Ha, ha, Raghu, that 1.3g of carbonate in bath A make you curious? To be honest, back in the day, I never tried to develop film test just in bath A to see how much image is formed there. I did it a few years back with Barry Thornton's bath A (you see, our age is making us wiser). It was almost impossible to see any image formed on the film.Hi Goran, very interesting stuff! Does any developing happen in the first bath? What is the duration of each bath?
Henning,
Thank you very much for your explanation of the strong S-shaped curve of the Agfa aerial films. I nearly wrote earlier that there seemed to be a lot of detail in the extreme highlights and shadows on Aviphot 200 developed in MDS-1 when exposed at EI 400 but at that time I thought that ,with some difficulty, darkroom printers could burn in/hold back such detail but now it appears it would be rather hard work. However, from the scan I put up in post 9, it's not really a problem with electronic processing provided all the detail on the negative can be captured in the first place, so I will limit my claim for EI=400 to the this case.
BTW, I wonder if the the claim of 181 lppm for Aviphot 200 compares well with other 400 ISO films, I did not find any result in your older posts.
Ha, ha, Raghu, that 1.3g of carbonate in bath A make you curious? To be honest, back in the day, I never tried to develop film test just in bath A to see how much image is formed there. I did it a few years back with Barry Thornton's bath A (you see, our age is making us wiser). It was almost impossible to see any image formed on the film.
As for timing, 4-5 min in each bath is enough.
Interestingly all that crazy amount of Carbonate in Bath B did not fry highlights at all. Most likely, because of very limited amount of developing substances absorbed by the emulsion. Later when I was making big enlargements (condenser enlarger, Forte Bromophort normal paper) I had to run some negatives thru chromium intensifier bath to get better highlights density.
If anybody is interested to see final results: https://www.blurb.com/b/10245390-restoran-fdu
From what I have seen (by my own trials) with a few 2 bath formulas, it's very hard to reach even "box speed" with just borax in bath B. Even with Kodalk in it, it's challenging.
Back in the day, with Bauman 2 bath, the greatest increase in speed was with daylight lit scenes, much more pronounced than I ever experienced with normal films and processing.
For my project I was treating all my films as 800ei
I am not sure how informative it is about @Alan Johnson 's original question, but here is ADOX Scala 50/HR-50 (Agfa Aviphot 80/Rollei Retro 80S)
The grain is extremely fine and I think the pictorial contrast came out quite well. I don't know how much ADOX's Speed Boost has to do with that.
ADOX HR-50 / SCALA 50 is not identical to Aviphot Pan 80. If you compare them side-by-side - test under identical conditions - you will find
- higher effective sensitivity with the ADOX
- different characteristic curves
- smoother tonality and a more linear tonal separation.
As the ISO norm is on the "optimistic side" and gives a N+1 development in Zone system terms, most BW films really benefit from being exposed with an EI of 2/3 to 1 stop lower than the official ISO rating. At least if you want optimal shadow detail and best overall tonality.
And this rule is also valid for HR-50. When I am using it as a negative film, I mostly use it with an EI of 25/15° in ADOX FX-39 II, or with an EI of 32/16° in ADOX HR DEV.
And this film really shines in reversal development with EI 50/18° in the ADOX SCALA reversal kit. Dream combination: Extremely fine grain, excellent sharpness and resolution, outstanding highlight detail for a reversal film, very nice tonality.
Best regards,
Henning
As the ISO norm is on the "optimistic side" and gives a N+1 development in Zone system terms, most BW films really benefit from being exposed with an EI of 2/3 to 1 stop lower than the official ISO rating. At least if you want optimal shadow detail and best overall tonality.
And this rule is also valid for HR-50. When I am using it as a negative film, I mostly use it with an EI of 25/15° in ADOX FX-39 II, or with an EI of 32/16° in ADOX HR DEV.
Thank you Raghu! I did fix the link. Hope it will work now? Please let me know if you have any issues with it?
Thank you Relistan!I’m using Sodium carbonate and sulfite in my bath B. Diafine originally used trisodium phosphate, which is even stronger. You should be fine with very high pH in the second bath. Some sulfite to control grain is the solution I used. 2B-1 is more properly a divided developer because some development happens in bath A, but not very much. I think the higher pH in B makes it easier to hit box speed in a two bath.
Also, some great photos in your book!
Thank you Relistan!
Looking at your recipe 2B-1, B bath looks good to me. For sure you do not need 100g of carbonate in B as in Bauman recipe. I liked Vestal's approach to two bath with adding equal amount of sulfite to both baths.
Speed Boost = Pre-flash?
So I guess that means that RPX 25 (also Aviphot 80) is actually rated at a realistic speed for normal use!
Speed Boost = Pre-flash?
Great info. Henning. Thanks!Well, with very much 'good will' and if you are willing to accept less shadow detail........
If you want better tonality and more 'normal' shadow detail as with standard films you have to give this film significantly more light. Reason see below:
Exactly.
In aerial photography the light sensitivity rating is based on the evaluation of density at Zone III. Not at Zone I as in normal pictorial photography.
Therefore aerial films have about two stops less light sensitivity / speed when used as normal pictorial film "on the ground".
The Agfa aerial films have also a very strong S-shaped characteristic curve. The reason for that and the different ISO rating in aerial photography is the following:
When you take photographs from 1000m, 2000m or higher down on the ground you have almost no shadows (at least no deep shadows) and also no pronounced highlights. What is dominating are the middle tones. Therefore aerial films must have an excellent separation of the middle tones, and therefore they have this strong S-shape curve with steep slope of the curve in the middle tones, and a flattening curve in the highlight tones.
If you want shadow detail with the Agfa aerial films you have to give them about two stops more exposure, so expose Aviphot Pan 200 with an EI of 50/18°.
As an example, here the results of Aviphot Pan 200, exposed at EI 40/17° and developed in DD-X. Target was a cc which works well in optical printing with an enlarger which has a mix-box and a double condensor:
Zone I: 0.07 logD
II: 0.19
III: 0.38
IV: 0.62
V: 0.74
VI: 0.96
VII: 1.10
VIII: 1.18
IX: 1.25
X: 1.30
You see at first sight that the density values of Zone I to III are still a bit low, VI to VII is a bit too high, and from VIII to X you see the typical flattening of the curve which is characteristic for these films.
No matter what developer I have used, I have never got a complete linear characteristic curve with these films. The cc always had a more or less S-shaped form.
Correct. The problem is the misleading marketing for these films, as the speed rating is the aerial rating, but not that for pictorial photography on the ground. So most photographers significantly underexpose the film (two stops when using it as Superpan 200, and even three when using it as Retro 400S, Infrared 400 and other repackaged versions with the wrong ISO 400 rating) and push process it. Resulting in even higher contrast.
Best regards,
Henning
I understand that Henning said that a good EI to shoot the Rollei Aviphot 200 based films is 50. He said the Adox HR-50 with the HR-50 developer was good at EI 32. That's not that much different. One of the reasons I use these films is for use with an IR filter. My impression is that the IR sensitivity of the HR-50 is almost as good as the Aviphot 200 stuff. The HR-50 has finer grain and perhaps, with the special developer, the shadow detail is not much less than Super Pan 200. It makes me think maybe I should just use the HR-50 and forget the Rollei stuff. One limitation of the HR-50 is that it is not available so far in as many film formats as the Aviphot 200 emulsions. But the grain of the HR-50 is so fine this may be less of an issue than with typical films.
I understand that Henning said that a good EI to shoot the Rollei Aviphot 200 based films is 50. He said the Adox HR-50 with the HR-50 developer was good at EI 32. That's not that much different.
One of the reasons I use these films is for use with an IR filter. My impression is that the IR sensitivity of the HR-50 is almost as good as the Aviphot 200 stuff.
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