Large Format X-Ray Photo

Donald Qualls

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Nokton48 said:
I like the idea of using yellow and green filters with HR-U.
Click to expand...

For an effectively ortho emulsion, yellow and green are essentially the same, aren't they? The green blocks blue and red, the yellow blocks blue but passes red -- but the film can't "see" the red that passes the yellow filter.

Might be some fine detail difference depending on exact filter passband vs. film sensitivity curve, but they'll be generally the same.
 
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Nokton48

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Why not test it and see the differences?
I have a large variety of original Sinar Norma 103mm glass filters No rings
Light Yellow, Medium Yellow, Dark Yellow, Yellow Green, Light Green, Dark Green; Polarizer; these prolly most useful

Everybody works differently, the questions for me is: the differences may be subtle, but are they improved in B&W print?

Testing with key sunlight should be similar to using big strobes, we will see. I think this stuff responds to time of day and UV

Film is dirt cheap
 
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Donald Qualls

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Ortho films ("green sensitive"), even reduced-red panchro films, will lose speed during the golden hours, when the color of the light is redder than midday. They'll also lose speed under tungsten or "warm white" fluorescent/LED light. Blue-sensitive films will do this about twice as much.
 
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Nokton48

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Thanks for your input. Makes sense and duly noted.
 

Mainecoonmaniac

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From my experience and your use of Mic-X, a soft working developer works well.
 
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Nokton48

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HRU test Norma Handy Sinarsix MicX by Nokton48, on Flickr


Nothing artistic but a superwide view off of my back deck, on a VERY windy clear sun key day.

Fuji 4x5 HRU XRay test key day Sinar 4x5 Norma Handy 65mm F8 chrome Schneider Super Angulon lens, with Schneider 65mm F8 Center Filter. Norma Sinarsix TTL meter F11 reads green grass EV 7 2/3 equates to 1/15 at F11. Very windy day lots of tree movement. Camera mounted on a Star D tripod to allow slower shutter speeds. Microdol-X straight replenished 12 mins at ambient. Development by inspection red safelight Omega DII Omegalite diffusion head Arista #2 RC paper mulitgrade dev Scratches! Used Paterson trays, should have used smooth Cesco trays. This is a wide scale subject, Microdol-X has done a pretty good job once again
 
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Mainecoonmaniac

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Andrew O'Neill said:
In my experience, x-ray film looks better exposed through a light green or yellow filter. I posted some examples over at the LFF, as well as others did.
Click to expand...
Hey thanks for the tip. I’ll give it a try. I rate my HRU at ASA 400 processed in POTA.
 

Andrew O'Neill

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What EI did you use? Just going by the print, it looks like the film could have used a lower EI, to bump up the shadows... Happy to see that Microdol-X works seemingly well!
 

Andrew O'Neill

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Mainecoonmaniac said:
Hey thanks for the tip. I’ll give it a try. I rate my HRU at ASA 400 processed in POTA.
Click to expand...

EI of 400? I always thought for continuous tones, it was closer to EI 80-100 (unfiltered)? Especially in POTA. I've shot Ektascan B/RA, as well as CXS Green Latitude, at EI 40 in POTA. I'd be curious to see your results!
 

Mainecoonmaniac

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Andrew O'Neill said:
EI of 400? I always thought for continuous tones, it was closer to EI 80-100 (unfiltered)? Especially in POTA. I've shot Ektascan B/RA, as well as CXS Green Latitude, at EI 40 in POTA. I'd be curious to see your results!
Click to expand...
Here it is! It's 6 min at 68° with constant agitation. I based the ASA 400 test placing shadows in Zone III. It looks like it has good shadow detail. I really like POTA. It's a a pretty simple recipe and easy to mix. I shot it at 1/15’ f 32 1/2. I processed the film Friday and I didn't get a chance to get densitometer readings yet.
 

Andrew O'Neill

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Yes POTA is great for controlling very contrasty scenes. Worked well for you. Works really well for Adox CMS 20, too.
 

Mainecoonmaniac

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Andrew O'Neill said:
Yes POTA is great for controlling very contrasty scenes. Worked well for you. Works really well for Adox CMS 20, too.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. Do you find Fuji HRT/HRU contrasty film like me? That stuff develops very fast.
 

bnxvs

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For processing Fuji HR-U, I would recommend, among other things, Metolal from Patrick Gainer. In a dilution of 1:50 or 1: 100, it consistently provides sensitivity in the region of EI 200-250 with normal contrast. The difference is only in time (from 3 to 7 minutes). This is a very economical developer, practically replacing the D-23 for me.
I also get very good results in the new HC-110 (dilution "F"). The processing time is in the region of 3-3.5 minutes.
I published the results of HR-U sensitometry in the topic on LF.
 
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Nokton48

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HRU test 2 Norma Handy Sinarsix MicX by Nokton48, on Flickr

Same scene as previously but one stop additional exposure
EI of 25 1/8 F11 Key Day Center Filter Seems to have more highlight and shadow detail

Negative suffered some damage as film was mangled in the Graphmatic sheet holder. I'm switching to regular sheet film holders.
 
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Nokton48

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HRU Pulso Test 210 Componon f22 12 pops MicX by Nokton48, on Flickr

  • Testing my new Broncolor Pulso C171 375 WS Monolight with restored 80x80cm Pulso Softbox about three feet right. Silver Gold reflector on left. Fuji HRU XRay film 4x5 Sinar Norma 180mm chrome Componon Norma Shutter Mic-X replenished straight developr in a flat bottomed Cesco tray. Lisco 4x5 film holder

    F22 I popped the strobe twelve times to build up the density
    The Grey canvas background I painted myself; Just recently put it back up
 

Cholentpot

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My darkroom is all set up and ready to go once it gets dark. I put darkblinds over the window, the door is ok but not perfect. I set up in a closet, put old drapes on inside of closet door and set up the safeflight that is also in a safelight box. I think I double bagged everything to be safe.

I cut a piece of regular printer paper down to 4x5 size and even notched it as a dummy. Marked out the dimensions on my paper cutter with tape and have all the tools laid out.

Any tips or tricks I should be aware of before slitting down the film? What did I forget...
 

Donald Qualls

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MattKing

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Cholentpot

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Donald Qualls

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A red LED by itself might not be safe for ortho materials, but behind a red safelight filter, it ought to be okay -- but you still want to test, because filters can fade over time.
 

Cholentpot

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Donald Qualls said:
A red LED by itself might not be safe for ortho materials, but behind a red safelight filter, it ought to be okay -- but you still want to test, because filters can fade over time.
Click to expand...

I'll use one sheet for testing while I slit a few others. I have a stearman tank in the mail and it fits 4 sheets I think. Shoot 3, use one for test.

The filter is a heavy duty plastic box, not a film. I'd be surprised if it had faded to the point of failure.
 

Andrew O'Neill

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I remember looking at the spectral sensitivity for CXS Green Latitude, and I'm pretty sure the curve dropped at around 575 nm, about where the amber filter starts to become sensitive. I use an amber filter, and I have never had any fogging issues... loading/unloading, as well as during development. My light is a proper darkroom light, with the two baffles on top. It sits on the ceiling, about two metres from the development tray.
 
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