DIY 31 Megapixel Enlarger

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Glauber

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Correct, the display I'm using can show 8bit greyscale which is plenty for me in most cases, so I just expose a single frame for a fixed time. I've included functionality to increase dynamic range with multiple exposures but have never used it.

I see...
I tried single exposures with my mobile app first but found out that I had little control over the contrast curve. I made a calibrator that allows me to adjust each new material and expose the image using several 1-bit frames in a sequence with the correct timing for each tone. I now am trying to port this to the PC.
Coincidentally I have got an Agfa CRT film recorder (4k) this week, and I see that it can be a good machine to use for this new screen instead of using my Durst Laborator. The Agfa recorder can do color, so it has the disk with the filters and motor, as well as other mechanical and electrical parts that can be kept and I can have use for.
I think my 8k screen has just arrived the country and I should get it next week finally.
 

Niebieski

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Hi everyone! Like everyone else here, I've stumbled upon this idea and I'm very impressed to see all the work y'all have put into this. I want to build a set up myself!

I've reached out to Sumaopai on AliExpress and was informed that current tariffs have made the LCD + driver boards either too expensive (he says 254% increase) or unavailable for purchase. He told me to check back in June to see if the US and China can settle a trade agreement. He also told me there is no "universal" driver boards because each LCD factory mates panels to boards, so you can't swap plug and play.

What did y'all pay for your LCD's + drivers?
Right now, my price (if allowed to buy) would be $230 for 7.1 inch 10k LCD with driver board.

I initially had the idea of simply using a resin printer, skipping the need for an enlarger. It handles all the light source needs, and would only need the addition of another fresnel lens (as converging lens) and a large format lens (I've bought a 180mm Schneider Componon). However, it would seem it's too good to be true because the main board for the resin printer only accepts a USB input, and from that is expecting a .CTB file which is an encrypted file that resin printers use for all their operations. I was hoping I could just manually "insert" the image I wanted to into the .CTB but alas have not been able to figure out a way to achieve this.

Nonetheless, I would be greatful if someone could help me put together a shopping list of parts needed to build a system of my own. So far I've put together that I need:

1) Mono LCD (7.1" 10k)
2) Corresponding driver board
3) Raspberry pi 4
4) Also another computer?
5) Enlarger

My use case is slightly different, and simpler than y'all's: I don't need shades of grey. My images are dithered, so I need maximum contrast. I'm also familiar with Image Magick, so stretching (or squeezing?) the image to fit on the LCD should be straightforward. The last unusual requirement is that I'm aiming for absolute sharpness. That is, I actually *want* to see each and every individual pixel on my print (because the dithering is very precise).

Resin printer in question is an Anycubuc Photon Mono 4 Ultra. Chosen because it has the smallest pixels of any resin printer available, and they are square. 17um*17um. "9k" mono LCD at 7 inches (9024x5120). All the other printers have higher "K" but I noticed that the pixel density height is the same or less, but the width is increased and pixels are rectangular which increases the pixel count. For my use, I need maximum density of smallest pixels.

Even if unable to help, I still want to say thank you to every single person who posted here, it's incredible what y'all have done here, makes me want to get back in a darkroom!
 

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calebarchie

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I see...
I tried single exposures with my mobile app first but found out that I had little control over the contrast curve. I made a calibrator that allows me to adjust each new material and expose the image using several 1-bit frames in a sequence with the correct timing for each tone. I now am trying to port this to the PC.
Coincidentally I have got an Agfa CRT film recorder (4k) this week, and I see that it can be a good machine to use for this new screen instead of using my Durst Laborator. The Agfa recorder can do color, so it has the disk with the filters and motor, as well as other mechanical and electrical parts that can be kept and I can have use for.
I think my 8k screen has just arrived the country and I should get it next week finally.

You are planning to gut a film recorder - a PCR? I recall only the Alto had the attachment for 8x10 film which you could put paper in. Otherwise it would be more work than using your enlarger to jig something up especially for larger stuff.

Hi everyone! Like everyone else here, I've stumbled upon this idea and I'm very impressed to see all the work y'all have put into this. I want to build a set up myself!

I've reached out to Sumaopai on AliExpress and was informed that current tariffs have made the LCD + driver boards either too expensive (he says 254% increase) or unavailable for purchase. He told me to check back in June to see if the US and China can settle a trade agreement. He also told me there is no "universal" driver boards because each LCD factory mates panels to boards, so you can't swap plug and play.

What did y'all pay for your LCD's + drivers?
Right now, my price (if allowed to buy) would be $230 for 7.1 inch 10k LCD with driver board.

I initially had the idea of simply using a resin printer, skipping the need for an enlarger. It handles all the light source needs, and would only need the addition of another fresnel lens (as converging lens) and a large format lens (I've bought a 180mm Schneider Componon). However, it would seem it's too good to be true because the main board for the resin printer only accepts a USB input, and from that is expecting a .CTB file which is an encrypted file that resin printers use for all their operations. I was hoping I could just manually "insert" the image I wanted to into the .CTB but alas have not been able to figure out a way to achieve this.

Nonetheless, I would be greatful if someone could help me put together a shopping list of parts needed to build a system of my own. So far I've put together that I need:

1) Mono LCD (7.1" 10k)
2) Corresponding driver board
3) Raspberry pi 4
4) Also another computer?
5) Enlarger

My use case is slightly different, and simpler than y'all's: I don't need shades of grey. My images are dithered, so I need maximum contrast. I'm also familiar with Image Magick, so stretching (or squeezing?) the image to fit on the LCD should be straightforward. The last unusual requirement is that I'm aiming for absolute sharpness. That is, I actually *want* to see each and every individual pixel on my print (because the dithering is very precise).

Resin printer in question is an Anycubuc Photon Mono 4 Ultra. Chosen because it has the smallest pixels of any resin printer available, and they are square. 17um*17um. "9k" mono LCD at 7 inches (9024x5120). All the other printers have higher "K" but I noticed that the pixel density height is the same or less, but the width is increased and pixels are rectangular which increases the pixel count. For my use, I need maximum density of smallest pixels.

Even if unable to help, I still want to say thank you to every single person who posted here, it's incredible what y'all have done here, makes me want to get back in a darkroom!

Create a print-ready file through the Anycubic slicer (with as few layers as possible) then open that in UVTools to modify and inject your own bitmaps.

 

Niebieski

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You are planning to gut a film recorder - a PCR? I recall only the Alto had the attachment for 8x10 film which you could put paper in. Otherwise it would be more work than using your enlarger to jig something up especially for larger stuff.



Create a print-ready file through the Anycubic slicer (with as few layers as possible) then open that in UVTools to modify and inject your own bitmaps.


Thank you, this seems to work!

Albeit, it's very slow to process the image and very slow to run the print file. I wonder if it's a hardware limitation on the printer.

The rep for Sumaopai told me resin printers use microcontrollers instead of mini computers with drivers which might be why it's so slow.

Just got in my lens and a pair of right angle glass prisms to point the image projection down (while keeping the printer upright). I'm going to 3d print a jig to hold the lens and prisms in alignment. The motion system for the resin printer can act as a fine focus adjustment.
 

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AndrewBurns

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Hey I've asked Sumopai but while I wait for there response I thought I might as well ask here too. I've just got around to hooking up my 10.1" 8k LCD screen + HDMI adapter from them to a raspberry pi 4 running the stock Pi OS and I'm just getting a blank screen, also there's an LED on the HDMI board that is just blinking constantly, and I'm not sure if that's normal or an indication of an error?

I tried adding the config for this screen shared earlier in this thread to the config.txt file on the SD card but no luck. Does anybody have a config.txt file that they have working on a raspberry pi 4 with this screen?

When Sumopai shipped the screen to me they also sent me a picture of it working with my name drawn on it, so I'm sure it would work if I could get the config correct, but whatever I'm doing right now clearly isn't working.
 

Graham06

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Hey I've asked Sumopai but while I wait for there response I thought I might as well ask here too. I've just got around to hooking up my 10.1" 8k LCD screen + HDMI adapter from them to a raspberry pi 4 running the stock Pi OS and I'm just getting a blank screen, also there's an LED on the HDMI board that is just blinking constantly, and I'm not sure if that's normal or an indication of an error?

I tried adding the config for this screen shared earlier in this thread to the config.txt file on the SD card but no luck. Does anybody have a config.txt file that they have working on a raspberry pi 4 with this screen?

When Sumopai shipped the screen to me they also sent me a picture of it working with my name drawn on it, so I'm sure it would work if I could get the config correct, but whatever I'm doing right now clearly isn't working.
I have a 10.1" 8k screen and the driver board has two leds that are on and steady when it is working. I posted my config in #286 in this thread. When I was getting my setting right I think I had an image of some sort most of the time, but also nothing at all sometimes. My cheap pc came with windows 10 so I am using that. I remember the first power cable I used was usbc to usbc, and it didnt work. I tried powerin from a regular usb plug at the back of the pc and that worked.

I hate futzing with config settings. best of luck getting things working
 

AndrewBurns

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I have a 10.1" 8k screen and the driver board has two leds that are on and steady when it is working. I posted my config in #286 in this thread. When I was getting my setting right I think I had an image of some sort most of the time, but also nothing at all sometimes. My cheap pc came with windows 10 so I am using that. I remember the first power cable I used was usbc to usbc, and it didnt work. I tried powerin from a regular usb plug at the back of the pc and that worked.

I hate futzing with config settings. best of luck getting things working

Thanks, yeah the issue is that I'm trying to drive the LCD screen with a Raspberry Pi 4 and it's being more obtuse about settings. I didn't have any of these issues with the 13.7" LCD I've been using for contact printing, and I think the difference there is that the company I bought that one from (not Sumopai) programmed the HDMI converter with the correct information about the display, and so the computer just auto-detects the correct settings. It seems that Sumopai has just loaded garbage generic settings onto their HDMI converter and so the Raspberry Pi is unable to automatically configure the display correctly, and also I don't know what the correct config is so I can't force it to use the right values either.
 

keesbran

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Thanks, yeah the issue is that I'm trying to drive the LCD screen with a Raspberry Pi 4 and it's being more obtuse about settings. I didn't have any of these issues with the 13.7" LCD I've been using for contact printing, and I think the difference there is that the company I bought that one from (not Sumopai) programmed the HDMI converter with the correct information about the display, and so the computer just auto-detects the correct settings. It seems that Sumopai has just loaded garbage generic settings onto their HDMI converter and so the Raspberry Pi is unable to automatically configure the display correctly, and also I don't know what the correct config is so I can't force it to use the right values either.

Same problem here. With the Sumaopai config.txt for this screen on a rpi4, when starting up the screen shows a narrow white band first and then a 'squeezed' raspberry pi splash screen and after some time the screen blacks out. Any suggestions? I also tried adding video=HDMI-A-1:2560x4320@23 to cmdline.txt. The 223 or @23D which I also tested for the framerate that should be 23Hz. Is that correct?

My name on the protective sheet on the screen is written there by Sumaopai and comes with video of the screen in working condition sent at the moment of shipping.
 

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Graham06

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Same problem here. With the Sumaopai config.txt for this screen on a rpi4, when starting up the screen shows a narrow white band first and then a 'squeezed' raspberry pi splash screen and after some time the screen blacks out. Any suggestions? I also tried adding video=HDMI-A-1:2560x4320@23 to cmdline.txt. The 223 or @23D which I also tested for the framerate that should be 23Hz. Is that correct?

My name on the protective sheet on the screen is written there by Sumaopai and comes with video of the screen in working condition sent at the moment of shipping.
Your name on the screen is a fraud protection thing that is good for both you and the seller. I haven't taken the films off of mine yet, I just removed the name with some alcohol and a soft cloth. All my calibration so far is with the screens on, and the results are fine, so I'm leaving them. I may find I'll need better contrast with 1 bit black and white dithered pixels for photogravure plates.

First step is to show you have good power. I think USB-C has some negotiation before the host decides to put 5v down some line or other, and the driver card might not do that negotiation, which is why the USB-C port on my graphics card didn't work. I don't remember if I got no LEDs or just one or the flashing thing like Andrew. Do you get two steady LEDs, and they flash when you lose the image, or just two steady leds? I think you are ahead of Andrew.

The next step is to find a good config. It's a bit more complicated than resolution and frame rate. You're going to have to learn about front porch, back porch, horizontal sync, vertical sync etc. from flying electron beam days If you have a bad config, you'll have pixels in the fly-back portion or the image in the wrong place etc. I suspect you have a good config.

A squashed splash is 'by design'. this is a mono screen, and the r, g and b parts of a regular color screen each contribute one grey pixel. the Pi is treating the screen as color, which is normal. You have to make an image that puts data in the r,g and b parts (explained elsewhere in this thread)

I wonder if you are losing your image when the screensaver blanks the screen. That will save you from image burn-in problems (which are real for these screens) Perhaps try configure a longer screen saver time. If that's the case you have a good config.

I have a second monitor in my setup that I use to control things, and I have made the cursor huge in the Windows accesability settings, but the mono screen is still too awkward to use to drive the display program @avandesande made.

I remember I had 3 frame rates that worked for my card. you could try one-up and one-down
 

keesbran

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Your name on the screen is a fraud protection thing that is good for both you and the seller. I haven't taken the films off of mine yet, I just removed the name with some alcohol and a soft cloth. All my calibration so far is with the screens on, and the results are fine, so I'm leaving them. I may find I'll need better contrast with 1 bit black and white dithered pixels for photogravure plates.

First step is to show you have good power. I think USB-C has some negotiation before the host decides to put 5v down some line or other, and the driver card might not do that negotiation, which is why the USB-C port on my graphics card didn't work. I don't remember if I got no LEDs or just one or the flashing thing like Andrew. Do you get two steady LEDs, and they flash when you lose the image, or just two steady leds? I think you are ahead of Andrew.

The next step is to find a good config. It's a bit more complicated than resolution and frame rate. You're going to have to learn about front porch, back porch, horizontal sync, vertical sync etc. from flying electron beam days If you have a bad config, you'll have pixels in the fly-back portion or the image in the wrong place etc. I suspect you have a good config.

A squashed splash is 'by design'. this is a mono screen, and the r, g and b parts of a regular color screen each contribute one grey pixel. the Pi is treating the screen as color, which is normal. You have to make an image that puts data in the r,g and b parts (explained elsewhere in this thread)

I wonder if you are losing your image when the screensaver blanks the screen. That will save you from image burn-in problems (which are real for these screens) Perhaps try configure a longer screen saver time. If that's the case you have a good config.

I have a second monitor in my setup that I use to control things, and I have made the cursor huge in the Windows accesability settings, but the mono screen is still too awkward to use to drive the display program @avandesande made.

I remember I had 3 frame rates that worked for my card. you could try one-up and one-down

I don't think there's a screen saver kicking in. I'm checking what is going on with a virtual screen (vncViewer) on my macbook pro. This works with the monochrome screen not attached but 'greys out' with the advised config.txt and the 8k screen attached. I could check with my screen directly attached to the second rpi4 hdmi port. Am I right that you only had succes with this screen using a windows computer? I want to nail this down to a raspberry pi 4 that is should work as Sumaopai says. Who actually has a monochrome screen working with a rpi 4 or 5 and what screen and settings did you us? If so do you want to exchange settings and configs?

I have two leds steady burning on the hdmi board.

Whe using wlr-randr I get this output for the hdmi port with the 8k screen:

keesbran@rpi-vier:~ $ wlr-randr
HDMI-A-1 "Chimei Innolux Corporation 0x6301 (HDMI-A-1)"
Physical size: 330x180 mm
Enabled: yes
Modes:
640x480 px, 59.939999 Hz
640x480 px, 60.000000 Hz
720x480 px, 59.939999 Hz
720x480 px, 59.939999 Hz
720x480 px, 60.000000 Hz
720x480 px, 60.000000 Hz (current)
Position: 0,0
Transform: normal
Scale: 1.000000



When trying to set the right resolution with wlr-randr I get this error:

keesbran@rpi-vier:~ $ wlr-randr --output HDMI-A-1 --custom-mode 2560x4320@23
failed to apply configuration

This is with the standard rpi4 config.txt

When rebooted with the Sumaopai config.txt I get:

keesbran@rpi-vier:~ $ wlr-randr
failed to connect to display

and

keesbran@rpi-vier:~ $ wlr-randr --output HDMI-A-1 --custom-mode 2560x4320@23
failed to connect to display



I'll try up and down settings later.

I am not a programmer so this is all trial and error based on searches and posts from this forum and other sources.

Kees
 
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Graham06

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Thanks, yeah the issue is that I'm trying to drive the LCD screen with a Raspberry Pi 4 and it's being more obtuse about settings. I didn't have any of these issues with the 13.7" LCD I've been using for contact printing, and I think the difference there is that the company I bought that one from (not Sumopai) programmed the HDMI converter with the correct information about the display, and so the computer just auto-detects the correct settings. It seems that Sumopai has just loaded garbage generic settings onto their HDMI converter and so the Raspberry Pi is unable to automatically configure the display correctly, and also I don't know what the correct config is so I can't force it to use the right values either.
Someone else in this thread found a program that programs the auto-detect settings, which you could try. I think the driver card is not sophisticated, probably just a 5v line with a usbc shaped plug and no pre-programmed config. I suspect Sumaopai is just Peter Su, who is super helpful with what he knows, but isn't a deep electronics expert. The settings posted by others work for them, but I had to tweak them for my setup. I remember I initially found a config that was steady but was a few pixels short of full resolution. I think you need to get steady leds before you mess with configs but I'm not an expert or even experienced with a Pi
 

keesbran

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also there's an LED on the HDMI board that is just blinking constantly, and I'm not sure if that's normal or an indication of an error?

Which one is blinking? The one near the usb C or near the HDMI plug?
 
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koraks

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I think USB-C has some negotiation before the host decides to put 5v down some line or other

Nope, a USB-PD supply will put 5V on VUSB by default if no PD-capable device is present. For higher voltages PD-style negotiation needs to take place on the CC lines (DP and DN can be involved too). So if the board is supposed to run on 5V, there's no special magic needed on the USB connection.
 

AndrewBurns

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Someone else in this thread found a program that programs the auto-detect settings, which you could try. I think the driver card is not sophisticated, probably just a 5v line with a usbc shaped plug and no pre-programmed config. I suspect Sumaopai is just Peter Su, who is super helpful with what he knows, but isn't a deep electronics expert. The settings posted by others work for them, but I had to tweak them for my setup. I remember I initially found a config that was steady but was a few pixels short of full resolution. I think you need to get steady leds before you mess with configs but I'm not an expert or even experienced with a Pi

If you have a config that works on a raspberry pi for you could you please share it? Because like Kees I'm still not convinced that anybody has it working with a standard Raspberry Pi OS installation. On Windows yes I'm sure it can work, my desktop PC has a very old Nvidia graphics card and I was using that last night to see if I could drive the screen, I didn't get it working perfectly but it was displaying more correctly than I ever got the Pi to show.

Also Sumopai has a Raspberry Pi image that they say works with the screen, it's for using the screen as part of a 'nanodlp' type 3D printer. I tried this as well and I'm not sure if it worked or not because it seems that OS isn't a full featured GUI desktop which I want for my application.

The issue I'm having is that modern versions of the Raspberry Pi OS use a graphics driver called KMS, which apparently ignores all of the configuration settings for the display in config.txt and attempts to read an EDID from the display to configure it. This fails because the HDMI converter has not been programmed with correct settings. This is why the display might appear to work initially during boot and then go black before getting to the desktop, because this is when the KMS driver takes over.

It seems that if I had a correct EDID file for the display then I could force KMS to use this file and that should work, however I don't have one and they seem extremely difficult to manually generate. The easiest way to do it is to get the screen to work on another computer and then save the EDID file that does work. I'm currently attempting to do this with my desktop PC and the Nvidia control panel, however I have an old version which seems very buggy.

If anybody in this thread has the 10.1" 8k screen working on a windows PC with an Nvidia graphics card, could you please use the Nvidia control panel program to save your EDID file and then share it here? There are instructions about how to do this here:

 
OP
OP

avandesande

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Peter sent me a OS image for raspberry pi for the 16k screen. I wouldn't be surprised if he can send one to you for the 8k.
 

Graham06

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Am I right that you only had succes with this screen using a windows computer?
Only because I only tried Windows10 and don't have a Pi 4. I think a bunch of people have things working with a Pi. I posted the settings that worked for me in post #286 in this thread. The numbers in the screenshot translate to values in the config file. I chose hardware and configurations that let me copy know working things as much as possible, but I don't see anything fundamentally wrong with your setup.
 

Graham06

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If anybody in this thread has the 10.1" 8k screen working on a windows PC with an Nvidia graphics card, could you please use the Nvidia control panel program to save your EDID file and then share it here? There are instructions about how to do this here:
I have this configuration. Will try in a bit.

Someone posted their config.txt here: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/diy-31-megapixel-enlarger.197305/post-2751103 I think I found how to interpret the hdmi_timings line (didn't save where)
 

AndrewBurns

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He's easy to contact on Aliexpress chat. The translation software works really well.
Yeah ok I've been talking to him but it hasn't really helped yet. He did send me a link to a Pi image for the screen but I don't believe it included a desktop GUI as I think it was specifically for use in a 3D printer which isn't what I'm looking for.
 

AndrewBurns

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Well I managed to get the screen working properly on my desktop PC, I've attached the HDMI settings that worked for me and an EDID file I generated with them (which are quite different to what other people have posted in this thread, so I'm not sure why those didn't work for me and these ones did). Unfortunately I still haven't managed to get the pi to work even with the EDID file, and even more unfortunately I've managed to brick my laptop in the process by mangling the display drivers to the point that the LCD refuses to show anything and so I can't get into it.
 

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Graham06

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I have this configuration. Will try in a bit.

Someone posted their config.txt here: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/diy-31-megapixel-enlarger.197305/post-2751103 I think I found how to interpret the hdmi_timings line (didn't save where)
[I realised that the edid data I posted in this message is probably useless. I never to my knowledge wrote EDID info to my card, I just made the custom resolution I posted earlier. the initial display I got when I first brought it up was either not working at all or not syncing or shifted over into the flyback portion. I forget which. I was afraid of the EDID path]


My nvidia control panel didn't have a Workstation pane so I asked chatgpt to make me something
I used https://base64.guru/converter/encode with the default settings to encode the file produced. I have a nvidia rtx3050 card and and 8k 10.1" display. think my exact model is posted earlier.

I haven't tested this at all beyond giving it a cursory glance and running it

<#
.SYNOPSIS
Exports EDID blobs for all connected monitors to .bin files.

.DESCRIPTION
This script enumerates the registry under HKLM:\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Enum\DISPLAY,
reads the EDID REG_BINARY value under each instance's Device Parameters subkey,
and writes the bytes to a file named <VendorProduct>-<InstanceID>.bin.

.EXAMPLE
PS C:\> .\Export-EdidToBin.ps1
Saved EDID for ACR056B_4&3968765c&0&UID50531072 → ACR056B_4&3968765c&0&UID50531072.bin
#>

# Define the base registry path where monitor entries live
$baseKey = 'HKLM:\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Enum\DISPLAY'

# Enumerate each monitor vendor/product key
Get-ChildItem -Path $baseKey | ForEach-Object {
$vendorKey = $_
# Enumerate each instance under that key
Get-ChildItem -Path $vendorKey.PSPath | ForEach-Object {
$instanceKey = $_
# Construct the Device Parameters path
$paramsPath = Join-Path $instanceKey.PSPath 'Device Parameters'
try {
# Attempt to read the EDID binary value
$edidBytes = (Get-ItemProperty -Path $paramsPath -Name EDID -ErrorAction Stop).EDID
if ($edidBytes -is [byte[]] -and $edidBytes.Length -gt 0) {
# Create a filename from the registry key names
$fileName = "{0}_{1}.bin" -f $vendorKey.PSChildName, $instanceKey.PSChildName
# Write the byte array to disk
[System.IO.File]::WriteAllBytes($fileName, $edidBytes)
Write-Host "Saved EDID for $($vendorKey.PSChildName)\$($instanceKey.PSChildName) → $fileName"
}
} catch {
# Skip keys without an EDID value
}
}
}


--
AP///////wANrgFjAAAAAAAfAQOAIRJ4AgAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAAAA/gBMQ0QKICAgICAgICAgAAAADwAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADwAKICAgICAgICAgICAgAAAA/gAgWkUwOTlEQi0wM0EKASM=
--
 
Last edited:

Graham06

Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2006
Messages
125
Format
Medium Format
Well I managed to get the screen working properly on my desktop PC, I've attached the HDMI settings that worked for me and an EDID file I generated with them (which are quite different to what other people have posted in this thread, so I'm not sure why those didn't work for me and these ones did). Unfortunately I still haven't managed to get the pi to work even with the EDID file, and even more unfortunately I've managed to brick my laptop in the process by mangling the display drivers to the point that the LCD refuses to show anything and so I can't get into it.

Ugh. Being a pioneer costs time and money. Did you write edid info to the wrong display? You could perhaps attach another monitor or log in blind and run a repair ( assuming you figure it out ) or enable ssh or something.
I wonder if windows still has the C$ smb shares enabled by default. you could copy in diagnostic programs
 

AndrewBurns

Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2019
Messages
197
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
Format
35mm
Ugh. Being a pioneer costs time and money. Did you write edid info to the wrong display? You could perhaps attach another monitor or log in blind and run a repair ( assuming you figure it out ) or enable ssh or something.
I wonder if windows still has the C$ smb shares enabled by default. you could copy in diagnostic programs

Bingo, accidentally wrote my 10.1" display edid to the laptop display which blanked it. Unfortunately the laptop appears to have bitlocker on the drive and I have no idea what the recovery key is, and without that I can't log in using safe mode or even completely wipe the machine and reinstall windows. Very annoying, I'll probably have to take it somewhere to recover it as I don't have the time or the skills to do it myself at this point.
 
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