There may be a substantial difference, whether you use this substitute directly or indirectly. Used directly the Ammonium Thiosulfate probably doesn't hurt at all, whereas it could make indirect toning a gamble.
I'll try to remember to ping you after a month to check the condition of the last toner.
Here's the three bottles I prepared together with the bit of remaining sulfur I 'harvested' from broken fixer:
View attachment 405493
The sulfur/hydroxide preparation is the darkest, but it's also the most concentrated.
@koraks: did you get a chance to check?
Not very diligently, but I did dunk one or two small lith test prints into this toner. It seemed to work just fine!
Maybe a little more detail: I tried the preparation made from sodium sulfite and plain sulfur, as well as the sulfer + sodium hydroxide preparation. Both in fairly random dilutions of something like 1+50 or so, as a direct toner, on small lith prints. The lith prints were on Fomatone and pink-ish to begin with. Toning was very swift; I totally overshot the mark with the first one within a minute, turning the pink into a dull brown. The other print I treated more carefully (I think the toner was more dilute as well; I was winging it really) and shifted more subtly. The smell was typical rotten egg and quite powerful at that.
I can see how that might work. It's pretty certain to expel any life from the darkroom as well. Well, any wife, at least.
I can see how that might work. It's pretty certain to expel any life from the darkroom as well. Well, any wife, at least.
If you want Polysulphide toner for cheap, a local JADAM organic farmer/gardener might be able to help since they often make and use it themselves:
Could you please explain the black salt procédé?
another synthesis process which I adapted from a patent:
Sulphur: 40 g
Potassium Hydroxide: 10 g
Boiling water: 100 ml
Shake vigorously for at least 10 minutes.
Let the mixture stand for 24 hours.
Filter the liquid and add water to make volume 1 l.
This also gave me good results but the keeping quality was low. Might have something to do with the reaction continuing after the formation of Poylsulphides. Not sure if 24 hours are strictly needed for the Polysulphides to form. Nice thing about this process compared to the other two is there is no need to work with Sodium Sulphide.
If you want Polysulphide toner for cheap, a local JADAM organic farmer/gardener might be able to help since they often make and use it themselves:
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