Rudeofus: he uses Fuji CN16 chemistry - I don't think he will get good results mixing the process in this situation...
Thanks to Cinestill et al. a sizeable part of this world develops ECN-2 materials in C-41 chemistry, and most seem to be more or less happy with the results. And no, he does not HAVE TO use the same bleach times as C-41, that's a process, which runs to completion, and different materials may well complete in different time frames. BTW the ECN-2 process uses a bleach very similar to C-41 bleach, and the ECN-2 process does bleach for 3:00.
Rudeofus: he uses Fuji CN16 chemistry - I don't think he will get good results mixing the process in this situation...
It appears to me, that the dark sections in these scans show much less reddish glow than in your first test run. Is this correct?
Rudeofus: he uses Fuji CN16 chemistry - I don't think he will get good results mixing the process in this situation...
Reddish glow? Both series exhibit massive crossover, magenta shadows with cyan highlights.
I am aware of that, and we are both aware, that CN-16 is Fuji's name for C-41. Yes, that's "the wrong process", but a sizable number of ECN-2 shooters use that process and seem to be happy with the results.
Reddish glow? Both series exhibit massive crossover, magenta shadows with cyan highlights.
We have unknown process (no details how the processing is done), no visual representation of negative, no information about the scanning process, no information about the necessary digital manipulation part of inverting the scan...
Sure, C-41 is not the right process for ECN-2 film, but that problem is WAAAAY down the list...
As far as I understand it uses C-41 chemistry in the process steps for ECN-2. This is no longer a question of cross processing, but of misprocessing with the available chemistry...
His first set was processed at 38ºC. If you compare it to the results at 41ºC you'd have to agree that 41ºC is MUCH better.
But, we all know that no amount of temperature drift from 38ºC can explain neon green shadows of the OP scans, so my bet is that the problem has deep roots in the digital domain, too. OP clearly does not believe that he needs to show as good as possible visual representation of the negative, so lets keep up the pointless (and baseless) guessing...
Those are chemical i used to process EC-2.
as i told before .. at least 38 degrees (with digital thermometer i checked the 3 bottles 40-41 degrees).
timing for develop 3'15" : 1'15" : 2'30"
Process it at 20ºC or 50ºC if you want, for a minute or an hour, the base won't look pure magenta.
Without agitation, magenta is a logical result.
Without agitation, magenta is a logical result.
It appears to me, that the dark sections in these scans show much less reddish glow than in your first test run. Is this correct?
scientifically and theoretically what happen if more than 38 degree .. ?
Then your answer is probably that this developer somehow performs reasonably well at a surprisingly low pH. Which formula do you use exactly?
Btw, the 50D strip with the DIY developer at pH9.2 looks quite normal to me. All the others are pretty far off in terms of orange mask. It's evidently way too magenta and too dense in the high pH strips. The 250D and 500T lack seriously in magenta in both your low pH DIY developer and the Bellini kit. The 250D I've been using looks just like the 50D in terms of base color. Is your film very much expired or something?
Given the differences between the 50D and the other films in your comparisons, there must be something going in here that isn't quite right. Not sure if it's just the developer.
So you are saying that the base for all three should have more magenta in it?
For the Bellini kit, I'd expect so, yes, with the 50D showing the least deviation. With your DIY developer at pH9.2 the 50D looks just about right to my eye. The pH10 adjusted ones look way out of spec. I don't doubt that the colors can be salvaged quite well with scanning, so in that sense, the whole situation might be acceptable anyway.
Yes, I see the green area too. Is it possible to photograph this particular negative in decent resolution? So without conversion to positive and color adjustments etc.
Upon visual inspection of the negative, do you see anything out of the ordinary in the shadow areas? You might have to hold the film in various angles to the light in order to see deviations of surface etc.
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