here's a little graph for you to help you think about it. I have correctly scaled and overlaid the curve for Kodak T-Max 100 onto the fuji provia 100 curve and marked 3 points 1 of which must be the speed point for provia 100 I think. The red point is the approx speed point for T-Max 100 I think. So do you think the green or the yellow points are the speed point for provia or do you think its somewhere else?
Note: The kodak dev was D76 and the dev time kodak recommend as normal is 6 1/2 minutes so youcan guesstimate where the curves cross. The dev times box is from T-Max 100.
And note that assumming the red and green are the speed points for the two films, then the adjust from speed point would be 4EV and not 3 as I calculated. Please explain that.
And given that a kodak grey card is 2 1/2 stops less than than 100% please explain why -1.0logH is 3 1/3 stops from 100% transmittance. Have you considered that a colour in a slide does not equate via some formula to a density so that 18% grey has no relationship to slide density at all? You can only measure the slide density when you know its an 18% subject reflectance and find out what it is. You can't calculate it.
So once again you must calibrate your exposure if you want it on any specific density or colour. Density only relates to light and dark and not colour unless you are measuring using a colour desitometer which you ain't (so far). And your meter is clueless about colour. It only knows about relative luminance and not colour.
View attachment 153612
The red point is probably right. That's a possible speed point for a B&W negative film I imagine.
As you see, for normal development you end up, for light meter recommendation, which is LogH -1.0, with a density of 1, which is where you also find slide density. That might not be a coincidence, but I cannot say I know why. Maybe LogD = 1 is something people at ISO tend to see as middle grey after all. In any case, the target grey is determined by exposure, not by density. Density is the "byproduct" of it. Obviously there is a relation between the two.
Green point is at the beginning of the shoulder and is the point where you might want to place some deep shadows, something like zone I, being around -1.3 LogH darker than target grey point. Last usable shadow (with serious texture) is probably around LogH -2.0 but one should experiment.
Yellow point is around 2 EV above grey point. That's white region. You could place there some china pottery, some porcelain etc.
I really don't follow your logic when you try to peg some light meter value as some distance from the extremes of the range, such as from 100% transmittance. Minolta tells you that your light meter gives you an exposure of H = 0.1 (i.e. LogH = -0.1 on our graph).
They are the maker of that instrument, so trust them.
The reason why they can say that is that they calibrated their instrument, through many tests, so that when it measures an 18% Lambertian cat it gives an H = 0.1 and the cat will be correctly exposed.
Actually, whatever cat (black, white) will be rendered as 18% grey, and will result in an exposure of H = 0.1, but only the 18% cat will be normally exposed. Every other cat will be underexposed (if whiter) or overexposed (if darker). The fact that the only correctly exposed cat is the 18% cat is ample demonstration that your light meter is calibrated for a particulare shade of grey cat, that is an 18% lambertian cat.
So, after many tests, they "hard-wired" in their lightmeter the relation 18% grey -> H = 0.1. (That means there is a K=14 in their equation but that's not relevant, really. What matters is that metering any subject gives on film an exposure of H = 0.1 which is the correct density to represent 18% grey).
Pure white (90% as in Kodak card) is circa 2.5 EV above middle grey (18%).
That 2.5 EV above middle grey is a region where, depending on the slide film you use, you begin losing texture. If it's china bone porcelain that you want to photograph that might be adequate. If it's a tissue, you don't want to lose texture, you would rather use 2.2, or 2.0, above middle grey. That depends on film also. Astia had a better dynamic range than possibly any material around. Velvia has the worse dynamic range around. With a "normal" slide, 2.0 is good for a white with important texture, let's say, and 2.5 is OK for a white object where texture is not important, such as a marble façade or a white painted wall. That IMHO and YMMV.
I don't know what you mean when you say
please explain why -1.0logH is 3 1/3 stops from 100% transmittance. Did I ever say that? LogH -1.0 is grey point, target grey, LogH
g, is where your spot meter places ANYTHING it measures (at ISO 100). Find this point on the graph. For slide film, it corresponds to LogD = 1. Memorize it. That's where all your reflected light meterings end up being placed by the light meter.
This is a very basic concept. Your reflected light meter will place what it reads at a certain mid-tone, 18%, and Minolta tells you that this 18% is at LogH = -1.0. It is always there. Your reflected light meter (be it spot or average, integrated or hand-hald) always gives you THAT POINT in the film curve. Never one tad to the left or to the right. The lightmeter doesn't know you are measuring china bone, grey cat, black velvet. It sees a certain amount of light. And a reflected light meter gives you the exposure that, on film, gives it LogH = -1.0. It's as easy as that. You always end up with 18% grey (or something that your mind, working on average like the mind of a large sample of human minds, constructs as an 18% grey).
If it's china bone, you end up with an 18% china bone (badly underexposed). If it's black velvet, you end up with an 18% black velvet (not black at all, badly overexposed). Your reflected light meter ALWAYS gives you an image where the metered area is 18% grey.
I don't know why you want to see your light meter working differently from how it does. Even when you use negative film, your light meter always gives you 18% grey. It never gives you "speed point"!
For B&W material, I might be saying some nonsense, and I do request correction if I am wrong. What I think at 01:14 at night is what follows:
If, for your black and white negative, you want to place something on your speed point, you must know where your speed point is relative to H
g and then do the math.
You derive your LogH
m, which let's imagine being -2.3 (from the graph you posted). This is as you know the exposure of your speed point.
LogH
g which is the exposure the light meter gives you, the target grey, is, as we know, -1.0.
In order to place this reading at your M point you must subtract LogH 1.3 or 4.3 EV from the metered indication (add EV). So if you point your lightmeter at some deep shadow where you want to preserve detail, and you read EV9, you place it exactly at EV13.3 and you will have placed it at your speed point.
If your speed point is the lower boundary of your Zone I, and you want to place your shadow at Zone I, you place it 4 EV below light meter reading, in this case at EV 13.
But that depends on how you develop, and on the film curve, and it is naturally crucial how you choose the zone to measure (not easy to deal, visually, with Zone I, I presume). Who cares, you can place zone V, or zone VI, or zone IV, of whatever thing you clearly see that must occupy a certain zone in your negative. The rest will fall accordingly.
You can measure the exact speed point of your final material (given film and development), and determine the distance there is between metered point (target grey) and speed point, if that is what you need (which would be a sensible way to operate with B&W I presume, because you have a point where to place the shadows and than you "roll over" the rest of your SBR up the curve).