Diffusion Transfer Printing ("Polaroid" peel-apart) recipes

[alecrmyers]

Here's a result with the same paper and a developer with only TBHQ.View attachment 417063

A lot of people with Polaroid 8x10 processors are going to be beating down your door soon.

 

[Qebs]

Hey,
I used two layers of I believe is 3 mil tape.
Darkest Blacks I have seen so far. Just great density.
I'm very happy!
The only downsides are that there is this yellow cast that wasn't there with Ilford Paper, and the biggest issue is that now that the rails are taller, there seems to be developer left behind.

It seems the rollers can't roll off the excess developer.
I tried wiping the print but the image smeared.
Edit: Oh, I guess I haven't tried a stripping layer, whoops!

 

[Qebs]

Here's the recipe for this receiver (I'm calling it Rx-01)

5mL Ludox HS-30 (+ 20 mL water, see below)
5mL 1% Sodium Sulfide
1mL 5% Nickel Acetate
1mL 20% Zinc Acetate (+ 5mL water, see below)
10% Polysorbate 20 (1-2 drops)

In a small beaker under continuous stirring, add 5mL Ludox to 20mL water. After 30 seconds, add 5mL 1% Na2S. After 30 seconds, add 1mL 5% Ni(Ace), drop by drop. The solution will turn dark grey or black. Immediately add 1mL 20% Zn(Ace) in 5mL water. Add 1-2 drops 10% polysorbate 20. Coat solution onto baryta paper (Adox Art Baryta) with 10µm coater bar.

When dry, coat layer of 2% Gum Arabic with 50µm coater bar.

Please use proper PPE + ventilation and dispose of all chemicals properly.

Hey analogwisdom, when you did research to develop Rx-01, did you find any information leading you to think this receiver will help prevent fading? Is this a coaterless formula?
Thanks, Kevin.

 

[alecrmyers]

Just as a matter of historical record, coated Polaroid products were based around metal in silica coatings with hydroquinone/thiosulphate chemistry, and the coaterless ones used a layer of cellulose acetate containing nucleation sites with DEHA/uracil type chemistry.

 

[Qebs]

I am finding better density like Alec said with higher rails, 6mil.
But now I'm getting excess developer that 3% Gum Arabic is not getting rid of, and I'm dying to find a way to not have to soak the prints in water.
I'm going to hire someone to electronically slow the speed of the laminator such that prints gain density.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated

 

[analogwisdom]

Same paper as my last couple of posts, with a new (TBHQ + Dimezone S + Uracil + AEEA) developer

Photo paper negative @ 32 iso

 

[analogwisdom]

Same paper, another developer (DEHA + AEEA)

Negative @ 64 iso

edit: the paper uses cupric sulfide as the nucleating agent