Ilford XP2 Super in B&W chemicals

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drmoss_ca

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I don't think it will be any surprise to anyone here that Ilford XP2 Super, a chromogenic film normally processed in C-41 chemicals, can be developed in ordinary black and white chemicals too. If you don't do your own processing, this wouldn't make a lot of sense, but if you do, it saves money by not using colour chemistry, and it allows pull and push processing, which is surprisingly satisfying with this film.

When I first started to do this, about three years ago, it was simply to reduce grain. I'm old enough that I was brought up in the day when film was the only option, and the reduction of grain was a constant quest. There isn't so much silver in a chromogenic film as a regular black and white film, and I thought to see if I could find a pleasing balance, avoiding on one hand the excessively smooth (some would say 'plasticky) look of XP2 in C-41 chemicals, but also avoiding too much grain. I saw a couple of examples of dilute Rodinal (or equivalent) being used for stand development. My experience was that this only worked well to give fine grain if the film was exposed at EI 200.


Dan
by chrism229, on Flickr
XP2 Super in 35mm, Blazinal 1+100, one hour, six inversions at start and at 30 minutes

So I began to experiment with other developers, and the first two here work, but not perhaps so well as the Rodinal. Diafine worked, and it didn't make much difference whether the film was exposed at EI 200 or 400:


Cartwheel
by chrism229, on Flickr
XP2 Super in 35mm, EI 200, Diafine 3 minutes A and B


Bridge
by chrism229, on Flickr
XP2 Super in 35mm, ISO 400, Diafine 3 minutes A & B

I even used some oddball mixtures such as Qualls' monobath:


Balmoral Kirk #1
by chrism229, on Flickr
XP2 Super in 35mm, Qualls' Monobath for six minutes

But both seemed to be more gritty than I wanted. Then I discovered HC-110, which makes for a sublime pairing with XP2. You can use the traditional Dilution E of 1 part US concentrate to 47 parts of water, but I have chosen to work with 1 + 49, as it makes the math easier in my head! It doesn't seem to make any difference to the development.

So here is medium format XP2 at EI 400 in 1+49 HC-110 for eight minutes:


Pippa 2017 #3
by chrism229, on Flickr

That looked OK to me, but the scan needed quite a lot of lightening and its histogram was crowded to the left, so I decided to develop for ten minutes to darken the negative, and move the histogram towards the centre:


Squirrel 1
by chrism229, on Flickr
XP2 in 35mm, EI 400, HC-110 1+49, 10 minutes

Having got to the point where I felt confident using XP2 with HC-110, I eventually decided to see if it could be pushed and pulled like a conventional silver halide film, and I'm happy to report that it can!

First I tried pulling it to EI 200 and reducing what was my standard time of eight minutes to only four. Since I have changed my standard time to ten minutes I think this could easily be extended to five minutes, and furthermore, I think it could be exposed at EI 100 too, based on the histograms of my scans. This image was taken indoors, with a bright window included with the aim of getting something in both the dark interior and the bright outside:


Experiments in Pull Processing 3
by chrism229, on Flickr
XP2 in 120, EI 200, HC-110 1+49, 4 minutes

Today I tried exposing a film at EI 1600, and developing it for 18 minutes. I was expecting a high contrast result with some, but, hopefully, acceptable grain. Instead, I got these two:


Experiment in Push Processing 4
by chrism229, on Flickr


Experiment in Push Processing 3
by chrism229, on Flickr

I was very surprised at how normal these photographs appeared to be! In fact, I think I'll try for 3200 and see what happens - it could be a remarkably useful combination if it has as little graininess as it has at 1600. Tentatively, if anyone else wants to experiment, I'd suggest using 1+49 HC-110 at 20ºC, with an agitation regime of four inversions at the outset, and four more every minute. Times ought to be about:
EI 100 4 minutes (not tested yet)
EI 200 6.5 minutes
EI 400 10 minutes
EI 800 13.5 minutes (not tested yet)
EI 1600 18 minutes
EI 3200 24 minutes (not tested yet)

Chromogenic films were introduced as a way to allow the public to get B&W images easily developed once the C-41 process had become predominant and it was both difficult and expensive to find someone to develop your B&W film. Now we live in a different world, and I'd guess that an awful lot of the B&W film sold - maybe most of it - will be developed at home. However, I still get people on certain forums telling me that XP2 cannot be developed this way! It would be nice if Ilford would sanction this way of developing XP2, as more people would use it if they knew they could develop it this way, and anything that sells film is good for all of us. I do apologise for the word 'scans' in the above; I haven't tried to wet print an XP2 negative, and I'm not likely to do so given the dusty state of my enlargers. None of us is perfect.

Chris
 

btaylor

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Really nice images, the film looks great. I am curious as to how it would wet-print, has anyone tried a traditional enlargement?
 

MattKing

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I wonder if there are any down sides with respect to this when considering the longevity of the negatives.
Do the infra-red based systems like ICE work with these negatives?
In any event, thanks for sharing your results.
I too would be interested in the results for those who optically print their work.
 

Rudeofus

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@MattKing ICE can only work with dye images, but not with silver images. Dye image is transparent to IR light, and that's how ICE distinguishes between image and dust/scratches.

@drmoss_ca One major advantage of C-41 processing is the increase in sharpness achieved by DIR-couplers. There is a remote chance, that you can get the same effect from Rodinal, because oxidized p-Aminophenol can enter coupling reaction. AFAIK there will be no coupler reaction with oxidized Hydroquinone, therefore HC-110 could/should produce less sharpness than C-41 or Rodinal. Could you go check you negs whether there is a visible sharpness difference?
 
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drmoss_ca

drmoss_ca

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One major advantage of C-41 processing is the increase in sharpness achieved by DIR-couplers. There is a remote chance, that you can get the same effect from Rodinal, because oxidized p-Aminophenol can enter coupling reaction. AFAIK there will be no coupler reaction with oxidized Hydroquinone, therefore HC-110 could/should produce less sharpness than C-41 or Rodinal. Could you go check you negs whether there is a visible sharpness difference?

That's an interesting point. I have thrown some XP2 in with colour films when I had both to process at once, so I can compare C-41, Rodinal and HC-110, but I use all sorts of cameras and I don't have truly comparable images taken with the same lens of the same subject and then processed all three ways. I haven't noticed a pattern of consistent differences in sharpness, but perhaps it's there, and plain to someone with a loupe!

Chris
 

Rudeofus

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Camera and lens won't have any influence on frame numbers and markings, assuming there are no light leaks, so you can check there.
 
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I don't think it will be any surprise to anyone here that Ilford XP2 Super, a chromogenic film normally processed in C-41 chemicals, can be developed in ordinary black and white chemicals too. If you don't do your own processing, this wouldn't make a lot of sense, but if you do, it saves money by not using colour chemistry, and it allows pull and push processing, which is surprisingly satisfying with this film.

When I first started to do this, about three years ago, it was simply to reduce grain. I'm old enough that I was brought up in the day when film was the only option, and the reduction of grain was a constant quest. There isn't so much silver in a chromogenic film as a regular black and white film, and I thought to see if I could find a pleasing balance, avoiding on one hand the excessively smooth (some would say 'plasticky) look of XP2 in C-41 chemicals, but also avoiding too much grain. I saw a couple of examples of dilute Rodinal (or equivalent) being used for stand development. My experience was that this only worked well to give fine grain if the film was exposed at EI 200.


Dan
by chrism229, on Flickr
XP2 Super in 35mm, Blazinal 1+100, one hour, six inversions at start and at 30 minutes

So I began to experiment with other developers, and the first two here work, but not perhaps so well as the Rodinal. Diafine worked, and it didn't make much difference whether the film was exposed at EI 200 or 400:


Cartwheel
by chrism229, on Flickr
XP2 Super in 35mm, EI 200, Diafine 3 minutes A and B


Bridge
by chrism229, on Flickr
XP2 Super in 35mm, ISO 400, Diafine 3 minutes A & B

I even used some oddball mixtures such as Qualls' monobath:


Balmoral Kirk #1
by chrism229, on Flickr
XP2 Super in 35mm, Qualls' Monobath for six minutes

But both seemed to be more gritty than I wanted. Then I discovered HC-110, which makes for a sublime pairing with XP2. You can use the traditional Dilution E of 1 part US concentrate to 47 parts of water, but I have chosen to work with 1 + 49, as it makes the math easier in my head! It doesn't seem to make any difference to the development.

So here is medium format XP2 at EI 400 in 1+49 HC-110 for eight minutes:


Pippa 2017 #3
by chrism229, on Flickr

That looked OK to me, but the scan needed quite a lot of lightening and its histogram was crowded to the left, so I decided to develop for ten minutes to darken the negative, and move the histogram towards the centre:


Squirrel 1
by chrism229, on Flickr
XP2 in 35mm, EI 400, HC-110 1+49, 10 minutes

Having got to the point where I felt confident using XP2 with HC-110, I eventually decided to see if it could be pushed and pulled like a conventional silver halide film, and I'm happy to report that it can!

First I tried pulling it to EI 200 and reducing what was my standard time of eight minutes to only four. Since I have changed my standard time to ten minutes I think this could easily be extended to five minutes, and furthermore, I think it could be exposed at EI 100 too, based on the histograms of my scans. This image was taken indoors, with a bright window included with the aim of getting something in both the dark interior and the bright outside:


Experiments in Pull Processing 3
by chrism229, on Flickr
XP2 in 120, EI 200, HC-110 1+49, 4 minutes

Today I tried exposing a film at EI 1600, and developing it for 18 minutes. I was expecting a high contrast result with some, but, hopefully, acceptable grain. Instead, I got these two:


Experiment in Push Processing 4
by chrism229, on Flickr


Experiment in Push Processing 3
by chrism229, on Flickr

I was very surprised at how normal these photographs appeared to be! In fact, I think I'll try for 3200 and see what happens - it could be a remarkably useful combination if it has as little graininess as it has at 1600. Tentatively, if anyone else wants to experiment, I'd suggest using 1+49 HC-110 at 20ºC, with an agitation regime of four inversions at the outset, and four more every minute. Times ought to be about:
EI 100 4 minutes (not tested yet)
EI 200 6.5 minutes
EI 400 10 minutes
EI 800 13.5 minutes (not tested yet)
EI 1600 18 minutes
EI 3200 24 minutes (not tested yet)

Chromogenic films were introduced as a way to allow the public to get B&W images easily developed once the C-41 process had become predominant and it was both difficult and expensive to find someone to develop your B&W film. Now we live in a different world, and I'd guess that an awful lot of the B&W film sold - maybe most of it - will be developed at home. However, I still get people on certain forums telling me that XP2 cannot be developed this way! It would be nice if Ilford would sanction this way of developing XP2, as more people would use it if they knew they could develop it this way, and anything that sells film is good for all of us. I do apologise for the word 'scans' in the above; I haven't tried to wet print an XP2 negative, and I'm not likely to do so given the dusty state of my enlargers. None of us is perfect.

Chris
great and thanks for sharing.what isthe rest of your processing?how about stop,fixing,washing?
 

flavio81

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Chris,

WOW!
WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW
WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW
WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW
WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW
WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW
WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW
WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW

Greatest post i've seen this year at APUG!! You're my hero!!

This is more than excellent news! I have some XP2 waiting to be used and I don't use it because of the need to go to a color lab...
It looks FANTASTIC at 1600 ISO, really FANTASTIC!!

I need to try this at home!!
 
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drmoss_ca

drmoss_ca

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great and thanks for sharing.what isthe rest of your processing?how about stop,fixing,washing?

Pretty boring and ordinary: about a minute in Kodak Stop bath, agitated for the first 30 seconds, and then Ilford Rapid Fixer, five minutes if fresh (films 1 - 20), and eight minutes when getting older (films 21 - 30; I make up fresh after 30 films) using the same agitation as in the developer. Then washing by ten fills and emptying of the tank with the lid off, and finally a minute in PhotoFlo.

Chris

Greatest post i've seen this year at APUG!!

And it's only March, so there's lots of time for you to overshadow me!

Today I'll scan the sides of three negatives to see if there is a difference in sharpness of the film name, then the next tasks will be to try 3200, 800 and 100.
Finally, and this might be an eye-opener, I'll try pushing some XP2 in 35mm, where any grain is going to show up better. I'm afraid there's going to be some photos that are boring in content, but for these purposes I hope you'll forgive that as they are only to demonstrate what can be achieved by these unorthodox methods.
 

klaus3428

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First post here - been lurking a while ...

This thread is really interesting.
It never occurred to me that XP2 could be developed in B+W chemistry. Always sent them off for C41 dev. Another thing to try.
Would this work for FujiNeopanCN and KodakB&WCN also? Have a few outdated ones hanging around.
 

pentaxuser

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As a printer only and not a scanner person, it worries me whether the prints from these negatives would pose printing problems that are not so easily solved. In theory prints from these negative scans look as if they should be fine but I cannot help but wonder why developing XP2+ in B&W chemicals gets so little favourable mention when it seems to hold no problems

The classic responses to anyone asking about XP2+ in B&W chemicals have always centred around comments about very thin negatives which may be difficult to print and the implication that the user is settling for second best.

It would be nice to see prints from the same scene, taken by XP2+ which was developed in C41 and then B&W.

Maybe we have just trotted out "perceived wisdom" on the drawbacks of XP2+ in B&W chemicals and maybe we have been wrong?

It looks as if hybrid users have no drawbacks but a comparison would be worth a lot to us, darkroom printers

pentaxuser
 
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drmoss_ca

drmoss_ca

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Well, Rudeofus has put his finger on something: there is a difference in sharpness of the annotations on the film edge.
C-41:


Rodinal:


HC-110:


There is one difficulty with these scans, and that's because they were made on a Hasselblad X1, and if you know what the holders are like you will appreciate that to scan the edge that edge of the film strip was unsupported. The 'Virtual drum' ought to nullify any variation in height from the CCD, but it might not be perfect, but that probably explains the weird 'O' in the Rodinal version of the word 'Ilford". All scanned at 3000dpi and no adjustments made.

I don't feel this is an issue in practice. There's enough sharpness on here to keep me happy as I'm not trying to recreate the output of a digital camera:


Royal York Clock 2
by chrism229, on Flickr

I think the bigger question is whether they are suitable for wet printing - they may well not be. I'll leave that up to you. Now I must go and see if 3200 gives anything usable.
 

tezzasmall

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Really nice images, the film looks great. I am curious as to how it would wet-print, has anyone tried a traditional enlargement?

I haven't tried 35mm XP2 a couple of times in anything other than C41 at the local Snappy Snaps, but this thread has got me wondering.

For info, the negs done in C41 came back looking VERY thin at ISO 400 BUT printed beautifully and very easily on grade 3. The hardest part was the focusing of the negs on the baseboard, due to lack of grain. Other than that, I found the film to be great to use, producing good 12 x16 (grain free) prints.

WHEN I get around to shooting another (test) roll, I will definitely process in Rodinal and do wet prints to see how it all goes and report back. :smile:
 

MattKing

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For info, the negs done in C41 came back looking VERY thin at ISO 400 BUT printed beautifully and very easily on grade 3. The hardest part was the focusing of the negs on the baseboard, due to lack of grain. Other than that, I found the film to be great to use, producing good 12 x16 (grain free) prints.
I've had similar experience.
I think the "thin" appearance of the C41 developed negatives is more an illusion than anything else, due to how the dye clouds appear vs how developed silver in traditional B&W film appears to the naked eye.
 

bvy

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I wonder if there are any down sides with respect to this when considering the longevity of the negatives.
My thought as well. For instance, shouldn't you still use a final rinse instead of plain PhotoFlo?

I also read somewhere that Acufine used to publish times for developing XP2 in Diafine, but I don't see it in the current documentation. Now there's a combination to try -- especially at 1600 or 3200. I have both on hand, and I'm tempted.
 

NJH

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The lab I use sometimes convinced me to try this, he uses ID-11 for everything B&W in one of those fancy processing machines. He reckoned that XP was very popular processed this way with news photographers back in the 80s as it gave really good results around 1600 ISO. I wasn't a huge fan of the results to be honest, very strong edge effects like an etching and fairly strong spread out grain but I guess fairly broad tonality. Some may of course find those effects ideal as its a pretty unique filmic look. I very very rarely shoot above 800 ISO and have never used Delta 3200 so I have no idea how it compares.
 

bdial

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...My thought as well. For instance, shouldn't you still use a final rinse instead of plain PhotoFlo?...

My understanding, based on PE's discussions on the subject, is that the stabilizer treatment for C-41 films is required so that mold and fungus don't grow, as there is no silver to inhibit them. My speculation would be that if the silver isn't bleached out, then a plain rinse agent is probably ok. But, IDK.

I like the OP's results though.
 

MattKing

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My thought as well. For instance, shouldn't you still use a final rinse instead of plain PhotoFlo
If I understand correctly, the C41 process removes developed silver and leaves dye clouds. The final rinse is or may be needed to protect film that no longer has silver in it.
In comparison the black and white development process leaves the silver in the film, and that silver is anti-bacterial in nature.
My concern is related to whether the black and white development process leaves are other components left in the film (such as couplers?)
EDIT: bdail beat me to it.
 

pentaxuser

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Well the edge markings in C41 do look sharper than the comparable B&W developers but if I could get the sharpness of the Royal York Clock picture in #17 in say an 11x14 print or even a 8x10 from a 35mm negative and at about grade 3 I'd be quite satisfied.

pentaxuser
 
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drmoss_ca

drmoss_ca

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@bvy: There's a couple of Diafine examples above. 3+3 minutes, but there is some graininess.
Nothing to stop me using some C-41 stabiliser after the PhotoFlo, but I often find myself using PhotoFlo on colour negatives after the stabiliser as I often get a white deposit and/or drying marks with stabiliser as the last bath, especially with Superia 400 for some reason (I'm using the Unicolor presskit). I do have three year old negatives developed as above that are looking quite pristine in their Photofile sleeves. But that's an argument for another thread.

Well I went and did it. XP2 Super at 3200, developed in HC-110 1+49 for 24 minutes. I reduced the agitation a bit given that it would be done so many times over 24 minutes, so just three inversions each minute rather than four. I forgot to mention above that I presoak the film in water for three minutes, which we can also fight over. It does remove an awful lot of purple anti-halation from 120 XP2, but very little from the 35mm version.


Experiment in Push Processing 5
by chrism229, on Flickr

No grain! If you click on the link there's a 4096x4096 85% JPEG. Click on that to see at 100%. All this effort to make a file that could have come out of the Monochrom! There's certainly more contrast, but it's still a decent result for situations where you have to use 3200 to get a picture at all.

Chris
 
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