Yeah, I was wondering about that too. But subjects do creep and people forget..Helge, this thread is in the LF section...
> After planting a 8x10", the least concern is if you spend 15s to decide your exposure. After making the remarkable effort to shot a LF sheet you spend as much time is necessary to nail the shot. Many times you take two shots, with equal exposure to have a backup, you don't make a bracketing... so you meter the best you can, to not tell the case when you shot a 8x10" velvia, if you toast a 8x10 velvia you remember the pain for decades... so usually you spend the necessary time. An exception was the Moonrise, light was changing, Adams lost the meter and he guessed the exposure from a certain Moonny 16 rule. A master usually nails exposure even in that situation.
> If you don't have (real) knowledge and practice then better you practice with 35mm film, so if you are in LF then you have the knowledge or you plan to get it soon, destroying sheets makes not much sense.
> In LF the scene is reasonable passive, usually we shot on tripod, with some handheld exceptions (graflex, wanderlust...), but what I shot with a Cambo 8x10 sure it's a reasonably passive scene.
Of course it depends on the scene.... but the easiest way to nail the exposure of a sheet is spot metering, you point to the shadows and you place them at the underexposure level you decide, then you point to the highlights to know at what overexposure you will capture them, having the opportunity to decide a development that will place those highlights in the Zone you want.
Using other strategies may also be valid, but you have to make guesses if not knowing the local under/over exposure of the interesting subjects in the scene. Even we may simply use the Sunny 16... An experienced photographer may meter by simply smelling the scene. If you are not experienced enough then better if you spot meter, this is the way you won't get nasty surprises, specially if you shot slides that have to be critically metered.
In LF, spot meter is the way to go when starting. You know what you are doing and you get feedback from the results. It's about taking notes.
The above statement is not alway true!yup. I agree. There is no need for a spot meter. Ever.
Again, nothing about large format photography necessitates any kind of special light meter or light metering technique.
You do not need a spot meter.
“Now can we all just get along?”There are times when each type of metering has its advantages over the other types.
With LF just meter off the ground glass (or behind the glass as some meter probes are made to do).
For tele and macro on LF it’s indispensable and the only sensible thing to do.
You can very accurately meter through the ground glass if you do it properly.I don't think metering off the ground glass would produce reliable results-- they typically vary in brightness from the center to the edge. Adding a fresnel can make it brighter, and easier to get critical focus, but again, you're altering brightness unevenly across the GG.
For landscape, much easier (and consistent) to meter the actual scene with a 1 degree spot.
For macro work, it's usually going to be well enough lit that an incident meter would be more appropriate.
The bright spot moves with your head.I don't think metering off the ground glass would produce reliable results-- they typically vary in brightness from the center to the edge. Adding a fresnel can make it brighter, and easier to get critical focus, but again, you're altering brightness unevenly across the GG.
For landscape, much easier (and consistent) to meter the actual scene with a 1 degree spot.
For macro work, it's usually going to be well enough lit that an incident meter would be more appropriate.
Again, nothing about large format photography necessitates any kind of special light meter or light metering technique.
You do not need a spot meter.
Use whatever meter you have and whatever technique you’ve used previously and make photos.
Yeah, I was wondering about that too. But subjects do creep and people forget..
With LF just meter off the ground glass (or behind the glass as some meter probes are made to do).
For tele and macro on LF it’s indispensable and the only sensible thing to do.
You have this wonderful unique tool in the screen. Use it!
I read that incident metering is often used in landscape photography, that’s usually a situation where the subject is far. Do really have take the metering near the subject?
works for the Leica M2, Mamiya TLR, 4x5 Graflex Crown Graphic and Deardorff V8
Similar diversity of cameras as mentioned above (but no Leica since I’m not a DDS... LOL)
Never saw an old Polaroid EV meter?In what way does a light meter need to be compatible with any camera whatsoever? Measuring light and aperture, exposure time and film speed are standardized. Every light meter should be compatible with any camera.
.....Measuring light and aperture, exposure time and film speed are standardized. Every light meter should be compatible with any camera.
That’s the point. There’s nothing special about large format photography in this regard.
Check out the L-718 Sekonic. I have used it successfully in all these modes. The spot attachment is a bit wide at 5° but quite usable.
Brad, yes... there is nothing different in how rolls and sheets react to light and development... it has to be noted that in LF we often have different needs in the metering, IMO.
The reason is quite clear, with sheets we have the opportunity to make a custom development for each single sheet, and this influences the way we meter and what we want to know from the scene to decide an exposure and a development.
Yes. I’m very well aware of the possibilities. I’ve been doing photography since the early 1970's and large format photography since 2004 - including about five years of shooting a 4x5 crown graphic with the lowly 135mm Optar exclusively, often hand held and range finder focused. Thousands of sheets of 4x5 Tri-X, FP4+, RDP3 and E100g. I’ve loaded film holders while crossing the equator, 1000miles off the coast of South America and many motel bathrooms and, of course, in in my own bathroom.
In my experience, making notes about lighting, exposure and processing and then comparing these notes to the resulting transparencies or negatives and prints is far more valuable than what light meter one used (assuming it is accurate of course). After a few hundred exposures, the light meter becomes incidental...as in you mostly don't even need one.
Yes I could estimate the exposure, however after using light meters for decades for slides, I am well practiced in the art of metering and I would rather use a meter than blow a photograph, especially if I will only be there once. Indoor or dim lighting is always tricky so I use a meter and do not loose time nor photographs. Additionally I have calibrated equipment so it would be silly not to use it.
I'm trying to encourage the OP to just get out there with whatever light meter and experience he has and make photographs!.
In my experience, making notes about lighting, exposure and processing and then comparing these notes to the resulting transparencies or negatives and prints is far more valuable than what light meter one used (assuming it is accurate of course). After a few hundred exposures, the light meter becomes incidental...as in you mostly don't even need one.
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