First SLR

[138bb]

Great find if it works! I would say it needs new light seals at least. Do you have a battery to test the meter? Not that you have to use the camera's meter, but it's nice. I don't put zooms on my SRT's so I'd go with the Vivitar 50, but that's just me.

I used alcohol or lens cleaner to clean the mirror. There may be other options.

I ordered some batteries to test it! I think I’ll receive them tomorrow. Also, need to buy some foam to replace the light seals. I watch some videos about how to do it. Hope I’m able to do it it doesn’t seem too difficult but I’ll let you know how it goes!

About the lens, I thought that the 20-70mm has more versatility? But as I haven’t used any lenses before I’m a bit lost. I watched some videos about it to understand better how they work, but I won’t know what I’ll prefer until I try some. I thought about going with the Tamron because the other camera I bought come with a 50mm lens. So this way I’ll be able to try both kinds of lenses. But we still don’t know if the Fujica works and the lense is not compatible with the Minolta without an adapter!

 

[138bb]

Before you clean it you need to remove the remnants of the old foam bumpers and replace with new ones. That junk on the mirror is from the disintegrating foams in the camera.
Once you have replaced the foams, and blown out the camera to remove any remaining crud, then clean the mirror.
I use isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs.

Thank you! I was watching this video to see how it’s done

 

[Sirius Glass]

Hi guys! There’s been no updates on tracking since monday

But, while I wait, I managed to get another camera. I found this Minolta SRT Super on ebay for just 5€. And of course, I had to buy it.

It’s untested and ir arrived today. Everything seems to work. However, it needs a cleanup. I attached some pictures.

Any recommendations about what to use to clean it? Specially, the mirror.

View attachment 336906 View attachment 336907 View attachment 336908

View attachment 336910

Now I need to finde a lense! I found some cheap ones:
- Tamron 28-70mm f/3,5-4,5 cf macro for only 15€
- Sunaction 28-70mm, f/3,5-4,8 for 20€
- Vivitar 50mm f/1,7 for 25€

Tamron is the cheapest option, so I probably get that one. Mostly, because I don’t know if the camera really works and don’t know how the pics will turn out.

What do you think?

In 1966 I bought my first used SR-7 and later moved through the SRT 101, SRT 201, SRT 301, ... X700.

 

[KerrKid]

I ordered some batteries to test it! I think I’ll receive them tomorrow. Also, need to buy some foam to replace the light seals. I watch some videos about how to do it. Hope I’m able to do it it doesn’t seem too difficult but I’ll let you know how it goes!

About the lens, I thought that the 20-70mm has more versatility? But as I haven’t used any lenses before I’m a bit lost. I watched some videos about it to understand better how they work, but I won’t know what I’ll prefer until I try some. I thought about going with the Tamron because the other camera I bought come with a 50mm lens. So this way I’ll be able to try both kinds of lenses. But we still don’t know if the Fujica works and the lense is not compatible with the Minolta without an adapter!

The prep is important in replacing light seals. Like the prep in painting. I'm very anal about prep so I get every bit of the old seals and adhesive out. I also cut my own seals out of a foam sheet I get at the local craft store. But, I'm not saying that's the best route for you for the first time. I got seals from US Camera for the first ones and just found out I could do a better job cutting them myself.

Batteries....do some research on that. I don't know what you bought, but 675 hearing aid batteries with a #9 rubber o-ring adapter or a metal adapter can save money over Weincells. (I got my SRT's modified by John Titterington to use modern batteries so I don't have to fuss with adapters.)

Yes, the 20-70mm lens will give you more versatility and since you have a 50mm coming on the other camera, it makes sense.

If you're artistic, you can get some Apoxie Sculpt, JB Weld, Metal Mend, etc. and mold a piece for your winder. Glue it in place with some strong adhesive. The upside to this is you can make it the shape you want so it doesn't stick out like the one that comes with the camera.

 

[Lucius]

About the lens, I thought that the 20-70mm has more versatility?

People shooting vintage SLRs tend to prefer 'prime' lenses (i.e. lenses with a fixed focal length) over zooms, because they usually have better optical quality, because they have a larger maximum aperture (which means you need less light and can get a shallower depth of field), because they are mechanically simpler (and hence more reliable) and because they are lighter. Zooms can of course be handy, but primes are also a better way to learn specific focal lengths.

 

[Les Sarile]

I ordered some batteries to test it! I think I’ll receive them tomorrow. Also, need to buy some foam to replace the light seals. I watch some videos about how to do it. Hope I’m able to do it it doesn’t seem too difficult but I’ll let you know how it goes!

About the lens, I thought that the 20-70mm has more versatility? But as I haven’t used any lenses before I’m a bit lost. I watched some videos about it to understand better how they work, but I won’t know what I’ll prefer until I try some. I thought about going with the Tamron because the other camera I bought come with a 50mm lens. So this way I’ll be able to try both kinds of lenses. But we still don’t know if the Fujica works and the lense is not compatible with the Minolta without an adapter!

Just to be sure, the battery required is 1.35v which is not the more commonly available 1.55 variety.

 

[Lucius]

Also, need to buy some foam to replace the light seals. I watch some videos about how to do it. Hope I’m able to do it it doesn’t seem too difficult but I’ll let you know how it goes!

Not to suggest you shouldn't replace the seals, but in a dozen or so vintage cameras I tried over the last year, I never replaced the seals and never got any light leaks. But you should definitely try cleaning out as many loose bits of the old foam as possible, as they can spoil the mechanism.

 

[Sirius Glass]

People shooting vintage SLRs tend to prefer 'prime' lenses (i.e. lenses with a fixed focal length) over zooms, because they usually have better optical quality, because they have a larger maximum aperture (which means you need less light and can get a shallower depth of field), because they are mechanically simpler (and hence more reliable) and because they are lighter. Zooms can of course be handy, but primes are also a better way to learn specific focal lengths.

Anyone would be hard pressed to look at a photograph or group of photographs and pick out the difference between prime lenses and modern zoom lenses today. Forty years ago yes, but not with today's lenses.

 

[Lucius]

Anyone would be hard pressed to look at a photograph or group of photographs and pick out the difference between prime lenses and modern zoom lenses today. Forty years ago yes, but not with today's lenses.

That may well be true, but the OP is choosing between a vintage prime and a vintage zoom.

 

[xkaes]

The SRT SUPER is just another name for the SRT102 & SRT303 -- they were just sold in different locations. And like the SRT102 & SRT303, the SRT SUPER came in two versions. They were the top-of-the-line manual camera at that time from Minolta. Assuming it works, you got a great deal. You can read about them here:

http://www.subclub.org/minman/srt102.htm

 

[138bb]

People shooting vintage SLRs tend to prefer 'prime' lenses (i.e. lenses with a fixed focal length) over zooms, because they usually have better optical quality, because they have a larger maximum aperture (which means you need less light and can get a shallower depth of field), because they are mechanically simpler (and hence more reliable) and because they are lighter. Zooms can of course be handy, but primes are also a better way to learn specific focal lengths.

I didn’t know that prime lenses worked better with low light. Now I don’t know which one to get. I see that almost everyone who shoots on vintage cameras uses prime lenses… that might be the reason.

The SRT SUPER is just another name for the SRT102 & SRT303 -- they were just sold in different locations. And like the SRT102 & SRT303, the SRT SUPER came in two versions. They were the top-of-the-line manual camera at that time from Minolta. Assuming it works, you got a great deal. You can read about them here:

http://www.subclub.org/minman/srt102.htm

Yes! I know. That’s why I bid up in this one. When searching for Minoltas I never found this model and I did some research.

The seller had other models like the SRT101 that I wanted. But this one was such a deal because I was the only bidder and 5€ was the initial price. The other ones had more people interested so they sold for a bit more. Still cheap though because all of them were untested.

Thank you all again for your help! I’m going to get some foam to replace light seals. And I’m still thinking about which lens should I get. I’ll let you know.

About the Fujica, still no updates on tracking since Monday.

 

[Lucius]

I didn’t know that prime lenses worked better with low light. Now I don’t know which one to get. I see that almost everyone who shoots on vintage cameras uses prime lenses… that might be the reason.

Yes, at f1.7 a lens lets in two times (or rather x2.5) more light than at f3.5, so it gives you that more flexibility for shooting in lower light or using a slower film. This is a significant factor, but image quality is significant too -- the lens is the most important piece of photographic equipment, as it is the lens rather than anything else that actually forms the image.

If you do decide to go for a zoom, I'd definitely stay away from the Sunactinon, the Tamron might turn out to be decent.

 

[xkaes]

Most lenses, whether fixed/prime or zoom achieve their highest resolution when stopped down about two f-stops. That doesn't mean you always want to shoot at that f-stop. Sometimes you want more depth of field, and sometimes less -- and depending on how large a print you plan on making, the difference in resolution might not be noticeable. A striking subject or composition is often more important than great resolution.

 

[KerrKid]

A striking subject or composition is often more important than great resolution.

Amen to that. I have photos that are priceless to me that are out of focus or grossly over or underexposed.

As for lenses....I have used the Minolta 58mm f1.4 exclusively on my camera since I bought it back in 1973. It's a big piece of glass. Looking through the viewfinder with this lens on the camera is a pleasure. They are not expensive, either. $30-$40 on eBay. The 55mm f1.7 is another nice lens that I have and it's very inexpensive, too.

 

[xkaes]

There were TWO versions of the 58mm f1.4. They are really the same lens, but only the second model has meter-coupling.

http://www.subclub.org/minman/normal.htm

 

[KerrKid]

There were TWO versions of the 58mm f1.4. They are really the same lens, but only the second model has meter-coupling.

http://www.subclub.org/minman/normal.htm

Good to know. Mine is the second model, the MC version.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I especially liked the Minolta Rokkor f/2.8 21mm lens. Walking around with it felt like having an automobile headlight on ones chest.

 

[KerrKid]

I especially liked the Minolta Rokkor f/2.8 21mm lens. Walking around with it felt like having an automobile headlight on ones chest.

Not to mention it's way out of the OP's price range. Nice lens, though.

 

[138bb]

I found a Minolta 28-70mm MD zoom for abour 20€. I’m talking with the seller but I think I’m going to buy that one. I search for prime lenses but they are a bit more expensive. Not really knowing if the camera will work fine, I prefer the cheapest option I can get haha

 

[xkaes]

That "Minolta" 28-70mm is a quality shooter, was made by Cosina, and sold under other names too (Vivitar?). It's probably less expensive without the Minolta label -- but $20 is a great price if it's in good shape!

MINOLTA WIDE-TO-TELE ZOOM LENSES

 

[138bb]

I finally received the Fujica! But bad news, it doesn’t work the shutter is stuck and the timer don’t go all the way.

The light meter works though. And the camera and the lens seem in good condition. I was hoping the camera will work too…

 

[138bb]

Here’s a video



And some pictures

 

[KerrKid]

If it was mine, I'd remove the bottom of the camera and carefully poke around with a toothpick or something to find whatever little part is keeping the shutter from firing. I wouldn't force anything. Could be it just needs lube. Is there a film rewind button on the bottom of the camera that is depressed and not sticking out? Those have gotten stuck in the depressed position on mine. I've done the above to release them. Sometimes, juts some firm taps on the film takeup reel inside the body releases that button. That could be related to the shutter not firing. Of course, this is a WAG (wild-ass guess).

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

In addition to Mr. Kid's suggestions, above -

If the self timer doesn't unwind all the way then on most cameras this will keep the shutter from firing.

It is normal for self-timers to gum-up over the years and either run slowly, run erratically or not run at all. Sometimes nudging the self timer lever will help the mechanism along. Sometimes not, it all depends on the design of the camera.

If, as suggested, you can find the link between the self timer and the firing mechanism then it may unjam the camera. However, there is the chance the camera will lock again after an exposure and will have to have another 'toothpick' reset. Here's hoping this isn't the case.

On some cameras the self timer is a standalone mechanism that can be accessed by removing the self-timer lever and peeling back the leatherette. There will be a few screws around the self timer, and after these are removed the self timer will lift out. A good flush with cigarette lighter fluid or the solvent of your choice will usually get the timer working again. In my case, after I clean them off and get them running again, I do not oil them and instead let them run dry; I use a self timer so infrequently that it isn't going to wear out if it isn't oiled.

 

[xkaes]

Don't waste your time screwing around with the guts of the camera. If you accomplish anything, it will probably make matters worse.

Either return the dud camera, get a refund, or sell it for what it's worth -- next to nothing. You can probably get some $$ for the lens -- or since it's a screw-mount, you could buy an adapter for your Minolta, but I would not advise that since the aperture will not connect with the camera.