Correct, the display I'm using can show 8bit greyscale which is plenty for me in most cases, so I just expose a single frame for a fixed time. I've included functionality to increase dynamic range with multiple exposures but have never used it.
I see...
I tried single exposures with my mobile app first but found out that I had little control over the contrast curve. I made a calibrator that allows me to adjust each new material and expose the image using several 1-bit frames in a sequence with the correct timing for each tone. I now am trying to port this to the PC.
Coincidentally I have got an Agfa CRT film recorder (4k) this week, and I see that it can be a good machine to use for this new screen instead of using my Durst Laborator. The Agfa recorder can do color, so it has the disk with the filters and motor, as well as other mechanical and electrical parts that can be kept and I can have use for.
I think my 8k screen has just arrived the country and I should get it next week finally.
Hi everyone! Like everyone else here, I've stumbled upon this idea and I'm very impressed to see all the work y'all have put into this. I want to build a set up myself!
I've reached out to Sumaopai on AliExpress and was informed that current tariffs have made the LCD + driver boards either too expensive (he says 254% increase) or unavailable for purchase. He told me to check back in June to see if the US and China can settle a trade agreement. He also told me there is no "universal" driver boards because each LCD factory mates panels to boards, so you can't swap plug and play.
What did y'all pay for your LCD's + drivers?
Right now, my price (if allowed to buy) would be $230 for 7.1 inch 10k LCD with driver board.
I initially had the idea of simply using a resin printer, skipping the need for an enlarger. It handles all the light source needs, and would only need the addition of another fresnel lens (as converging lens) and a large format lens (I've bought a 180mm Schneider Componon). However, it would seem it's too good to be true because the main board for the resin printer only accepts a USB input, and from that is expecting a .CTB file which is an encrypted file that resin printers use for all their operations. I was hoping I could just manually "insert" the image I wanted to into the .CTB but alas have not been able to figure out a way to achieve this.
Nonetheless, I would be greatful if someone could help me put together a shopping list of parts needed to build a system of my own. So far I've put together that I need:
1) Mono LCD (7.1" 10k)
2) Corresponding driver board
3) Raspberry pi 4
4) Also another computer?
5) Enlarger
My use case is slightly different, and simpler than y'all's: I don't need shades of grey. My images are dithered, so I need maximum contrast. I'm also familiar with Image Magick, so stretching (or squeezing?) the image to fit on the LCD should be straightforward. The last unusual requirement is that I'm aiming for absolute sharpness. That is, I actually *want* to see each and every individual pixel on my print (because the dithering is very precise).
Resin printer in question is an Anycubuc Photon Mono 4 Ultra. Chosen because it has the smallest pixels of any resin printer available, and they are square. 17um*17um. "9k" mono LCD at 7 inches (9024x5120). All the other printers have higher "K" but I noticed that the pixel density height is the same or less, but the width is increased and pixels are rectangular which increases the pixel count. For my use, I need maximum density of smallest pixels.
Even if unable to help, I still want to say thank you to every single person who posted here, it's incredible what y'all have done here, makes me want to get back in a darkroom!
You are planning to gut a film recorder - a PCR? I recall only the Alto had the attachment for 8x10 film which you could put paper in. Otherwise it would be more work than using your enlarger to jig something up especially for larger stuff.
Create a print-ready file through the Anycubic slicer (with as few layers as possible) then open that in UVTools to modify and inject your own bitmaps.
GitHub - sn4k3/UVtools: MSLA/DLP, file analysis, calibration, repair, conversion and manipulation
MSLA/DLP, file analysis, calibration, repair, conversion and manipulation - sn4k3/UVtoolsgithub.com
I have a 10.1" 8k screen and the driver board has two leds that are on and steady when it is working. I posted my config in #286 in this thread. When I was getting my setting right I think I had an image of some sort most of the time, but also nothing at all sometimes. My cheap pc came with windows 10 so I am using that. I remember the first power cable I used was usbc to usbc, and it didnt work. I tried powerin from a regular usb plug at the back of the pc and that worked.Hey I've asked Sumopai but while I wait for there response I thought I might as well ask here too. I've just got around to hooking up my 10.1" 8k LCD screen + HDMI adapter from them to a raspberry pi 4 running the stock Pi OS and I'm just getting a blank screen, also there's an LED on the HDMI board that is just blinking constantly, and I'm not sure if that's normal or an indication of an error?
I tried adding the config for this screen shared earlier in this thread to the config.txt file on the SD card but no luck. Does anybody have a config.txt file that they have working on a raspberry pi 4 with this screen?
When Sumopai shipped the screen to me they also sent me a picture of it working with my name drawn on it, so I'm sure it would work if I could get the config correct, but whatever I'm doing right now clearly isn't working.
I have a 10.1" 8k screen and the driver board has two leds that are on and steady when it is working. I posted my config in #286 in this thread. When I was getting my setting right I think I had an image of some sort most of the time, but also nothing at all sometimes. My cheap pc came with windows 10 so I am using that. I remember the first power cable I used was usbc to usbc, and it didnt work. I tried powerin from a regular usb plug at the back of the pc and that worked.
I hate futzing with config settings. best of luck getting things working
Thanks, yeah the issue is that I'm trying to drive the LCD screen with a Raspberry Pi 4 and it's being more obtuse about settings. I didn't have any of these issues with the 13.7" LCD I've been using for contact printing, and I think the difference there is that the company I bought that one from (not Sumopai) programmed the HDMI converter with the correct information about the display, and so the computer just auto-detects the correct settings. It seems that Sumopai has just loaded garbage generic settings onto their HDMI converter and so the Raspberry Pi is unable to automatically configure the display correctly, and also I don't know what the correct config is so I can't force it to use the right values either.
Your name on the screen is a fraud protection thing that is good for both you and the seller. I haven't taken the films off of mine yet, I just removed the name with some alcohol and a soft cloth. All my calibration so far is with the screens on, and the results are fine, so I'm leaving them. I may find I'll need better contrast with 1 bit black and white dithered pixels for photogravure plates.Same problem here. With the Sumaopai config.txt for this screen on a rpi4, when starting up the screen shows a narrow white band first and then a 'squeezed' raspberry pi splash screen and after some time the screen blacks out. Any suggestions? I also tried adding video=HDMI-A-1:2560x4320@23 to cmdline.txt. The 223 or @23D which I also tested for the framerate that should be 23Hz. Is that correct?
My name on the protective sheet on the screen is written there by Sumaopai and comes with video of the screen in working condition sent at the moment of shipping.
Your name on the screen is a fraud protection thing that is good for both you and the seller. I haven't taken the films off of mine yet, I just removed the name with some alcohol and a soft cloth. All my calibration so far is with the screens on, and the results are fine, so I'm leaving them. I may find I'll need better contrast with 1 bit black and white dithered pixels for photogravure plates.
First step is to show you have good power. I think USB-C has some negotiation before the host decides to put 5v down some line or other, and the driver card might not do that negotiation, which is why the USB-C port on my graphics card didn't work. I don't remember if I got no LEDs or just one or the flashing thing like Andrew. Do you get two steady LEDs, and they flash when you lose the image, or just two steady leds? I think you are ahead of Andrew.
The next step is to find a good config. It's a bit more complicated than resolution and frame rate. You're going to have to learn about front porch, back porch, horizontal sync, vertical sync etc. from flying electron beam days If you have a bad config, you'll have pixels in the fly-back portion or the image in the wrong place etc. I suspect you have a good config.
A squashed splash is 'by design'. this is a mono screen, and the r, g and b parts of a regular color screen each contribute one grey pixel. the Pi is treating the screen as color, which is normal. You have to make an image that puts data in the r,g and b parts (explained elsewhere in this thread)
I wonder if you are losing your image when the screensaver blanks the screen. That will save you from image burn-in problems (which are real for these screens) Perhaps try configure a longer screen saver time. If that's the case you have a good config.
I have a second monitor in my setup that I use to control things, and I have made the cursor huge in the Windows accesability settings, but the mono screen is still too awkward to use to drive the display program @avandesande made.
I remember I had 3 frame rates that worked for my card. you could try one-up and one-down
Someone else in this thread found a program that programs the auto-detect settings, which you could try. I think the driver card is not sophisticated, probably just a 5v line with a usbc shaped plug and no pre-programmed config. I suspect Sumaopai is just Peter Su, who is super helpful with what he knows, but isn't a deep electronics expert. The settings posted by others work for them, but I had to tweak them for my setup. I remember I initially found a config that was steady but was a few pixels short of full resolution. I think you need to get steady leds before you mess with configs but I'm not an expert or even experienced with a PiThanks, yeah the issue is that I'm trying to drive the LCD screen with a Raspberry Pi 4 and it's being more obtuse about settings. I didn't have any of these issues with the 13.7" LCD I've been using for contact printing, and I think the difference there is that the company I bought that one from (not Sumopai) programmed the HDMI converter with the correct information about the display, and so the computer just auto-detects the correct settings. It seems that Sumopai has just loaded garbage generic settings onto their HDMI converter and so the Raspberry Pi is unable to automatically configure the display correctly, and also I don't know what the correct config is so I can't force it to use the right values either.
also there's an LED on the HDMI board that is just blinking constantly, and I'm not sure if that's normal or an indication of an error?
I think USB-C has some negotiation before the host decides to put 5v down some line or other
Someone else in this thread found a program that programs the auto-detect settings, which you could try. I think the driver card is not sophisticated, probably just a 5v line with a usbc shaped plug and no pre-programmed config. I suspect Sumaopai is just Peter Su, who is super helpful with what he knows, but isn't a deep electronics expert. The settings posted by others work for them, but I had to tweak them for my setup. I remember I initially found a config that was steady but was a few pixels short of full resolution. I think you need to get steady leds before you mess with configs but I'm not an expert or even experienced with a Pi
Peter sent me a OS image for raspberry pi for the 16k screen. I wouldn't be surprised if he can send one to you for the 8k.
Only because I only tried Windows10 and don't have a Pi 4. I think a bunch of people have things working with a Pi. I posted the settings that worked for me in post #286 in this thread. The numbers in the screenshot translate to values in the config file. I chose hardware and configurations that let me copy know working things as much as possible, but I don't see anything fundamentally wrong with your setup.Am I right that you only had succes with this screen using a windows computer?
I have this configuration. Will try in a bit.If anybody in this thread has the 10.1" 8k screen working on a windows PC with an Nvidia graphics card, could you please use the Nvidia control panel program to save your EDID file and then share it here? There are instructions about how to do this here:
Did you contact him via DM on this forum, or on Aliexpress (assuming he is Sumopai)?
Yeah ok I've been talking to him but it hasn't really helped yet. He did send me a link to a Pi image for the screen but I don't believe it included a desktop GUI as I think it was specifically for use in a 3D printer which isn't what I'm looking for.He's easy to contact on Aliexpress chat. The translation software works really well.
[I realised that the edid data I posted in this message is probably useless. I never to my knowledge wrote EDID info to my card, I just made the custom resolution I posted earlier. the initial display I got when I first brought it up was either not working at all or not syncing or shifted over into the flyback portion. I forget which. I was afraid of the EDID path]I have this configuration. Will try in a bit.
Someone posted their config.txt here: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/diy-31-megapixel-enlarger.197305/post-2751103 I think I found how to interpret the hdmi_timings line (didn't save where)
Well I managed to get the screen working properly on my desktop PC, I've attached the HDMI settings that worked for me and an EDID file I generated with them (which are quite different to what other people have posted in this thread, so I'm not sure why those didn't work for me and these ones did). Unfortunately I still haven't managed to get the pi to work even with the EDID file, and even more unfortunately I've managed to brick my laptop in the process by mangling the display drivers to the point that the LCD refuses to show anything and so I can't get into it.
Ugh. Being a pioneer costs time and money. Did you write edid info to the wrong display? You could perhaps attach another monitor or log in blind and run a repair ( assuming you figure it out ) or enable ssh or something.
I wonder if windows still has the C$ smb shares enabled by default. you could copy in diagnostic programs
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