Canon F1n - How do I use meter to get correct

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MattKing

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If the camera is an F1n, which was designed to take a PX 625, there is no direct replacement. You have to deal with either camera modifications, adapters that convert both the size and voltage of current silver oxide batteries, or a number of approaches that use the zinc air cells used in hearing aids.
Confusingly, if the camera is an F1N (aka new F1), the intended 6 volt battery is still available.
 
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received_425910040940999.jpeg canon f1 new. Please correct me if I am wrong.
 

AgX

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In this case it takes the current PX28 types.

They are available in
Silver-Oxide
Alkaline
Lithium

You can use either.
 
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Awesome stuff.
Just may play with the colour film some more lol +f1
 

cuthbert

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Here's some examples I was getting first one is the same for most of the roll.
2nd one towards end of roll.
Is this just caused by under exposure.
View attachment 160257 View attachment 160258

One thing you have to keep in mind with Canons of this era is that they have partial metering, which is a sort of "fat" spotmeter: the lightmeter read the light in the square inside the viewfinder, if you are taking a pic of a bright object on a dark background you should take to reads and make the average if they are both important for your composition.
 
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Cheers will keep that in mind also.
Only second roll through so still have a long way to go lol.
 

cuthbert

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Cheers will keep that in mind also.
Only second roll through so still have a long way to go lol.

BTW the F-1 N has different screens that change the metering pattern, which screen have you?

The first letter indicated the metering pattern: S for Spot, P for Partial, A for Average centered.

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/canonf1n/metering/screens/allscreens.htm

If you meter with the spot the highlights you'll get the rest of the pic underexposed and viceversa.
 
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BTW the F-1 N has different screens that change the metering pattern, which screen have you?

The first letter indicated the metering pattern: S for Spot, P for Partial, A for Average centered.
h
IMG_20160708_191032.jpg
 

cuthbert

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It's average metered, standard screen, it was stock with the AE prism but as I see I think you have the standard prism that should come with the PE.

We can rule out battery problems or a specific metering pattern that might be non intuitive, my recommendation is to change film and try something more forgiving as Portra or Fujipro.
 

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Yes you have the Canon F1N not the F1n you have indicated in your title of this post. A few changes were made on the new model such as the battery. The finders can be used on all 3 models but the winders are different in the first 2. I have never owned the N model of F1 but I think that the newer model you did not have remove the baseplate of it before installing the power winder. I maybe wrong about that but I have been wrong in the past ;o)
 
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tokam

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The F1N is mechanically a very different camera to the F1/F1n. Canon reworked most of the internals to include such features as silicon photocell metering and an electronically controlled shutter amongst many other component redesigns. Finders / winders / focussing screens are not interchangeable between F1/F1n and the newer F1N.

With regards to your inconsistent exposures, do you have another accurate exposure meter or camera that you can use to compare meter readings with? A few readings of a blank wall under various lighting conditions will identify any variability in the metering of your F1N.

Keep with it. It may be a bit of a weighty beast but you have probably the best FD body that Canon built.
 

Dennis S

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(Finders / winders / focussing screens are not interchangeable between F1/F1n and the newer F1N.)

I am sure that the finders are interchangeable with all 3 models of the F1. When I had one many years ago I had 3 different finders and I am sure I did not have to look that hard before finding ones that fit. Maybe I just got lucky with my selection. Also I never changed my focussing screens so I don't know if there is a difference.
 
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We can rule out battery problems or a specific metering pattern that might be non intuitive, my recommendation is to change film and try something more forgiving as Portra or Fujipro.
Cheers for that. Operator error and film contribution compounding it.
Will be on the look out for the other film :smile:
 

cuthbert

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Cheers for that. Operator error and film contribution compounding it.
Will be on the look out for the other film :smile:

this is an exposure error with a spottie:

2ltly0.jpg


it happened with E6 which is very intolerant to overexposure...all the other 37 shots were perfectly fine.

ztaplv.jpg


15s7jv6.jpg


6sxdhk.jpg
 
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Yes you have the Canon F1N not the F1n you have indicated in your title of this post.
th not have remove the baseplate of it before installing the power winder. I maybe wrong about that but I have been wrong in the past ;o)
Did not realise there was a difference with the caps. Apologies.
You have to remove base plate screws and the winder connects directly to the film winder and roll to remove this exposes the film chamber to light.
I not know too much about the winder other then looks to be the external power operated one. I not have the base plate screws because of this so currently have to have grip installed.
Any ideas how I could fix ?? :smile:
 
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Brother will have a light meter. May pick it up when I see him next lol.

Keep with it. It may be a bit of a weighty beast but you have probably the best FD body that Canon built.

Lol yeah beast is a good description....
IMG_20160709_103337.jpg
 

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That's not too bad considering you have the winder attached. I have just weighed my F1-N with the non-AE finder and a Canon FD 35-105 F3.5 lens without motor / winder at 1.496 Kg. I don't have a winder and that probably contributes 600-700g to the total weight.

The sports photographers who use to schlep more than one body with the fast telephoto lenses, think 300mm / 400mm f2.8 lenses would have been toting quite a load in their day. Having said that, the current range of high-end d*g*t*l SLR's with fast tele's won't be much lighter and those AF lenses have motors in them.
 
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Yeah I would like to drop the winder off for some trips but not have the base screw caps. Any way I can fix this as I think I would be able to find any now and winder only serves as a grip as currently have no power for it.
 

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I have both styles of F-1. Bought my first New F-1 a couple of years ago after many years using the original F-1. I figured I just had to have one to see why so many people thought it was such a great camera. And I've come to understand -- mostly because it is built to an unbelievably rugged standard. Even more so than the original, which I would have found hard to believe until I owned a New model.

Anyway, shortly after buying the camera, I bought a motor drive for it. I was surprised by the number of port screws I had to remove to mount the motor drive. It was like four or something? Sorry, the motor is mounted to my F-1 and there's film in it, so I can't dismount it to count. I do have the screws put away somewhere inside a film canister so I won't lose them though. But given your predicament, should you ever want to dismount your winder to forego the added weight, first go to your local camera shop and ask if they sell "gaffer's tape." They should, if they're a real camera shop. If not, you can find it online. Basically, gaffer's tape is like black masking tape, but better quality than masking tape. So all you have to do is use some gaffer's tape over the holes that are left in the baseplate when you remove the motor or winder. This should block all light and prevent damage to your film. And in the mean time, keep your eyes open on eBay for anyone selling the baseplate port screws you're missing.

As for your exposures -- and wondering if your camera is metering correctly. This is also easy to determine and is something I do whenever I buy a "new" camera. Assuming you have some sunny weather going on, take the camera outside with a lens mounted and point it to a quadrant of the sky away from the sun, where it's a nice, deep blue color. Meter this open blue sky. If your meter is accurate, it should agree exactly with the "Sunny f/16 Rule," which is the shutter speed closest to the reciprocal of the film ISO at f/16. E.g., at ISO 100, this would be 1/125 @ f/16. If your camera's meter is accurate, it will read exactly that value. Chances are very likely, it will. My experiences with the original F-1 are that its meter is very accurate -- always. And I suspect the New F-1's meter will be just as accurate and just as rugged. If, on the odd chance, it is reading a bit off, I'd have a repair tech do a CLA and be done with it.
 
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Cheers for the input.
Was thinking the gaff tape job but thought this may be abit of a Dodge option.
I just may have to do this and keep my eyes open like you suggested.
Could this be attempted in a dark room with no issues?
 
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john 39

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Hi, if you want to keep the camera, it may be worthwhile investing in an adaptor. I have one for my Minolta SRT101 and one for the XD11(7), bit overkill, but I lost one then found it after buying replacement. They can be bought from Small Battery Company, here in the UK, (maybe someone local to you - Japan?) who also supply lots of other rare and obscure batteries - got one for a flash for a Kodak Brownie!! The adaptor allows the use of LR/SR 44 batteries, which are a bit smaller than PX675, and corrects the voltage to give correct exposure.
Just my thoughts, I think I got the info from here a long time ago.
hope it helps
John
 
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Ok gave the sunny f/16 rule a go on ISO 400
Did come out with 1/1000 +-.5f depending on where I was pointing.
So will take this as the light meter is all ok.
Cheers cooltouch :smile:
 

cooltouch

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Cheers for the input.
Was thinking the gaff tape job but thought this may be abit of a Dodge option.
I just may have to do this and keep my eyes open like you suggested.
Could this be attempted in a dark room with no issues?

Yeah, or a changing bag.

Actually, the closest shutter speed to ISO 400 is 1/500, so if your lens is set to f/16, the meter should provide a correct reading at 1/500 second.
 
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Lol let's try that again then lol.
I forgot compensation.
And maybe too close to sun lol
 
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John Koehrer

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Hi, if you want to keep the camera, it may be worthwhile investing in an adaptor. I have one for my Minolta SRT101 and one for the XD11(7), bit overkill, but I lost one then found it after buying replacement. They can be bought from Small Battery Company, here in the UK, (maybe someone local to you - Japan?) who also supply lots of other rare and obscure batteries - got one for a flash for a Kodak Brownie!! The adaptor allows the use of LR/SR 44 batteries, which are a bit smaller than PX675, and corrects the voltage to give correct exposure.
Just my thoughts, I think I got the info from here a long time ago.
hope it helps
John

His uses the PX28
 
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