• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

Just got a D2 Enlarger!

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
202,654
Messages
2,843,631
Members
101,440
Latest member
bestantenna
Recent bookmarks
0
somebody mentioned about the wattage of enlarger bulbs here, forgot where. How many watt equivalent do we need for an LED bulb? I saw a 100W today in a store, it was like $28.
 
somebody mentioned about the wattage of enlarger bulbs here, forgot where. How many watt equivalent do we need for an LED bulb? I saw a 100W today in a store, it was like $28.

The answer depends so much on the spectral distribution of the LED bulb.
 
My ancient Beseler condenser lamp house used 75 or 150 W opal photo enlarger bulbs 211 or 212. Shaped like an ordinary 75-100W tungsten filament incandescent light bulb. The variable contrast filters are designed for use with tungsten bulbs, that's what I would use.
 
somebody mentioned about the wattage of enlarger bulbs here, forgot where. How many watt equivalent do we need for an LED bulb? I saw a 100W today in a store, it was like $28.

The bulb I use is an equivalent to 60 watts and cost $4. And without remembering that it was in there (I probably would have changed to a tungsten), I enlarged a couple of 4x5 sheets of Ektar - with no strange colouring.

It's cheap enough to give it a try and compare a print with one made using a tungsten bulb.
 
I would have thought that using a LED bulb to print color would have required a new filter pack.
 
I would have thought that using a LED bulb to print color would have required a new filter pack.

The filtration was straightforward. The only part of the prints I would have changed was the blue hue in the shadows. But that was in the scans of the negative, also - and actually more obtrusive in the scans. The colours were overall better in the prints.

But, like I said, it was just a couple of sheets.
 
The filtration was straightforward. The only part of the prints I would have changed was the blue hue in the shadows. But that was in the scans of the negative, also - and actually more obtrusive in the scans. The colours were overall better in the prints.

But, like I said, it was just a couple of
This was with a regular head and some filters in the drawer?
 
The answer depends so much on the spectral distribution of the LED bulb.
I'm thinking if I match the color temperature of the enlarger bulb with a corresponding LED bulb, it should produce the same spectral distribution.

A GE enlarger bulb has these specs, namely 3050K color temperature:
1679531867618.png


There are LED bulbs with same temperature:
1679531919423.png


I'm thinking an LED bulb with the same temperature should produce a similar spectral curve/peak as an incandescent bulb, or at least closest to it among other LED types.
 
Last edited:
Glass negative carriers are the way to deal with potential film buckling.
Just got a glass carrier, 6x9, Besseler make, but it pops into Omega D2 snugly. Think I will also use this for 6x4.5 and 6x6 by making some masks.
 
Last edited:
I'm thinking if I match the color temperature of the enlarger bulb with a corresponding LED bulb, it should produce the same spectral distribution.

A GE enlarger bulb has these specs, namely 3050K color temperature:
View attachment 333380

There are LED bulbs with same temperature:
View attachment 333381

I'm thinking an LED bulb with the same temperature should produce a similar spectral curve/peak as an incandescent bulb, or at least closest to it among other LED types.

LED bulbs have spiky spectra - no gaps, but nothing close to the continuous nature of an incandescent source, such as halogen.
The colour temperature is essentially the result of averaging the spikes. If the sensitivity of the emulsion components isn't well matched to the spikes, its behavior can be a challenge.
CRI is a relatively poor measurement of how non-spiky the light output. The measurements that are better aren't found on bulbs we have easy access to.
I have some backup LED substitutes for the halogen bulbs my enlargers are designed for. I can print with them, but the variable contrast behavior is different and somewhat "unpredictable" when compared with the proper halogen source - the grade spacing is not very linear at all.
Colour printing with the LED source would most likely be extremely disappointing - but then I am unusually particular there.
 
Cones are plentiful and cheap. The enlarger was engineered to be used with cones for the 4x5 (135mm) lenses.

Look for the one that’s 2 3/4”
Here is my “sewer pipe” mod For my old d2. I drilled four small holes on the lens board and used #2 wood screws to hold to the pipe. Same for the ring that goes to the enlarger. The sewer pipe is the coupling that joins two pipe together.

1679975181814.jpeg
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom