Here's some links to my results with C-41 film in this process.
Kodak Gold 400:
https://i.redd.it/ghgmouphn2711.jpg
Superia 400:
http://earlz.net/films/xpro-reversal/jpeg/haley-push.jpg
@Cholentpot -- You must take the film off the reels in order to fog it. I'd recommend using a different source than CFCLs since they have gaps in their light spectrum. I've used a simple thing like an iphone flashlight in the past with no problems. I see the scans, but what did the results look like to the eye? Was the exposed leader (ie, should be "clear") portions very dark, or did it just look like orange mask? This process does NOT remove the orange mask, but you can correct it out in photoshop just like with color negative. If the film looked mostly clear (ie, just orange mask) then this was probably caused by shooting it at such a low ISO (25 rather than 200).
On the other hand, if the film is super dense, then it's most likely that the first developer wasn't active enough, and with such a long color development process, that probably didn't help things. I've heard paper developers work well for this process when used at paper strength, but I don't have any times or temperatures.
Also for fogging. If you didn't fog it properly, then the results would be a nearly clear strip of film, since the color developer wouldn't have worked on anything and everything would be stripped by blix.