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DISCONTINUED KODAK (Chemistry products)

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The 5 gal size is the regular size. -- as it says on the package 5 gal of working solution. the smaller bag is the size of the 1 liter bags of developer and such.

We just think that all of the smaller and larger packaging is being deleted in favor of a standard size for liquids (16oz.) and a standard size of dry chemistry. Everything that does not fit within these sizes is being deleted. As some of the dry chemistry does not come in what looks now to be the standard size, it is being dropped. I am wondering at this point if things like Selectol-soft may in fact be repackaged into the larger size before all is said and done here. rather than drop it all together.
 
computers to the home with their amazingly easy advanced uses for ordinary non-IT people.

Even 20 years ago, what keen amateur would have anticipated such things as the demise of Kodachrome, the closure of Agfa, and the availability of top analague equipment for a few $ on something called Ebay. :smile:.

Your second statement - who indeed would have imagined all this - certainly not me.

As for the first statement - I'm still waiting for the mythical day when computers are easy for people like me to use!

Steve
 
There is a photo shop here in town that has some 2007 vintage Sepia Toner (Bleach and redevelop type) for about 3 bucks a packet. I know where I am going to go drop 30.00 (or more if Donna is not with me) tomorrow. :smile:
 
And I just bought my first bag of Microdol to try out. Now I don't even want to use it, what if I like it???
 
Yeah, the sepia II kits were great.... I've just bought 6 more to add to the 3 or 4 I have at home and should be good to go for a long while.... That said, Freestyle has a bunch of alternative kodak chemicals with similar names and effects.

Well, the sepia toner kits sucks for me. I'd better get shopping.

When it's all said and done, it's not the end of the world... My guess is, the formulary will produce kits aswell, and with the fact Freestyle has similar items from alternate suppliers, we have options.
 
It's not so much "using Sistan as Photo-Flo" as "if you use Sistan as a preservative, which already has a surfactant, you don't need Photo-Flo." 25 ml concentrate and add water to make 1 l.

There are some uses for Photo-Flo other than as a final rinse where Sistan would not be a substitute, for instance adding it to film developer for tray development or using it in an emulsion to promote even coating.

Good point. I also noticed that a print treated in Sistan spots much easier, because the surface absorbs the spotting dye much better.
 
Still a bit shocked about Microdol-X, especially since thanks to Photo Engineer figured out what the X does. Going to have to start stocking that one up, yeah, I know Perceptol and D-25/23 will get close, but something about the X...

Why support a discontinued product? This only kills the next one. Switch to a different developer now!
 
David (or other moderator) and dr5:

If possible, it would avoid future confusion if the link to the pdf could be added to dr5's 1st post in the thread.

Oh, and thanks to dr5 for opening the thread in the first place.

Matt
 
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I drove across town and bought 10 bottles of KRST last night. Can never be too sure..allowance gone!!!..Evan Clarke

Evan:

I'm assuming that you are just being extra careful, because there is no indication that Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner (KRST) is affected by this announcement.

Matt
 
I'm assuming that you are just being extra careful, because there is no indication that Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner (KRST) is affected by this announcement.

Who said a response needed to be rational and fact based? When I read the discontinuance notice for HC110 developer/replenisher I drove across town and bought 50 bottles of a very good single malt, just in case ...

Lee
 
Who said a response needed to be rational and fact based? When I read the discontinuance notice for HC110 developer/replenisher I drove across town and bought 50 bottles of a very good single malt, just in case ...

Lee

Seems a rational response to me.

Matt
 
Seems a rational response to me.

Matt
Perhaps at first glance, as they're about the same color. But now I can't find Laphroaig in the Massive Dev Chart, and none of my graduates are marked in wee drams. It also appears that it's difficult to do stand development, so I'll have to resort to intermittently falling down agitation.

Lee
 
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Shelf Life?

OK...So now that yet more Kodak products are being yanked off the shelf, before I go out and “stock pile” some of the items I use… anyone have an idea how long the products would last if not opened?

Also, how best to store them (again unopened packages).

I would think that dry powdered chemicals (unopened) would last a long, long timeÂ… but how long?

2-3 years, or longer,... 6 months or shorter? How long?

Anyone have an idea?

Thanks in advance
 
Dry powdered chemicals unopened can last pretty much indefinitely on the shelf, I would think, maybe with a few exceptions like glycin, but I don't think any of these discontinued products contain glycin. Just keep them dry.
 
Just bought ten envelopes of Kodak Sepia II toner... Should last until I figure out how to make thiocarbamide by myself.
 
Thomas, there have been some cases of sepia toner going bad lately and reported here in APUG, but I also know a couple of cases from other hobbyists. Actually, the second bag (toner, sodium sulfide) seems to be the problem. The first one, containing the bleach ingredients, seems to keep very well. Of course, YCMV.
 
Thiocarbamide (thiourea) is available from many photo chemical supply companies as are good toners. Don't give up and don't try to make thiourea yourself.

PE
 
I bought 5 packets of the original Kodak Sepia Toner today. I also snatched two bottles of Sepia spottone.. not sure why.
 
Fair warning. I know thiourea is nasty... I guess what I really wanted to say was to learn how to make thiocarbamide toner on my own.
Daniel Lin was very kind to send me a recipe eons ago, and I'll make good use of it some day. I'm sure it's not that difficult. Some people liken it to being easier than making a salad vinaigrette... :D

Thiocarbamide (thiourea) is available from many photo chemical supply companies as are good toners. Don't give up and don't try to make thiourea yourself.

PE
 
Fair warning. I know thiourea is nasty... I guess what I really wanted to say was to learn how to make thiocarbamide toner on my own.
Daniel Lin was very kind to send me a recipe eons ago, and I'll make good use of it some day. I'm sure it's not that difficult. Some people liken it to being easier than making a salad vinaigrette... :D

Why not just use polysulfide toner instead?
 
Not sure, Ralph. I like how the highlights look with partial bleach back and thiocarbamide. Then there's an option of washing and using selenium as a second toner for added effect in midtones and shadows.

I like split toning, if it's done subtly and in moderation. Especially the highlights really come alive.
 
You can always use Bergs toners. I've always had real good luck with them.
 
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