I do have a bit shaky hands sometimes but i shot some of the pictures at 500 shutterspeed using f8 or f11 so that should be fine too.
Checked the rangefinder patch allignment
Yeah, and the unsharpness doesn't look like motion blur.
Can you post a full frame?
If you shoot a scene with objects at various distances from the camera, does anything render sharply (although not the objects you focused on, I assume)? If so, do objects closer or further away from the focus point render sharply?
How did you do this exactly?
Also, what camera are we talking about exactly? I assume this is one of the Fuji 6x9 rangefinders; I'm not familiar with a "GI690". Or am I misreading GL690?
Have you checked that there are not inconsistencies in your scanning set-up?
I have also used the GL690 and had fine results.
Antaras, where this camera is coming from? Is this blurriness issue something new or not?
In principle, this is a good approach, however, it's sensitive to proper alignment of the strip of negative etc. you use in the film gate. 120 film is pretty wide and the film is kind of flexible, so I'd suggest doing this test with a more rigid kind of material. Any kind of transparent plastic or even glass that you can rough up to make a makeshift ground glass will do. Make sure the coarse/ground surface faces the lens!I did the rangefinder patch check with a piece of negative on the back with bulb mode and a loupe at 2 meter away and it was sharp image.
Maybe there's a useful suggestion in here somewhere: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/how-to-post-pictures-and-avoid-size-limit-problems.211668Iam trying to post full frame but its not uploading somehow.
Good to mention, but it's not the cause of the problem.Also good to mention.. i develop myself also.
Probably not, but test without the filter. Mind you, a filter would have to be very dirty and/or very very scratched to give this kind of result. Think of the old 'vaseline on a filter' trick to make a soft focus effect. A tiny scratch here and there or some dust on the filter won't do this. And a reasonably clear filter will also not affect sharpness by this degree - not by a long, long shot.Could it be the Skylight filter attached to it?
In principle, this is a good approach, however, it's sensitive to proper alignment of the strip of negative etc. you use in the film gate. 120 film is pretty wide and the film is kind of flexible, so I'd suggest doing this test with a more rigid kind of material. Any kind of transparent plastic or even glass that you can rough up to make a makeshift ground glass will do. Make sure the coarse/ground surface faces the lens!
If this test succeeds, it's hard to maintain that it's a focus problem. I'd still love to see those full frame samples to see what's up. They don't have to be full resolution; on resized images it's usually still fairly easy to see where the focus is.
Maybe there's a useful suggestion in here somewhere: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/how-to-post-pictures-and-avoid-size-limit-problems.211668
Good to mention, but it's not the cause of the problem.
Probably not, but test without the filter. Mind you, a filter would have to be very dirty and/or very very scratched to give this kind of result. Think of the old 'vaseline on a filter' trick to make a soft focus effect. A tiny scratch here and there or some dust on the filter won't do this. And a reasonably clear filter will also not affect sharpness by this degree - not by a long, long shot.
when i focus at 1 meter i get out of focus image to see.
But at 2 meters till infinity its all in focus at F3.5.
I'm not quite sure I understand what you're saying here. By '2 meters till infinity' do you mean that if you set the rangefinder to an object at 2 meters and you verify the image on the makeshift groundglass, it's sharp? And if you repeat the same for an object at infinity, you also get confirmation between rangefinder and groundglass image?
If that's the case, focus at 1 meter should also be perfect. If it's not, then this suggests a problem with your methodology most likely, and the findings for 2m - infinity are also not as perfect as you believe they are.
I'd be interested in seeing how a negative looks through a loupe....not a judgement based on a scan.
You've got a point there. I see no grain in the scan either. That's suspicious.
so could be the scan?
Could be, yes. Plenty of ways to find out. Take some negatives that you know are sharp and scan them in the same way. Scan these negatives and include the edge of the film; verify that the edge is sharp. Mind you, there can be problems with field flatness of the taking lens you using during 'scanning', so there's that - but still, this should get you closer.
What kind of film was this negative made on?
Scanning is part of the problem, but probably not all of it. Btw, the second scan you posted is also not so great, but that's a different problem. I'd focus on the camera for now.I just did a scan with my digitaliza holder and somehow its already better result.
I'm asking because of the grain. If you had used something like TMAX100, the grain might have been difficult to see on a not-so-great scan. The grain of FP4+ should have shown up clearly in your scan.
Scanning is part of the problem, but probably not all of it. Btw, the second scan you posted is also not so great, but that's a different problem. I'd focus on the camera for now.
PS: for comparison, this is a snippet of a scan I was just working on now:
View attachment 398950
This is a pretty mediocre flatbed scan at effectively 1200dpi but from a very fine-grained film (Kodak Vision3 50D). You can already see the grain appearing on this low-res, soft scan (with some USM applied). Your FP4+ negative should show much more and tighter grain than this on a decent scan.
I'm asking because of the grain. If you had used something like TMAX100, the grain might have been difficult to see on a not-so-great scan. The grain of FP4+ should have shown up clearly in your scan.
Scanning is part of the problem, but probably not all of it. Btw, the second scan you posted is also not so great, but that's a different problem. I'd focus on the camera for now.
I'd suggest some more accurate testing.
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