Home-made Olympus Pen F lens adapters

[xkaes]

I don't really need one, but I was advising someone interested in finding a Pen-F lens adapter, and I realized that there is an option for any DIY-er.

Instead of trying to find the Olympus Pen F adapter that you need (pretty hard) and at a price you can afford (even harder!), you should be able to make one yourself.

All you need are a Pen F body cap, and an extension tube for the lens(es) that you want to attach to the Pen F.

Cut the center out of the body cap, and find an extension tube of the correct length for infinity focusing. If it's not exact, find one that is slightly shorter and add some gasket material.

Glue them together, and you are all set.

Am I nuts???

 

[r_a_feldman]

I don't really need one, but I was advising someone interested in finding a Pen-F lens adapter, and I realized that there is an option for any DIY-er.

Instead of trying to find the Olympus Pen F adapter that you need (pretty hard) and at a price you can afford (even harder!), you should be able to make one yourself.

All you need are a Pen F body cap, and an extension tube for the lens(es) that you want to attach to the Pen F.

Cut the center out of the body cap, and find an extension tube of the correct length for infinity focusing. If it's not exact, find one that is slightly shorter and add some gasket material.

Glue them together, and you are all set.

Am I nuts???

I have made Pen F adapters for both OM-1 and Nikon F lenses. I started with TWO extension tubes, one Pen F (to get the correct male bayonet) and one OM-1/Nikon F (for the female bayonet). I made them a number of years ago, when Pen F extension tubes could be purchased for a reasonable price. At the time, there was an article online about how to make a Pen F adapter for Nikon F lenses — try googling for that — that served as my guide.

<edit> This is one example of making an adapter, but not the one I remember: https://kyp.hauslendale.com/classics/penadapter.html </edit>

I will try to post photos of my adapters here tomorrow.

As to your last question, I will avoid answering that .

 

[xkaes]

The first thing I did was check the prices on Minolta & Pen F extension tubes. The Minolta versions (old non-automatic) were about 10% of the price of the Pen F models. That's why I thought of using a Minolta extension tube -- with a Pen F body cap instead.

I'm not surprised that others have been down this road before me.

 

[r_a_feldman]

<snip>

All you need are a Pen F body cap, and an extension tube for the lens(es) that you want to attach to the Pen F.

Cut the center out of the body cap, and find an extension tube of the correct length for infinity focusing. If it's not exact, find one that is slightly shorter and add some gasket material.

Glue them together, and you are all set.

Am I nuts???

I see two main problems with this approach:

1. It will be difficult to get the optical axis of the lens mount aligned (parallel and concentric) with the Pen F body cap.

2. I would not trust a glued joint to support a heavy lens without breaking off.

By using two extension tubes (or a cheap teleconverter without the optics) and fitting one tube inside the other, you can align the optical axes and provide support for the lens. I drilled and tapped for set screws to keep the tubes joined at the correct distance.

 

[xkaes]

Thanks, I had not thought about using a "trashed out" Pen F tele-converter or T-mount, etc as an alternative to a body cap, but that makes sense. I'm sure I can find something pretty cheap.

 

[r_a_feldman]

Here are pictures of my adapters:

OM-1 to Pen F:

The OM adapter needed a tab (sheet brass) to hold the diaphragm stopped down.


Nikon F to Pen F Adapter:

The explanation of the process at https://kyp.hauslendale.com/classics/penadapter.html is very good.

I do not have a machine shop or a milling machine (which would have been useful), only a drill press, belt sander and Dremel grinder, along with an old micrometer of my father's. I also have small jeweler's files and 1-72 and 0-80 drills and taps from my model railroad scratch-building days. I would say that I am mechanically apt, but I do not think the job was that difficult.

As explained in the kyp.hausendale site, you probably will need to either reduce the outer diameter of the Pen F tube or enlarge the inner diameter of the lens adapter tube. I drilled and tapped three holes in the lens adapter at 120 degrees apart for 1-72 set screws. After sliding the Pen tube into the lens tube, I loosely tightened the set screws and measured the flange-to-flange distance (e.g., 17.55mm for Nikon F lenses), adjusting it as needed before tightening the set screws.

 

[xkaes]

I don't have the issue of using an auto-diaphragm lens. Even though almost all Minolta-type lenses have an auto-diaphragm, unless the auto-diaphragm pin is pressed, the lens simply stops down as the aperture ring is turned.. Some of the early Minolta lenses had stop-down levers on the lenses to over-ride the auto-diaphragm when the lens was on the camera, but this feature was moved into the camera body with the SRT cameras. But using the lenses without the auto-diaphragm is not a big deal to me, and it makes the adaptation simpler.

But my initial search hasn't uncover anything "on the cheap" with a rear Pen F lens mount. Fortunately, I'm not in a rush. I'm sure I'll run into an off-brand, trashed out lens or extension tube soon enough.

 

[xkaes]

Here's my solution, and it might be helpful to others looking for an inexpensive, DIY Pen F adapter.

The "trick" that makes it easier is by using two (or more) step up rings. The step-up rings can be used because the Pen F lens mount is going to be smaller than any lens mount that you want to add to it.

I'm dealing with Minolta lenses, but the approach will be the same with other lenses -- although the distances and diameters will vary for Nikon, Canon, Pentax, etc.

I started out by getting a Pen F lens mount and a Minolta camera mount. There are lots of options here, and many have been mentioned above, such as old or broken extension tubes, lens adapters, lenses or cameras.

The Minolta camera mount that I chose is from the Minolta Extension Tube II set. You can get these for under $10, and they don't have to be in mint condition. The mount from this set is the thinnest mount that I could find that retains the lens release button. It's only TWO millimeters thick!!!

The same is true for the Olympus lens mount -- it can be in pretty bad shape -- and it might not need the lens release button. The one I found lacks the lens release button but fits perfectly -- without any fear of slipping off.

The front of the Olympus lens mount that I have is a perfect match for the rear of a 49mm step-up ring, and the rear of the Minolta camera mount that I have is a perfect match for the front of a 58mm step-up ring,

So all I did was combine a 49-55mm step up ring and a 55-58mm step-up ring in between the Olympus lens mount and the Minolta camera mount. A 49-52mm step up ring and a 52-58mm step-up ring would have worked just as well -- as would a 49-52mm step up ring and a 52-55mm step-up ring and a 55-58mm step-up ring, if more space is needed.

It's critical to get the distance right, of course.

The genuine Olympus Minolta to Pen F adapter that I have is 14.5mm thick -- so that was my goal. The Olympus lens mount and the Minolta camera mount that I found have a 3.5mm total width, so I need step-up rings that add 11mm total distance in between.

Step-up rings vary slightly in thickness, but one advantage of using TWO (or more, if needed) step-up rings is that they can be adjusted slightly to produce the correct amount of depth. A little epoxy will cement the depth, once it is established.

I was able to find two step-up rings that created the correct depth that I needed using a caliper. I then attached a 200mm lens (equivalent to a 300mm in half-frame) -- focused at infinity, to verify that the depth was correct for infinity focusing.

The last step before epoxying it all together was to make sure the Minolta lens index mark was on the top of the adapter (when attached to the Pen F camera).

The only thing I'll add is that you should check the adapter for light leaks. A little bit of black silicone sealant should do the trick. I had to plug three screw-holes in the Pen F lens mount -- but since they were inside the camera that was really not necessary.

The total cost will vary depending on what you already have. Mine cost me about $20 -- about 1/10th of the real McCoy.

 

[Petrochemist]

I've made a number of impossible to find adapters using body caps. The first for a 1920's Kodak lens designed to fix to a lens board which I then used on a set of bellows as considerable extension was needed to focus. That was nearly 15 years ago now!
bellows IMGP2838 by Mike Kanssen, on Flickr

Several tiny lenses have been shimmed to the right distance then stuck in place, but none of those have proved of real interest in use.

Most of the time I use helicoids to give a variable extension, which can significantly boost the focusing range. Often this is combined with commercial adapters (camera to M42, helicoid, M42 to lens) but for this microscope objective I needed to get a bit more Heath-Robinson.
ultra macro lens set up by Mike Kanssen, on Flickr

By combining the zoom & helicoid the finished article above can focus from infinity down to 9cm where it reaches three times life size. Vignetting on an infinity focus test shows it's not perfectly centered (this only changes the framing slightly and is easily corrected in just the same way framing is usually done. There doesn't seem to be any issue with tilt at all =though for macro use this wouldn't matter, (just causing the camera to need to be tilted to bring the plain of focus back).

Combining lens rear cap & camera body cap is a potential way to create to make adapters that are not available, but I've not attempted this yet.

As for nuts, I've only found little ones to be any use, even when mounting a monster like my 150mm 1.3
A challenging lens by Mike Kanssen, on Flickr
I think 4 M4 nuts & bolts mounted the flange to the lens board, 6 would have been preferable but the side ones fouled on the standard.

 

[loccdor]

@xkaes Can we see some pictures of your adapted Pen?

 

[xkaes]

Here is a comparison of the Olympus-made Minolta adapter (right) and my DIY model (left). The front of the DIY model is wider, but that's of no consequence.

The DIY consists of four parts: Olympus lens mount, TWO step-up rings, Minolta camera mount: This shows how thin the Minolta camera mount is -- and the all-important lens release button.

This is the other side. The two step-up rings are not glued together. The other parts fit together fine -- with the help of a little epoxy.

 

[xkaes]

There appears to be a "fly in the ointment". I only tested my DIY adapter with Minolta MC lenses. A problem arises when using MD lenses.

The MD tab sticks out about 2mm more than the MC tab on the lens. And as mentioned in my previous post, my DIY adapter is slightly wider than the original Olympus-to-Minolta adapter.

While this is not a problem on the original Olympus-to-Minolta adapter, on my DIY adapter, the MD tab presses against the Minolta camera mount, and the f-stop ring cannot be adjusted.

This problem might not afflict all MD lenses, but it's something to watch out for. It's only a 0.X mm difference -- so the MD lenses will fit on the adapter fine, but the f-stop ring might not turn.

Many MD lenses might work correctly, but some -- like the one I tested -- might get stuck.

Solutions?

#1 -- use a Minolta camera mount that is slimmer (smaller diameter) -- if you can find one -- to avoid the problem. Minolta exactly addressed this problem when they came out with their MD AUTO Extension tube set -- replacing the MC AUTO Extension Tube set.

#2 file down the MD tab on your MD lenses by 0.5mm. Maybe you are like me and don't have any cameras that actually use the MD tab -- (XD-series, X-700) -- problem solved.

 

[Petrochemist]

There appears to be a "fly in the ointment". I only tested my DIY adapter with Minolta MC lenses. A problem arises when using MD lenses.

The MD tab sticks out about 2mm more than the MC tab on the lens. And as mentioned in my previous post, my DIY adapter is slightly wider than the original Olympus-to-Minolta adapter.

While this is not a problem on the original Olympus-to-Minolta adapter, on my DIY adapter, the MD tab presses against the Minolta camera mount, and the f-stop ring cannot be adjusted.

This problem might not afflict all MD lenses, but it's something to watch out for. It's only a 0.X mm difference -- so the MD lenses will fit on the adapter fine, but the f-stop ring might not turn.

Many MD lenses might work correctly, but some -- like the one I tested -- might get stuck.

Solutions?

#1 -- use a Minolta camera mount that is slimmer (smaller diameter) -- if you can find one -- to avoid the problem. Minolta exactly addressed this problem when they came out with their MD AUTO Extension tube set -- replacing the MC AUTO Extension Tube set.

#2 file down the MD tab on your MD lenses by 0.5mm. Maybe you are like me and don't have any cameras that actually use the MD tab -- (XD-series, X-700) -- problem solved.

I suspect this may come down to normal variation in lenses rather than a MD/MC difference. To work a physical tab must be greater than a certain minimum length (A), and not so long (B) that it fouls on other parts, individual lenses will vary between these extremes with A & B being defined in the mount specification. I have seen quite a bit of variation in tab lengths on PK lenses, I'm fairly sure some have been well over a mm longer than others.

If it's only one of your lenses that has the issue I'd be inclined to file the tab (being careful to stop filings getting onto the lens where they could later migrate into the camera). Careful sealing with masking tape before filing manages this.

 

[xkaes]

I'm sure there is some small variation from lens to lens, but I'm lucky only because I don't have many MD lenses. If it's too long, filing down the MD tab a small amount is not a big deal -- and will still allow the MD tab to work correctly.

Minolta ran into a similar problem when they added the MC tab to their lenses. If an MC lens was attached to some of the very early NON-MC cameras, the MC tab would bump into the top of a small screw that prevented the lens from locking in place. Minolta solved the problem by offering to replace the screw -- for free -- with a screw having a flush head.

 

[aw614]

I wanted to modify the Pen F to EOS adapter to work with the Minolta lens I have. I haven't looked further into it outside of looking for an EOS to Minolta Adapter that did not have a glass element.

But the general idea I had was to either swap flanges/mounts and shave down parts to get the current flange distance to match the Minolta one. Since the EOS flange is 44.00 vs the Minolta at 43.5

 

[xkaes]

Solutions?

#1 -- use a Minolta camera mount that is slimmer (smaller diameter) -- if you can find one -- to avoid the problem. Minolta exactly addressed this problem when they came out with their MD AUTO Extension tube set -- replacing the MC AUTO Extension Tube set.

I've got to correct this because Minolta solved the problem early on. There are actually TWO versions of the EXTENSION TUBE SET II. The later version -- which is labeled exactly the same solves the problem.

 

[xkaes]

Here's a follow-up with a shot of my two Pen FT cameras.

The one on the right has an Olympus Minolta-to-Pen F adapter with a Minolta MC Rokkor-X 35mm f2.8 -- perfect as a normal lens.

The other has my all-metal, DIY, Minolta-to-Pen F adapter with a Vivitar Series 1 (Cosina) 24-70mm f3.8/4.8 Macro Zoom -- similar to a full-frame 35-105mm.

 

[loccdor]

Not a homemade adapter, but I confirmed that a Sigma 135mm f/1.8 DG HSM ART lens can be adapted to a Pen via the EOS-Pen F adapter. Focusing works. You have to preset the aperture by stopping it down on your EOS camera while you dismount the lens from it, so you're stuck with the same aperture after you mount it on the Pen, unless you carry an EOS body around with you.

This lens should be able to out-resolve almost any film so it's great for the small format. It's equivalent to just about 200mm when mounted to the Pen. You do end up holding the lens rather than the camera in use!

What would be really cool is if there was a way to supply an electric connection to the EOS lenses that would enable image stabilization. I don't think it would be very complicated to engineer - on a half-press, a signal gets sent to the lens to engage IS, when the half-press is disengaged, IS is off. It would need a button on the adapter along with a battery.

 

[loccdor]

I learned a little bit of FreeCAD and I made a prototype for a Canon New FD lens to Olympus Pen F camera adapter. It will probably need a little adjustment, after I make a version 2 I'll publish the file here if there is interest so you can print your own.

 

[xkaes]

I recently discovered that the library systems around here -- and across the Country -- offer free 3D printing. All you need to do is get the file for what you want to print and send it to their portal. Then they email you when it's ready for pickup. There are restrictions, of course, such as the size and number of items. So you don't have to know anything about 3D printing, and there are lots of websites with catalogs of 3D items.

I needed a few plastic tips for my Minolta SRT film advance levers. I found a website that had a file for this, and had the library print a dozen for me -- for free! They are a perfect fit. Mind were made from green "plastic", so I'll need to paint them glassy black and epoxy them in place.

 

[r_a_feldman]

I just saw on eBay where someone is selling a 3D printed middle part of a Minolta MD to Pen F adapter. You still need to supply a female MD bayonet and male Pen F bayonet.

Edit: I also see on eBay a new Chinese-made Nikon F to Pen F adapter ring.

 

[loccdor]

I have the Canon EF to Pen F and the Olympus OM to Canon EF. The others I saw were going for hundreds. I saw one very old listing of a Canon FD to Pen F, they were made, but very rare.

 

[loccdor]

The thing currently getting in the way is the aperture pin. Canon FD back caps have 13.8mm of inside length past the flange of the Canon FD lens. I think the actual aperture pin is about 12mm past the flange.

The flange difference between the mounts is 13.05mm, so it's very tight to mount an FD to a Pen without the aperture pin touching it. Trying to figure out a workaround. If I do I think I would print it out of Carbon Fiber Nylon.

 

[xkaes]

I just discovered a similar problem, but this pertains to the Minolta-to-Pen adapters. Mine is a genuine Pen adapter, but it might be pertinent to home-made ones as well.

Lenses made with auto-diaphragms for cameras with a Minolta SLR mount have a pin on the rear. It keeps the aperture open until the shutter release is pressed. I discovered today that if this pin is too long, it sticks in the OPEN position when on the Pen adapter.

This does not pertain to all lenses, and I only discovered this today on ONE lens. It hasn't happened on any other lens I used with the Pen, but I have only used a few.

The lens with the "problem"' is a Vivitar (Kiron) 24mm f2.0. I wanted to use this lens because of the wide f2.0 aperture which makes the viewfinder of the Pen FT much brighter. I also like the wider 35mm (equivalent) view of the 24mm as a normal lens. When I discovered that the meter was not responding and the viewfinder was not getting darker, I quickly uncovered the stuck pin.

All I had to do was file about 1mm off of the pin, and the problem is solved.

Other lenses with pins in the rear might have similar problems.

 

[Crysist]

Not a homemade adapter, but I confirmed that a Sigma 135mm f/1.8 DG HSM ART lens can be adapted to a Pen via the EOS-Pen F adapter. Focusing works. You have to preset the aperture by stopping it down on your EOS camera while you dismount the lens from it, so you're stuck with the same aperture after you mount it on the Pen, unless you carry an EOS body around with you.

This lens should be able to out-resolve almost any film so it's great for the small format. It's equivalent to just about 200mm when mounted to the Pen. You do end up holding the lens rather than the camera in use!

What would be really cool is if there was a way to supply an electric connection to the EOS lenses that would enable image stabilization. I don't think it would be very complicated to engineer - on a half-press, a signal gets sent to the lens to engage IS, when the half-press is disengaged, IS is off. It would need a button on the adapter along with a battery.

[images]

That's AWESOME lol. I'm kinda eager to see what photos you got! It isn't exclusively focus by wire, is it? And such an adapter that'd host many of the features electronics in the mount to allow IS, automatic aperture, etc would be the greatest thing!!

I learned a little bit of FreeCAD and I made a prototype for a Canon New FD lens to Olympus Pen F camera adapter. It will probably need a little adjustment, after I make a version 2 I'll publish the file here if there is interest so you can print your own.

Looks like I was just in time for the update, as I bought a very nice Pen FT about a week ago! Though I mainly have Nikon lenses. I'm not sure why manuals adapters don't keep the automatic aperture lever open, though. Nikon F lenses are like the inverse of the Pen F when unmounted, but it catches the lever in the camera to stay open for focusing. Couldn't the lever from the Pen F be coupled to any old manual lenses' stop down levers?

I figure any other crop sensor lenses might be a good choice too. I got a kit lens from a Nikon, and I imagine it or any one for a Canon crop would be pretty cool. I don't know how good the other non-normal lenses for the Pen F are, I heard they're quite good but some are flare prone, still most are at least a stop slower than what I'd prefer. Adapting lenses to it looked like it'd be fun!

Current silly ideas: make a super slim M-mount adapter. Rangefinder lenses would be a boon for adapting with their small size, and it'd be crazy to see one work on an SLR! The Pen F mirror, when up, is just a few mm deeper than the mount so there won't be a great amount of room. Or even sacrifice a lens by removing its mount, they're very similar flange distances! But I imagine the issue is the rangefinder coupling via the helicoid sticking inside might be an issue...

Another idea is to use C-mount or MFT glass which, despite losing infinity, could allow you to use some great, modern, and compact lenses!

The lens with the "problem"' is a Vivitar (Kiron) 24mm f2.0. I wanted to use this lens because of the wide f2.0 aperture which makes the viewfinder of the Pen FT much brighter. I also like the wider 35mm (equivalent) view of the 24mm as a normal lens. When I discovered that the meter was not responding and the viewfinder was not getting darker, I quickly uncovered the stuck pin.

Oh, I've been looking to find an alternate 35mm equivalent for it! How is that lens?