
 
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madNbad

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I can understand the need for a spot meter when using larger films but if I'm only using 135, what would be the benefit?
 

BrianShaw

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I can understand the need for a spot meter when using larger films but if I'm only using 135, what would be the benefit?

It has little to do with film format. Spot meters are most commonly associated with Zone System, which is most practical using sheet film.

Using a spot meter is all about gathering more precise data about light levels to aid in making exposure determination.

In “average situations” the results from spot readings, when averaged, are going to be about the same as a general-coverage light reading.
 

Alan9940

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My understanding is that all Zone VI Studio meters were modified meters from other meter companies. The reason most calibration companies will not touch them is that they are not set up with sources set to his spectral set ups.

I'd have to pull out my original Zone VI Studios catalog, but IIRC in the beginning he sold some sort of Weston meter and a Gossen Luna Pro that was modified with a zone dial. Later on when he started selling spot meters, it was the Soligor Spot Sensor followed by the Pentax Spot (analog) and Pentax Spot (digital.) I can't remember exactly when the transition to modified meters began, but I have both a Soligor Spot Sensor and a Pentax Digital Spot both modified.
 

Paul Howell

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My modified Gossen matches my Weston meters, IV, V, VI, and Ranger 9 along with various AF 35mm bodies in average mode. As I bought it used I don't have any of the original docs or specs so cannot say if it was not modified beyond the dial.
 

Alan9940

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I can understand the need for a spot meter when using larger films but if I'm only using 135, what would be the benefit?

I shoot everything from 35mm up to 8x10 using a spot meter and have for 40+ years. Personally, I prefer a spot meter because I use a loosely applied version of the Zone System and I like to evaluate the scene in front of me.
 
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madNbad

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It has little to do with film format. Using a spot meter is all about gathering more precise data about light levels to aid in making exposure determination. In “average situations” the results from spot readings, when averaged, are going to be about the same as a general-coverage light reading.

So, spot meters are beneficial in difficult lighting. High contrast scenes or trying to expose for deep shadows. Currently, I use an incident readings exclusively, using the palm of my hand for readings that cover a broader area. It seems more consistent than an average of several reflective readings. This is really a situation where I would like to learn from those that use it as their metering technique.
 

BrianShaw

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So, spot meters are beneficial in difficult lighting. High contrast scenes or trying to expose for deep shadows. Currently, I use an incident readings exclusively, using the palm of my hand for readings that cover a broader area. It seems more consistent than an average of several reflective readings. This is really a situation where I would like to learn from those that use it as their metering technique.

I have a bunch of meters, including a spot meter, and use most of them regularly. Least used is the spot meter. Probably 97.8% of my photographs are exposed based on a general-coverage reflected reading or an incident light reading. Including large format.

My favorite use of the spot meter is to do scene analysis when NOT photographing. Trains the eye to better see scenes where averaged readings might be misleading. Better than watching TV or spending too much time on computers, forums, Amazon or ebay!

It’s okay with me that some folks like spot metering and zone system and suffering for their art; I don’t have that kind of time to waste. :smile:
 

GregY

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So, spot meters are beneficial in difficult lighting. High contrast scenes or trying to expose for deep shadows. Currently, I use an incident readings exclusively, using the palm of my hand for readings that cover a broader area. It seems more consistent than an average of several reflective readings. This is really a situation where I would like to learn from those that use it as their metering technique.

I often use the spot meter (especially in the mountains w snow & rock and in the SW with its bright light and deep shadows....to meter the brightness range....to see if i need to adjust the iso / and development time if necessary. I do this both with sheet film and roll film.
 
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madNbad

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I have a bunch of meters, including a spot meter, and use most of them regularly. Least used is the spot meter. Probably 97.8% of my photographs are exposed based on a general-coverage reflected reading or an incident light reading. Including large format.

My favorite use of the spot meter is to do scene analysis when NOT photographing. Trains the eye to better see scenes where averaged readings might be misleading. Better than watching TV or spending too much time on computers, forums, Amazon or ebay!

It’s okay with me that some folks like spot metering and zone system and suffering for their art; I don’t have that kind of time to waste. :smile:

A big part of my paring down equipment was to find the spot where I had what I needed without a lot of excess. I find myself focusing more on details of a scene, not so much of the over all and that was why I decided to go with a 308 instead of one of the bigger meters with a built in spot meter. I had a Sekonic 408 for a while but the spot meter was hazy and the LCD was hard to read in some light. I looked at a L558 but didn't want anything that big. Keep the suggestions comming.
 

BrianShaw

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A big part of my paring down equipment was to find the spot where I had what I needed without a lot of excess. I find myself focusing more on details of a scene, not so much of the over all and that was why I decided to go with a 308 instead of one of the bigger meters with a built in spot meter. I had a Sekonic 408 for a while but the spot meter was hazy and the LCD was hard to read in some light. I looked at a L558 but didn't want anything that big. Keep the suggestions comming.

Understood!

I paired down to 2 meters. Gossen Luna-Pro with battery adapter and Gossen Luna-Pro SBC. Both do reflected and incident readings. The SBC is larger but the dial has a cool feature to help manage filter factors. So generally I use the Luna-Pro and if using filters, the SBC.

For quite a while I was using Weston meters, Iii and V. Both with Invercones for incident readings. Great meters but the print in the dial is just too small for my current vision. So into a box for storage they went. I am doubt vision will be improving but maybe I’ll be willing to carry a mag glass some day.

The Sekonic L-558 gets pulled out when I’m expecting “unusual” situations, like described above by GregY, or using flash. A very expensive way of dealing with minority situations. It made more sense when I bought it. In hindsight, though, it made sense mostly because of some windfall money that was available at the time. :smile:
 
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RalphLambrecht

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I've been considering getting one. Love the simplicity of it. One thing I don't understand is your "Zone modified" comment. People say this often about this meter, but I fail to understand what does it mean? It's a simple EV scale... ready to be used with the zone system. What is there to modify?

Zone VI advertised a modification to the regular Pentax meter, but, I was very dissappointed with their modification. IMO, their modification made it worse. I went back to the egular Pentax digital meter and it's great!
 

GregY

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My working meters. In order of use... 1- Pentax, 2- Digisix. 3 - Leicameter
IMG_0639 2.jpg
 
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madNbad

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Understood!

I paired down to 2 meters. Gossen Luna-Pro with battery adapter and Gossen Luna-Pro SBC. Both do reflected and incident readings. The SBC is larger but the dial has a cool feature to help manage filter factors. So generally I use the Luna-Pro and if using filters, the SBC.

For quite a while I was using Weston meters, Iii and V. Both with Invercones for incident readings. Great meters but the print in the dial is just too small for my current vision. So into a box for storage they went. I am doubt vision will be improving but maybe I’ll be willing to carry a mag glass some day.

The Sekonic L-558 gets pulled out when I’m expecting “unusual” situations, like described above by GregY, or using flash. A very expensive way of dealing with minority situations. It made more sense when I bought it. In hindsight, though, it made sense mostly because of some windfall money that was available at the time. :smile:

I just set a box of seldom used stuff to KEH with nothing particular in mind. Net from the sale would leave me plenty of cash for a Reveni spot meter and accessories. I like the Reveni guys and want to support them. Since it would mostly be a secondary meter, small enough to carry around and isn't twenty or more years old, it would be worth a try. They made the right move by adding the accessory AAA battery pack, reducing the battery life problem. All of the other spot meters I've researched so far are either long out of production and still expensive or really big, still expensive and do far more than I would ever need. If it makes me a fan of spot metering, then it would be worth it.
 

Sirius Glass

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I can understand the need for a spot meter when using larger films but if I'm only using 135, what would be the benefit?

Shadow detail. The F100 built in spot meter can be used for that.
 

MTGseattle

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Sekonic L-508 for me. I sold one to an Army buddy who was getting out and getting into 4x5 in 2003, then I bought its replacement in 2006. I have a little Weston master ___ around here, but I think it's broken.
 
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madNbad

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Guess you may as well rename this thread and start a new one for non-spot meters!

It was easier just to join in.
I appreciate all of the input on spot meters and have done a lot of research. Looked for deals, watched videos and came close to ordering a Reveni but realized, I don’t need or want another piece of gear at this time. Unless I stumble across a deal on a L-558, then I may change my mind.
 

MTGseattle

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I'm going through a similar phase right now. I was trying to jump into 8x10 without a ridiculous amount of new gear. I'm not doing so well. I feel like I'm covered on the metering side though.
 
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madNbad

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It was this thread that started me looking at spot meters. Seeing a lot of aging, expensive beast as the best option was not encouraging. I had two Reveni cube meters and loved them but tired of the inconsistent battery life. After researching the spot meter and knowing it had been on the market long enough to shake out the initial problems, liking the company and really wanting to support the Reveni crew, it’s not that big of an investment to give it a try. If I like it, great! If not, it’s a learning experience.
Also they’re now bundled with the AAA battery pack.
 

Alan9940

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It was this thread that started me looking at spot meters. Seeing a lot of aging, expensive beast as the best option was not encouraging. I had two Reveni cube meters and loved them but tired of the inconsistent battery life. After researching the spot meter and knowing it had been on the market long enough to shake out the initial problems, liking the company and really wanting to support the Reveni crew, it’s not that big of an investment to give it a try. If I like it, great! If not, it’s a learning experience.
Also they’re now bundled with the AAA battery pack.

When you start to use the Reveni Spot Meter, IMO the most important thing to remember is that it's not a true spot meter. I would more probably classify it as a highly center weighted meter. But once you get the hang of where to point it it works great.
 
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