First SLR

[xkaes]

Getting something like a MAXXUM 5 with a 28-100mm zoom is an all-in-one system (built-in flash, motor drive, spot meter, etc.) -- much smaller, lighter, and less expensive than getting an old camera AND extra lenses and gear.

 

[Tombadil]

My first SLR

RICHO KR10 M Zoon SIGMA 35 - 80mm



Double exposure 2 s f 4.5 Ilford HP4 100


1993/ April

 

[138bb]

Ok, so here are a few options I’ve found

Minolta SRT101 (MC Rokkor PF 1,7/55mm): 80€, mint condition, reputable camera seller

Minolta SR7 (MC Rokkor PF 1,7/50mm): 50€, good condition, same seller as the SRT101

Fujica ST 705w (Fujinon 1,6/55mm): 69€, mint condition, reputable seller

Ricoh KR5 (50mm 1:2 Rikenon): 50€, mint condition, light seals changed, reputable seller

Fujica ST 605 (Fujinon 2,2/55mm + Tefnon macro): 60€, mint condition, seller has good reviews but none about cameras

Yashica FX-2 (Yashica 1:2/55mm): 50€, good condition, seller has good reviews but none about cameras

I’m specially interested in the Minolta SRT 101. Unfortunately, the most expensive one

SR7 has a good price but it doesn’t have hot shoe. I don’t know if I will be using flash though. I haven’t seen a lot of people using flash on these kind of cameras so I’m not sure.

I think I searched every camera you suggested. But I couldn’t find they within my budget or they seemed to be in bad condition. Some people suggested some Nikons and Minolta Maxxum but I’m more drawn to the old vintage look and that’s what I’m looking for at the moment. But I might consider them in the future.

Which one would you chose?

 

[xkaes]

Those are all good cameras and good prices, but getting any of them locks you into one camera system with one fixed focal length lens. If you ever want a different perspective (wide-angle, telephoto) you'll have to buy another lens -- of the same type as the lens you have. And if you ever want to use a flash, you'll have to buy that -- (the SR7 accepts a flash with an adapter.

If I was forced to choose one, I'd pick the SRT101.

But if I had a REAL choice, I would not buy any of these GREAT cameras. I'll get a newer camera with a zoom lens and a built-in flash -- at a lower price.

 

[Lucius]

Ok, so here are a few options I’ve found

Minolta SRT101 (MC Rokkor PF 1,7/55mm): 80€, mint condition, reputable camera seller

Minolta SR7 (MC Rokkor PF 1,7/50mm): 50€, good condition, same seller as the SRT101

Fujica ST 705w (Fujinon 1,6/55mm): 69€, mint condition, reputable seller

Ricoh KR5 (50mm 1:2 Rikenon): 50€, mint condition, light seals changed, reputable seller

Fujica ST 605 (Fujinon 2,2/55mm + Tefnon macro): 60€, mint condition, seller has good reviews but none about cameras

Yashica FX-2 (Yashica 1:2/55mm): 50€, good condition, seller has good reviews but none about cameras

I’m specially interested in the Minolta SRT 101. Unfortunately, the most expensive one

SR7 has a good price but it doesn’t have hot shoe. I don’t know if I will be using flash though. I haven’t seen a lot of people using flash on these kind of cameras so I’m not sure.

I think I searched every camera you suggested. But I couldn’t find they within my budget or they seemed to be in bad condition. Some people suggested some Nikons and Minolta Maxxum but I’m more drawn to the old vintage look and that’s what I’m looking for at the moment. But I might consider them in the future.

Which one would you chose?

You have here three groups of cameras. (1) The Minoltas. Probably the oldest and the heaviest of the bunch. The latter was a major deterrent to me, so I never used one. The SR7 not having a hot shoe might not be too much of a disadvantage, as you could always add a cold shoe. Before deciding on one, I would check out the prices for other Rokkor lenses -- in case you want to expand later (they may be high, I simply don't know). Others will be better placed to advise. (2) The Fujicas. Chronologically in between, and among the best options for the m42 mount. I'd go for the ST705: it has the highest top speed of 1/1500 (against the 1/700 of the ST605 and the 1/1000 of the rest), and the Fujinon 55mm f1.6 is a good and interesting lens which alone is often sold for this kind of price. (3) The Ricoh and the Yashica. These are the youngest models, with similar post-m42 bayonet mounts (K mount and C/Y mount respectively). I might avoid the Yashica as there aren't that many options if you decide to expand your lens collection later, while K mount lenses are plentiful. On the other hand, both will accept m42 lenses with a proper adapter. The Yashica also seems to require mercury batteries, no longer available (with modern batteries metering might be less accurate). The Ricoh has the low top speed of 1/500, which would put me off. In sum, I'd go for the Fujica ST705w, but I'm an m42 fan. Whichever you decide, make sure that the light meter is functional and accurate -- some sellers might describe the camera as working even if the meter is gone.

 

[KerrKid]

SRT-101. I have that same camera/lens combo. You'll love it!

Ask if the meter works. It would be nice if it did but shouldn't be a deal breaker if it doesn't. The camera probably hasn't been configured to use a modern battery so you'll need a cheap adapter (#9 rubber O-ring, I think) to make a modern battery fit the battery compartment properly.

 

[MattKing]

If those were my choices, I might choose the Ricoh, due to the K mount.

 

[removedacct2]

I think I searched every camera you suggested. But I couldn’t find they within my budget or they seemed to be in bad condition. Some people suggested some Nikons and Minolta Maxxum but I’m more drawn to the old vintage look and that’s what I’m looking for at the moment. But I might consider them in the future.

Which one would you chose?

in your list I chose the M42 body: Fujica.

I don't know what reliability with Milanuncios, but this one I mentioned earlier is a good option. It is in fact a Petri FT1000, one of the many usual 70s reflex, 1s-1/1000 CdS lightmeter. It comes with a normal lens, not sure what one, it seems a f2.8 maybe like a Domiplan in which case not really good, but you could ask, and a zoom 80-205. For 50€...
https://www.milanuncios.com/camaras...e-fotos-antigua-carena-objetivo-374447741.htm

I have two Minolta 7000 bodies and M42 adapters, I could send you one, you can use it in M or A mode with manual lenses. I may have an extra Helios-44 or Takumar 2.0- The 7000 is european name for Dynax 7000 or Maxxum 7000 in american parlance.

 

[KerrKid]

in your list I chose the M42 body: Fujica.

I don't know what reliability with Milanuncios, but this one I mentioned earlier is a good option. It is in fact a Petri FT1000, one of the many usual 70s reflex, 1s-1/1000 CdS lightmeter. It comes with a normal lens, not sure what one, it seems a f2.8 maybe like a Domiplan in which case not really good, but you could ask, and a zoom 80-205. For 50€...
https://www.milanuncios.com/camaras...e-fotos-antigua-carena-objetivo-374447741.htm

I have two Minolta 7000 bodies and M42 adapters, I could send you one, you can use it in M or A mode with manual lenses. I may have an extra Helios-44 or Takumar 2.0- The 7000 is european name for Dynax 7000 or Maxxum 7000 in american parlance.

That would be very generous of you and I think she would be thrilled to have that.

 

[oxcanary]

Don’t buy the Ricoh it’s slow speeds also stop at 1/8 second and don’t go lower than this

 

[Lucius]

Also, the Fujicas take modern batteries, unlike the Minoltas whose meters were originally calibrated for the 1.3v current of mercury batteries, and have a silicon light meter, which is supposed to be more accurate than the CdS one of the Minoltas. That's not a huge factor and more will depend on the actual condition of the specific meter, but still something to bear in mind.

 

[Hassasin]

Battery should. not be a deterrent as auto-adjusting adapters to take silver oxides are easily available and a one time investment.

Minolta SRT101 is a great camera. Frankly the SR7 is also great, but both are quite old. Ricoh will give you the K mount lens choices and KR5 is fine camera, but it does not feel as solid as either of the Minoltas. Fujicas are fine, 705 would be my choice, solid camera, but need to stick with Fuji 42mm lenses for open aperture metering.

 

[Martin Rickards]

There were (too) many brands of 35m SLRs not just the Nikon, Canon, Pentax and Minolta but also Olympus, Yashica, Fuji, Ricoh, Konica etc. Read up on them and have a good search

 

[waynecrider]

Any news on the choice?

I prefer to handle the body if I can before I buy. Too bad you couldn’t find a photo show. It will often speak volumes.
My first real new camera was a Spotmatic. I chose it over a new Srt101 that was kind of noisy.

 

[Autonerd]

I'm considering a Minolta as I said before, but I have doubts because of the lenses. Should I get one with M42 lenses?? I know I can use an adapter on the Minolta, but if I got a camera with M42 mount in the future, is it possible to use Minolta lenses with an adapter on a camera that uses M42?

Adapters aren't really A Thing in the film world -- you're better off using a camera's "native" lenses to ensure that everything works.

You mentioned going with a mechanical camera. To most filmies, that means a camera with no electronics whatsoever -- a mechanical (or "clockwork") mechanism. The problem with these cameras is that they will likely require some servicing, and that will blow your budget. Aside from the K1000, most manufacturers stopped making all-mechanical cameras by the early 1980s. Unless they've been in near-continuous use, chances are they will have some gummed-up lubrication, which means the shutter timing won't work properly. Also they tend to be more expensive because they are perceived as more valuable.

I know you want an all-manual camera -- I suggest a manual-focus, manual-wind camera with an electronic shutter. Most of these cameras are meant to be operated with full manual exposure control (focus and aperture control on the lens barrel, shutter dial on the camera body), but have an additional "A" mode on the shutter dial (which you can ignore). Advantages: 1) The shutter is less likely to go out of calibration (in my experience, if these cameras work, they work properly) and b) they are a lot cheaper than clockwork cameras.

This brings me back to my original recommendations (Ricoh KR-10 and XR-2s). I looked on eBay.es and found plenty well within your budget.

I think these cameras will give you the experience you are looking for, without the potential pitfalls of an older clockwork camera. Also, they are way better suited to the way you want to shoot than a Maxxum 5.

Aaron

 

[Autonerd]

Ok, so here are a few options I’ve found

Ricoh KR5 (50mm 1:2 Rikenon): 50€, mint condition, light seals changed, reputable seller

I'd recommend *against* this one. KR5 is a mechanical (clockwork) camera with a limited shutter-speed range. I've had trouble finding all-mechanical Ricohs that don't require service. 50 euro is WAY too much for one of these.

I’m specially interested in the Minolta SRT 101. Unfortunately, the most expensive one

Remember, you will probalby be shooting with this camera for ages. If you can find a way to spend a little more, get the camera you want!

Aaron

 

[xkaes]

Remember, you will probalby be shooting with this camera for ages.

One more reason to get a more modern camera -- as in "made in the last 25 years. PLUS they are more usable with more modern lenses -- IF you ever decide to get a extra lens. A camera LIKE the MAXXUM 5 gives you every thing you need -- auto everything, when you want it, and complete manual control, when you want it. With countless features that none of the older cameras have -- or cost more to add on.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

You mentioned going with a mechanical camera. To most filmies, that means a camera with no electronics whatsoever -- a mechanical (or "clockwork") mechanism. The problem with these cameras is that they will likely require some servicing, and that will blow your budget. Aside from the K1000, most manufacturers stopped making all-mechanical cameras by the early 1980s.

Er, Nikon FM & FM2 - 1977>1982>2001. I imagine all of them are still working - my 1983 model is, with no servicing. 'Course they don't sell cheap.

 

[Autonerd]

Er, Nikon FM & FM2 - 1977>1982>2001. I imagine all of them are still working - my 1983 model is, with no servicing. 'Course they don't sell cheap.

Ah, FM2, of course! That was a big omission on my part. Thanks.

Aaron

 

[138bb]

SRT-101. I have that same camera/lens combo. You'll love it!

Ask if the meter works. It would be nice if it did but shouldn't be a deal breaker if it doesn't. The camera probably hasn't been configured to use a modern battery so you'll need a cheap adapter (#9 rubber O-ring, I think) to make a modern battery fit the battery compartment properly.

That’s my favorite for sure! If it doesn’t sell before I save enough money I think I will go for it.

in your list I chose the M42 body: Fujica.

I don't know what reliability with Milanuncios, but this one I mentioned earlier is a good option. It is in fact a Petri FT1000, one of the many usual 70s reflex, 1s-1/1000 CdS lightmeter. It comes with a normal lens, not sure what one, it seems a f2.8 maybe like a Domiplan in which case not really good, but you could ask, and a zoom 80-205. For 50€...
https://www.milanuncios.com/camaras...e-fotos-antigua-carena-objetivo-374447741.htm

I have two Minolta 7000 bodies and M42 adapters, I could send you one, you can use it in M or A mode with manual lenses. I may have an extra Helios-44 or Takumar 2.0- The 7000 is european name for Dynax 7000 or Maxxum 7000 in american parlance.

The Fujica one seems interesting too. Specially because it uses M42. I think its my second favorite after the SRT 101.

And thank you so much for your offer! It’s really kind of you. But as I said before, if I spend now in shipping costs to be able to try a camera, I don’t think I will be able to afford one of my own soon. I’m selling some stuff I don’t use in order to get money, but it’s kind of slow because I don’t get paid until the customer receives the item and next week we have holidays in Spain so I don’t think I’ll can buy one until at least 2 weeks

Don’t buy the Ricoh it’s slow speeds also stop at 1/8 second and don’t go lower than this

Good to know that! It’s already sold though. I’ll take it out of my list.

Remember, you will probalby be shooting with this camera for ages. If you can find a way to spend a little more, get the camera you want!

Aaron

I don’t plan to buy another camera anytime soon so I hope I can buy the one I want

Thanks again for your help and thoughts

 

[138bb]

Hi guys! Update. This morning, I was able to find a cheap Fujica ST 705 on eBay. About 40€ with lense and shipping included. And it seems to be in mint condition.

Can't wait to test it when it arrives! Any recommendation on what to check?

I finally decided to get a Fujica because M42 lenses are cheaper here. I don't think I'll buy one anytime soon but it's nice to have the chance. I was hoping to get the Minolta SRT 101, but lenses are more expensive. So maybe in the future!

 

[Lucius]

Can't wait to test it when it arrives! Any recommendation on what to check?

Congratulations, this should be an excellent camera!

The first thing to check is the shutter. Open the back cover and try the shutter at different speeds pointing at a light source or, better, a brightly lit wall. First, you need to check if the times seem about right -- you can tell pretty accurately about the slower ones, while for the rest you can just check if, say, 1/1000 is faster than 1/500. Second, you need to check if the second curtain doesn't overtake the first one at the fastest speeds, which prevents the edge of the frame from exposing properly. If you shoot against a bright subject, you will notice that the left edge remains dark. If it's just the top speed, you might be willing to live with that, but you could ask for a partial refund.

The second thing is the light meter. You will need two SR44 batteries (I think -- make sure to double check). Ideally there shouldn't be any corrosion in the battery compartment, though it doesn't always cause trouble. Put the batteries in and see if the needle moves in the viewfinder as you half-press the shutter release button, esp. as you point at differently lit subjects (try the highest ISO setting, the widest aperture and a slow speed, with a bright subject, first). If you are unable to make the needle move with any aperture/shutter settings, take out the batteries and try to wipe the contacts with a drop of vinegar on a cotton bud -- this often helps. If it doesn't, the light meter is probably busted. If the needle moves, you need to check whether the meter is accurate. The easiest way is by downloading a free lightmeter app and checking against it. For instance, I have a spot in my flat that, with the lighting on, requires ISO 200, f2.8 and 1/60 (according to the app) -- that's where I check all my new cameras. Sometimes the meter may be off by one or two stops: say, it will indicate good exposure at ISO 400 instead of 200 -- usually, it's not a problem, you just need to figure this out and remember that if you use a 200 film, to set 400 instead, or 200 for a 100 film, and so on. Again, this kind of compensation usually works, but it is always good to check the meter against the lightmeter app in different light conditions -- it may be inconsistent, though this is rare. If the meter doesn't work, you could just decide to use the lightmeter app, but be sure to get a partial refund, at least.

The third thing is the lens -- make sure it's mechanically and optically sound. Set the aperture at f16 and press the pin at the mount: the aperture should instantly close, and as instantly open when you let the pin go; it's bad if it's sticky. Shine a light through the lens: you will see a lot of tiny dust particles, which is normal, but if there's fungus or haze, or major scratches, that's trouble.

That's about it. It's also likely that the foam used as light seals and to dampen the mirror will have crumbled -- make sure to carefully clear out as many of the pieces as possible. Ideally you may want to replace the light seals, but I never do (but I also usually keep the camera in its case when shooting, which may add protection against light leaks).

There are of course other things to go wrong, but these are the major concerns. It would be a good idea to try it out with a film -- perhaps a short one with 24 or 12 exposures -- as soon as possible, as this could reveal problems otherwise undetectable. Make sure also to look at the user manual -- there must be a pdf on the internet.

 

[Lucius]

I finally decided to get a Fujica because M42 lenses are cheaper here. I don't think I'll buy one anytime soon but it's nice to have the chance. I was hoping to get the Minolta SRT 101, but lenses are more expensive. So maybe in the future!

The Fujinon 55mm f1.8 is a good lens, especially if it says 'EBC' (= Electron-Beam-Coating). If you decide to look for extra lenses, try to get Fujinon lenses of the same generation -- they support open-aperture metering. Fujinon lenses aren't the most common, but it should be possible to find a 35mm f3.5 and a 135mm f3.5 for not a lot of money. Or you can use ordinary m42 lenses, but you will need to stop them down for metering.

 

[grain elevator]

Congrats! A little patience has once again paid off. Seems like a great camera, hopefully it will be fully working!

 

[Hassasin]

This is a very nice camera, but sticking to Fujinon EBC lenses is quite important. With them you will get them locked in when mounted and that ensures they are mounted fully as required, so aperture will close properly, and won't unscrew unless release lock is pressed in. Other screw mount lenses will not give you that security.